1 Lucky Texan

sounds like a bad headgasket again, maybe due to a clogged radiator - or not. Since there's white vapor out the exhaust (and I bet is smells sweetish - like toasted marshmallows) I bet a cooling system pressure test would fail. the recent overheat event could also be due to a bad or failing fan - but I'd bet the shop already considered that.

Subaru Extra-S is not bad, but any NON-synthetic name brand GL-5 in the spec'ed viscosity should befine . Since the trans and front diff share the lube, it can be tricky at times getting a lube that plays well with the synchros and shifts smooth at all temperatures - seems that with the synthetic formulations, some folks say they get a little synchro clashing because it's TOO slippery.

well, looking more like a bad bulb or wiring issue now - problem didn't follow the relay. I might spring for LEDs if I can find some assurance the DRLs will work.

would you guys change the release and input shaft bearings?

check the wire to the knock sensor - and look at the connector pins to see if one is pushed backwards or corroded.

every ground connection you can find - usually a few near the top of the 'bog bone' pitch stop at the firewall, sometimes some on some 'bosses' cast into the intake manifold. usualy on the fenders, etc. sometimes corrosion 'wicks' down the large battery cable under the insulation - you might check those wires. Honestly, sounds like the battery may be OK. You could check the voltage at the battery while someone else starts the car - probably shouldn't drop below 10 volts. Or, consider having it load tested at the part store - where I live, 3 years is 'old' for a battery but cooler parts of the country can get 6-8 years from a battery here's an example picture;

any signs of wiring damage from rodents or??? also, you could try refreshing some ground connections. Take 'em loose, wire-brush the various surfaces, reconnect and smear with dieletric grease.

all I've done on this continuing problem so far is swap relays (today, I was checking the oil anyway)) I must say, the pins/blades on the relays were corrosion free and looked new!

How old is the battery? MY06 WRX would go into limp mode and code for odd stuff - fixed with a new battery. I THINK, looking back on it, the key was, it would happen immediately at starting - maybe a 'race' condition between the ECU booting up and signals from some sensors still out of range? just a thought.

you could also ask/dig around here;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=12

cool - sounds like you have a plan going forward.

you mention the car had may have had the torque bind when you bought it - is there ANY chance the previous owner swapped the rear diff ? If they did but mismatched the final drive ratio - you need to know that. IF they swapped-in an incorrect rear diff, and now the CENTER diff is destroyed and you install a new, correct for the model, trans - you'll be set-up to destroy it as well.

In a new thread, ask for a shop suggestion near your city - if you're lucky, someone will know of a soob-experienced mechanic.

I recall a guy that had replaced a radiator and a piece of paper or cloth was blocking flow - any chance there was a paper towel or similar used to 'protect' an open hose or other cooling connection and was forgotten? anyway - hope you get it sorted - seems like a leak-down test or a chemical test could be a good next move. Fair is correct though - that chemical test is iffy, I have also read reports of it being a 'false negative'.

I haven't done it, but many folks DIY engine and transmission mounts. The engine mounts and 'dog bone' I think seem fairly easy. Of course, rush is gonna make everything more difficult. Try a search - might even find a video or 2 at youtube. Be careful not to damage the pans if you get a jack under the engines and transmissions - spread the force with some strong wood pieces. There are some aftermarket parts at Amazon , check RockAuto.com as well as on-line dealers like fredbeansparts.com and subarugenuineparts.com . I have also had success in the past (on springs and brake hoses) getting a local dealer to match prices from subarugenuineparts. here's a coupla links to get you started; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/21513-how-replace-motor-mounts.html http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/218642-1997-stuck-motor-mounts.html

It can be tricky to get driveshafts for Soobs, but it has been done - larger cities often have a shop or 2 that can do the work, and I think I have read of at least one shop that does business by mail/shipping. But a low miles, used unit from a junkyard would be my first source i think if I need a drive shaft. The carrier bearing I think you can get. As said above, save the expensive/difficult item for last. if you can't find a DS in Chicago that's in decent condition,shop LKQ or car-part.com for a DS - best if it comes from the southwest somewhere.

might need a flexible borescope or something? probably not coolant in the cylinder - but with lower compression and maybe occasional mis-firing - there 'might' be a slight difference in appearance. have you scanned the ECU for 'pending' codes? maybe there is a re-occurring misfire occasionally. but daveT is right, we're always hopeful we can find some way to exonerate the headgaskets - but we're usually wrong. And repeated overheating will only make it more likely HGs will fail if they haven't already.

