simple monkey

Hello USMB, I've posted a little here before, and now i have a problem and am seeking help. I drive an 89 RX hatch with the following mods: wrx TMIC wrx TD04-13L 280zx brown top injectors 3" exhaust from the turbo back 5 lug with ground control coilovers turbo timer I was driving my car normally today, didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I was stopped at a light, then went it was my turn to go, about half way through the interection my car makes a boom noise then dies. Its made this boom before when off throttle (it runs a tad rich) but never on throttle like this. The car does not start now, it turns over but doesn't start. I checked all the fuses, fusable links, wasn't throwing any codes, no leaking of any fluid, and nothing is changed physically under the hood. It has been cold lately, but i wait til the car is fully warm before i decide to drive it. So what is wrong with my car? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance. -Victor

the only answer you're going to get here is "spfi is better than carbs, blah blah blah." a friend of mine recently had gsx600 throttle bodies on his 2.0 rabbit, so the carbs off of a 600 or bigger should be fine on an ea81. there are many sets of these on eBay motors, normally at a very decent price. i would look other places for inspiration such as volkswagen and porsche forums. these carbs are for some sort of vw boxer engine. the linkage is the only real difficult part as the manifolds in the picture seem very simple. hope this helps a little, best of luck on your project.

Correct. Most people intall H.I.D. bulbs into the stock housings. Our housings don't have anti-glare shields. Anti-glare sheilds pretty much cover the front half of the bulb and refract the light of the relfective part of the housing. This makes the light seem less bright to on coming traffic and create a more controlled beam. These are cheap and simple to obtain, I greatly encourage trying H.I.D.s as I have been interested in them for quite some time. best of luck.

haven't got that far yet, but i'm confident it isn't going to explode tomorrow.

a bypass valve is not completely necessary. i cut out a piece of steel which covers the blow off valve hole on my 02 wrx intercooler. the thing i didn't like about the bypass valve routed back into the intake is that the throttle response wasn't nearly as good as the atmospheric vented bov or running no bov. the open bov made my car run horrible, woudln't idle and ran really rich. no bov isn't as bad for the turbo as people make it sound. i have put about 10k miles on my setup so far with no problems. it depends on what you want.

you don't need/want one.

did not know nickel and molybdenum were good catalysts. i was assuming that aluminum and copper were good for this because they don't oxidize. aluminum is a better conductor than ss, all metals containing iron don't conduct as well as aluminum or copper. any updates on those using the hydrogen on a car?

i'm curious as to why the pdf and the rest of the internet are set on using stainless steel for the plates. wouldn't a more conductive metal such as aluminum or copper do a better job?

ethanol has a higher octane rating than gasoline, so if you have your car tuned for higher octane, adding a few gallons of E-85 to your tank could increase performance. The problem with this is if you ever put low octane back in, it will start pinging/knocking.

there are a few builds with E-85 on www.nasioc.com. E-85 has a differnet stoichometric ratio, its closer to 9:1 instead of 16:1 like gasoline. You also need to redo your fuel system and set it up for a conductive fuel, the rubber would be eaten by the E-85. also, on http://www.turbobricks.com this topic has been covered many times. hope that helps.

if you are really set on running spfi, why not get the TBI system from an older GM truck and run megasquirt?

i'm lookin for a 16 or so with stretched tires. the 15 looks alright i guess. gold would look much better IMHO.

when i first got her.

rx7 tranny bellhousing has a similar shape to that of an ej series engine, so it should be close to that of an eg33 as well. There is a lot more work that needs to be done with rwd in a subaru tranny, simpy pulling the front cv's isn't good enough.

whoa, i just read this. thanks, it takes a lot of work to make wrx exhaust fit an older soob. its amazing how much the sound changes when you put the muffler section on. i had a neighborhood session with just the downpipe on, sound like a day at the track. I can't say as though i've ever seen your car driving, i've seen it parked a couple times. and why is it so taboo redrilling the holes on the turbo? i've put about 4000 miles on mine so far, and no problems. and as far as underdiff exhaust goes, it would be perfectly fine with closer to stock ride height. my car is sitting on ground control coil-overs as low as they go, and i have a couple inches of clearance, and it doesn't scrape anything anymore. also, my gas mileage is pretty stable at about 26-27 mostly city driving.

Forgot a pic. this is what I did with the throttle cable.

Well, its been a while since I originally posted this. Originally, in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72569&page=2&highlight=td04+drill it was said redrilling the holes on the td04 would mess with the clamping force. But since I basically stole my td04 ($50 with 10k miles on it, perfect condition) i decided to try it out. My friend with the drill press redrilled the holes for me. I don't have any pics of the holes at the moment, it was mostly trial and error of which way to drill the holes. Besides that, everything else was pretty straight forward. The water lines were a little difficult, but my enginuity helped make that easy. The pcv system looks like a cluster-f***, but I hope to put in a catch can soon. As promised, pics. I finally took some more pics and am still in the purusit of the older pics. new engine bay: new downpipe sits in close to the stock position, required some cutting and welding though. the only thing under the hood that really requider modifying was the mount for the throttle cable. So I cut off the stock one and welded on a homemadeone, raised the throttle cable about 2 inches. Hopefully more pics soon.

Well, about 2 weeks ago, I finally put my TD04 into the RX. Ended up using an ebay down pipe and an Ansa Silverline catback for a WRX. It sounds great. pictures later, and maybe more video. enjoy.

Well, about 2 weeks ago, I finally put my TD04 into the RX. Ended up using an ebay down pipe and an Ansa Silverline catback for a WRX. It sounds great. <object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_c_kfbYBvA&rel=1"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7_c_kfbYBvA&rel=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object> pictures later, and maybe more video. enjoy.

i think the flares would look funny on a subaru. what are the offsets? good wheel fitment will look good, not to much poke but not sunken battleship either.

i like the way you think.

the oil lines bolt up perfectly, but the upper coolant line needs to have longer. it points in a weird direction, sort of out and down. another thing you need to worry about is where the compressor wheel points. the stock turbo points up and the TD04 points in.

well done on the exahust post turbo. while this thread is off topic, will BE/BH legacy front suspension work on our cars (after xt6/legacy knuckles control arms etc) in the front? i know the rear is very similar, but what are the dimensions in the front?

what downpipe did you use in this picture?

so with the holiday season right around the corner, i was looking to swap a td04 onto my rx. i have most of my exhaust figured out, except for the manifold. i know there is the common method people use of welding the new flange on top of the stock one. but in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=72569&page=2&highlight=td04+drill its mentioned that you can just elongate the one hole that is off. has anyone every tried this? its only 1/4" that needs to be drilled or so. looking forward to what you all have to say.