simple monkey

I'm finally looking into upgrading my injectors, but i have a few questions. I've searched and searched, and the 280zx turbo injectors seem to be a good candidate. But, there are none in the local yards, and injectors seem hard to come by. So, as an alternative, i've found that stock volvo injectors come in 2 sizes: 357= the bosch 357 injectors that came stock in the 84-89 b230ft motor 29lb/hr (300cc/min) @ 3bar 804= the bosch 804 injectors that came stock in the 90+ b230ft rated 30lb/hr(310cc/min) @ 3 bar i plan on using an S-AFC or e-manage to tune the bigger injectors, but is there anything else i should have to look out for?

i think if you made some LED tail lights, that'd be cool.

the line coming out of the compressor housing is just fine routed into the wastegate. as long as there is no leak in that hose, it will be fine and will allow the regulated amount of boost from the wastegate (8psi i think?) i run the same thing on my stock turbo. for a line running into the BOV, any vac line will work; i run a T from the same line as the fuel pressure regulator which is right on the intake mani. O. on mine points straight at the ground, no ill affects yet. my factory serivce manual says the vac line for B. goes straight from the brake booster to the engine, does not need a T. but i would feel better if someone confirmed that. F. and G. appear to be the same vaccum nipples on the non-spider manifold, but not sure where those go. wire S. could be a ground since it is black? thats all i got, my fsm doesn't cover the spider manifold. hope that helped some.

you could always swap trannys, but then you would need a bellhousing to match. isn't the 13B tranny similar?

i would suggest reinforcing the rear diff and possibly the tranny tunnel. there is a guy on nasioc who pretty much built a whole rear sub-frame for his wagon. what do you plan on doing with rear wheel drive?

heavy, heavier, and too long. RB26DETT is an inline 6 and cross-breeding is not normally cool, especially with a nissan.

you can run the ground control coilovers on the stock shocks or kyb replacements. the spring diameter is 2.5" which is the same as the rear springs anyway, so you just need to find a tophat for the rear. the front is the same way except you can use your stock tophats. i still have the stock shocks with ground contols on my car, they came from a wrx and they were $50 on ebay. i read a couple posts a while back saying the ebay coilovers weren't that bad.

i've never had problems with the BOV and police. i've actually had one case where the cop liked the sound. how is venting it to the atmosphere rice?

i now run the stock wrx bov to the atmosphere. much better throttle response then recirced back into the intake or running compressor surge. it doesn't run rich either and gets about the same gas mileage.

the stock bypass hose out of a wrx goes in the right direction, but it needs to be extended a little bit and have a 90* elbow. mine looks like this, it went from my 02 WRX TMIC into the "duct B" in the intake snorkel (the cup thing). here's a close up: 0. wrx bypass hose 1. 3/4" PCV pipe, not sure on length 2. 3/4" to 1" pcv coupler 3. 1" to 1 1/2" 90* elbow.

bypass valves and blow off valves add no performance what so ever. they simply vent excess air into the atmosphere or back into the intake.

i would suggest getting the MSD .8 ohm resistor as opposed to any other brand. the MSD one fits perfectly on the MSD coil, where as the other ballast resistor i ended up getting took some custom chaos.

ej22 heads on the ej25 block would yield 11.5:1, and would be a much better set up. the ej25 block will starve for air with the ej18 heads. ej22 heads have much bigger ports and bigger combustion chambers for better performance. if you plan on keeping the ej18 heads, i would suggest putting an ej22 shortblock in there. there are a couple people on nasioc.com who have tried it and liked the results. also, isn't the bore of the ej25 too large for the ej18 heads to fit? i know some of the coolant passages dont match up as well. good luck on the build.

what water injection kit are you using? or are you DIY-ing one?

if i remember correctly, the ej18 intake manifold will not bolt up to the ej22 heads. so, you might need the intake and exhaust manifolds for the ej22. also, i've seen a couple cases where the new engine will be sluggish and not rev as high. so, rallitek makes a piggy-back for running the ej25 on the ej22 or ej18 wiring + ECU, it will probably work in your application at well.

you don't exactly need to do the wire mesh thing. a ways down the road, this will keep pine-needles out of your ducts and such, but a rodent can still chew thru the mesh. it would just be wise to close all the flaps, like the one that leads to the heater core (i had a mouse in mine along with a pound of bird seeds). urban legen- rodents don't like the smell of oleander (a plant). i bought some (don't remember where) and put it in the mole holes outside. no more mole problems. not sure if it works for rats/mice tho. hope that helps.

i would go with the soch ej25 heads. they flow better, and if you want that bump in compression, you can do it 2 ways: 1. cometic head gasket. 2. mill the heads.

that hood-lump looks like it was drawn with a t-square, just like the rest of the car. looks amazing.

it would only be neutered if you put an inline engine in it. well done, is there a reason why you decided on an NA ej25 though? which tranny are you using? curious as i am looking at an ej swap for myself soon enough......

what are you using for an axle-back? i know the downpipes and midpipes from wrx's fit fine, its just the axle-back that gives me problems since oem is over diff and wrx is underdiff......

that also is a very good suggestion. the thing with the ej22 is that it has the same forged crank and rods as the ej22t, but it does not have as thick of cylinder walls as the ej18. it all depends on what you plan on doing.

http://www.nasioc.com has lots of info on this: this link is about a high mileage ej22 that might have a turbo added to it. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1214163&highlight=ej22+block this is about an overseas NA ej20 block which is essentially an ej18. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1152473&highlight=ej22+block i would reccomend following the path of this third link. the guy uses an ej18 block and puts the ej22 heads on it, lowering the compression to 8.5:1 which is very boost friendly. you can put all the ej22 sensors on the ej18 block and you get to keep all your wiring. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1105995&highlight=ej22+block hope that helps.

ej22t block would be worth waiting for, so long that you are planning on running some crazy boost and aiming for high power. there is a guy on http://www.nasioc.com making 291 whp on an open deck block with ej22t internals. open deck blocks hold up to pretty good power. its really your choice as to what you want to do. both will produce good power.

phase 1 ej25 heads would make a huge difference 2 ways: 1. flow much much better. 2. will lower the compression to 9.0:1 (i think, if not its 8.5:1) that new compression ratio is boost friendly, and is streetable without forced induction, the 8.5:1 is very boost friendly. i would look on http://www.nasioc.com/ for more info, this topic has been covered many times. be sure to post your setup when you're done, i for one am very interested as my ea82t likes taking my money. hope that helps. g/l with the build

wrx downpipe and midpipe will work. the downpipe has flanges for a td04 though. as far as the axle back, i'm pretty sure the muffler is too large. so that might not work.