1 Lucky Texan

first - cars that get low-usage are considered 'severe duty', seals can dry-out, fluids emulsify, rubber ages, etc. . The maintenance schedule has a TIME side as well as mileage and probably several fluids changes have been missed. you really need a timing belt system service. That and most of the other items can easily be DIY or done by an independent mechanic. Some items may just need xtra vigilance. Others you can save up for. any neglected 13 year old car could easily need these or more repairs.

TOO cold is the problem - often can happen if low on refrig. (in homes too), there's a faster/stronger phase-change because - uh - the low-side pressure is too low (I guess?) and the coil will be cold enough to freeze moisture from the air passing thru it.

wouldn't hurt to check the cabin air filter - reduced air flow will exacerbate any freezing problem.

Extra-S or w'ever Subaru gave you is fine for the trans - but of course it won't repair any failed component like the center diff. as a diagnostic experiment - maybe squirt the steering u-joint with some lube - if that problem is better - might be time for a new part there (DO NOT allow the steering wheel to spin when you disconnect that joint - you'll wreck the clockspring cable) torque bind in the manuals is due to the VLSD part in the trans failing to disengage the plates - usually because the special silicone-based fluid has leaked out of it. Sometimes folks report that there's no or 'less' binding until the trans is warmed-up.

steering sounds like the U or 'cardan' joint that is on the steering column. not a good sign that 2 different tires were found on the car - could be the center differential was damaged. The symptom in manual transmissions is often apparent or worse after a brief warm-up. Sometimes seems OK when cold. The 5mt does not like synthetic GL-5 but I don't know about the Lucas additive. Your description of the drained fluid from the trans may also point to the silicone having leaked out of the center diff unit. If the car was driven a lot after that happened - could be the FRONT diff (and the trans) has been poorly lubricated. did I miss it or did you report if the 4 same-size Pirelli's helped at all? you can still scan the ECU for codes and it would probably be a good idea. DOH! - beat by stopping to talk to my boss!

^^^ yep, I have read of attempts to use Jeep/Chrysler/Nissan? bushings and parts from 'universal' bushing kits (Dorman? ) and some folks have found ways to make them work - often involving some delicate surgery with a dremel tool and/or epoxy. Many people can't get close to a good solution. Just seems like a difficult repair.

last time I needed to get something from a local parts store - I discovered 2 of my O'reilly gift cards had expired so, I understand wanting to use them. But, think about buying something at Advance that you wouldn't get from an on-line store. what?, well, in my case, it was a battery.

if the valve heads were banging around in there - probably need some pistons

prices at Amazon will fluctuate - I sometimes use camelcamelcamel to set 'alerts' and it will also show the 'history' of prices. It won't work for items with low sales it seems. Beck-Arnley generally makes good stuff i think. prices at RockAuto seem to range from $29 to $45, you can almost always find a 5% off coupon for them, try to combine items from the same warehouse or shipping can be crazy. For first time users, Advance offers $40 coupons at their website I think?

you could ask in a new thread for an independent mechanic near your city - might save you several hundred dollars.

external leaking? If it's coolant - try using the Subaru Coolant Conditioner - use it only once and only per instructions on the bottle. people report reduced or cured external leaks. oil you may be able to live with if extra vigilant checking the dipstick. You are actually way overdue for the timing belt system to be serviced - it's 105 MONTHS if that occurs before 105K miles. many used cars would need a timing belt - or, the previous owners will claim they did it, and either they lie, or they did belt-only which is not a proper TB system servicing. has the transmission been serviced? the 4EAT is generally robust - many people have them last a VERY long time with just fluid changes and being diligent about same-size tires. 3 drain/fill/drive-a-little fluid change cycles on the trans gets about 85% new fluid if you DIY. if you DO replace the headgaskets, have the heads properly surfaced and strongly consider using multi layer steel gaskets. (turbo motor type) I'm no expert here - but I think the car could give you very good service for a while going forward. It will never be a new car, but it may not be the money pit some other used car would be.

check Amazon? maybe that Febest company offers them - they seem to have decent quality other parts.

^^^ what he said - newer cars climate systems will always use the a/c compressor/evaporator coil to help 'dehumidify' when defrost is selected.

seal looks cracked, but I was more concerned it may be very wobbly or even off-center. It's bearing was the worst one when I did my WRX TB - and there are on-line pics and experiences posted that indicate it is a real weak-spot. well, on the 2.5 DOHC anyway. anyway, hope you get it sorted-out.

does that system have a toothed idler? is it in good shape? sometimes things fail - maybe the tensioner is now bad or maybe a mount bolt has cracked???? have you done a tooth count?

dunno about any off-road comparisons, but you might take a look at Pirelli Cinturato . For cheaper/'value' tires, look at Kumho. tirerack has a tire selection guide that might be worth a look too. GG and other members here that experience snow should have good suggestions I'd think.

wheel bearing certainly possible and sometimes tricky to diagnose on Soobs - you could try to measure the temp at the hub with an infrared remote thermometer after a highway run, compare to the other side, if consistently 30-40-50 degs F hotter, suspect bearing (possibly dragging brake caliper too) getting the rear of the ground and feeling of the coil spring and/or using a mechanics stethoscope on the hub while turning the wheel by hand may reveal some roughness or vibration - compare to other side. Lift the wheel in the 6 oclock to 12 oclock direction - should be no movement - again, compare sides.

brake pedal switch ?

kinda wondering about a battery cable issue(corrosion can 'wick' down under the insulation). - though successful jump-starting seems to exonerate them? Still, measuring the voltage drop across the battery cable - or even feeling if it gets hot might be a good idea.

stock intake IS cold air - changes to it 'may' make more noise, but can also cause issues with the air intake sensor. exhaust 'may' get you a pony or 2, unlikely more than that, possible zero power increase - soobs breathe well from the factory, BUT a cheap way to get more sound is a muffler delete with a tip turn-down. check youtube for examples. rims are pricey, but you get to personalize the car and, if lighter, free-up some power for acceleration. perrin crank pulley is under $120 or so, much lighter than stock. Someday, the car will need a clutch - save your money for a little lighter flywheel. look for a local SCCA chapter, they run autox es in parking lots and you only run in your class against the clock - fun and not too expensive (gas, extra tire and brake wear) usually just have to volunteer to help run events. Sometimes you can get access to used parts from other enthusiasts and some help upgrading your car - in addition to increased driving skill.

CVT may be more easily damaged if ANY internal parts are still moving - so 'maybe?' the system purposely prevents shifting for a few xtra milliseconds?

might need to find stiffer springs - if original, your struts and springs are likely very tired - particularly on a postal vehicle. Brake upgrade might be worth investigating too. if you only have a short block - wonder how much you're gonna have to spend on heads and timing gear? seems like a very big project

pretend to shop for a car and test drive another one to confirm "they all do that" before a service writer tells you "they all do that"

but you CAN make it more fun to throw around corners - suspension and braking upgrades will do that. and shedding mass is good - lighter rims, lightweight crank pulley, lightweight flywheel - all helps it spin-up quicker and accelerate a little faster. take out the rear seat if you never have passengers, leave the spare tire and tools at home if you can always call for help. 11lbs mass = ~1 hp 4 pounds off rotating mass = ~ 1 hp, it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow.

you might consider researching where the Subaru dealerships are along the route.