Are you second owner? Is it your feeling the car has always done this since you acquired it? (kinda wondering if prev. owner(s) could have run straight water and water pump vanes are eroded-away - hey, anyone?, can the WP impeller be viewed thru the t'stat hole?) http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/45334-here-s-new-one-trashed-water-pump-vanes.html I wonder if Blackstone or Polaris or similar labs could test a fluid sample from your radiator for combustion products - might even be more affordable than 1 hour minimum at a mechanic's shop. kinda wonder what comparing all 6 spark plugs to each might show.

when the car is cool after one of these events, is a radiator hose ever collapsed? Does fluid get pulled back into the radiator from the overflow tank? another way to think of that question - after the car has cooled, AND there is still coolant ion the overflow tank - even a coupla inches - is the level in the radiator up into the neck? Ever any 'whoosh' of air when removing the rad cap? have you looked for buildup of dead bugs/debris in the radiator fins? Any transmission shifting problems? have you check the trans fluid level? (must be checked while idling)? Have you tried turning on the heater full blast during an overheat event? what was the result?

I may be wrong but, the odds there is a problem that ONLY a dealer could diagnose are low. A GOOD independent mechanic can test drive the car easily enough - better if you can take them for a short drive and demonstrate the problem. You'd save a good percentage of money in most cases. The approach should be; " tell me what needs to be done NOW (to avoid major damage or unsafe conditions), what I need to save-up for (fluid changes, new struts, etc.) and what I could just live with (drips, rattles, burned out dash bulbs, radio bad, or ???)" in a new thread, ask for a recommendation of a shop near you and see if someone can suggest a shop. we can't hear the noise, and are throwing out educated guesses - a rattle or knock could be any of dozens of issues.

even Lowe's has a bin for some of that stuff but - you need the same GRADE and that may mean an industrial supply place as mentioned.

hmmmm.... given your other thread, kinda wonder if you may have a severely bad wheel bearing that has affected the tone ring? also, on some cars - low alternator voltage will trigger ABS light before anything else.

from the front? stronger when accelerating? almost seems like engine knock - it would be interesting to see live data, maybe a bad knock sensor has timing messed up - or cylinders are heavily carboned. A tank FULL of high octane gas might be a way to diagnose engine knock.

if the engine jumped time because of chronic abuse, who knows how long the bottom end might last after you invest in the heads? It would suck to have rod-knock show up 3 weeks after getting it done. So you would really need a total rebuild to be confident. pistons, rings, rod and main bearings, etc. I had a similar catastrophic failure on a Honda decades ago. The cylinder walls need to be honed because, when the valve head impacts it, it makes a dent, but also raises a similar volume of metal - like the hole from a meteor with a rim around it. So, after you hone the cylinder down to remove the raised metal, you're left with small 'pits' and that means increased oil usage(but not 'horribly' increadsed). I dunno if the cylinder liners can be replaced...maybe someone here does. but yeah, i applaud your enthusiasm and wish i was as bold about stuff as you seem to be - and at least you're making the effort to discover what;' involved in the endeavor so, after you arm yourself with the knowledge and maybe get some assistance from the Forums and some experienced mechanics you have there local to you - you should be able to do fine. Whether it all comes together on a limited budget - only time will tell.

good question, it didn't come with instructions? I'd expect since it would have new rings and cross-hatch honed cylinder walls so, probably similar break-in procedure as most engines; dino oil, avoid steady rpms, avoid redline, basically, take it easy for a while. I'd consider accelerating the first 2 oil change intervals. But, I admit that's just guesswork on my part.