1 Lucky Texan

so, you actually detect a vacuum when you remove the gas cap? seems like an evap hose may be clogged and, until the purge solenoid opens, you have low fuel supply. I suppose hooking a fuel pressure gauge up that you could monitor while driving might prove that theory. probably need to find the evap DRain hose. On many systems, there is a hose attached to a 2-way valve. It lets air out of the tank when fueling (or maybe when pressure builds up as gas warms?), but is supposed to let air in as fuel is used-up. probably a hose about the size of your thumb, coming from the charcoal canister area. Some cars like Mazdas attract spiders that clog evap hoses. i have heard of mud from off-roading clogging the hose. I suppose the valve could be bad......

a 5spd from a junkyard (car-part.com or LKQ ?) could be good option, but, must be the same final drive ratio as the present trans. Might find one with substantially lower miles. also, the drain plug does have a magnet. If there is more than about 1/4-1/2 teaspoon of sludge on it - or, even worse, 'chunks' - that might be a sign that a new trans is the best option.

how's the fluid level? suppose a previous owner put the wrong fluid in? make sure it has the proper level of GL-5 non-synthetic. however - it does seem like you'd have more issues than just reverse if there were a bad lube issue.

symptoms aren't a 100% match for a cap/o-ring problem but, I personally feel everyone that wants maximum reliability from a 2nd gen legacy vehicle should inspect the cap on the fuel pump assembly. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/130624-2000-outback-fuel-pump-assembly-metal-cap-is-broken/

Fairtax suggested colant temp sensor - can cause good performance when cool/bad when warm with poor economy when warm - as he said - try it. Even if it doesn't help, you got new sensor and it's one less thing to suspect. there are ways to get more data; elm327 BT adaptor with a smartphone with the Torque app, a laptop with a cable and the FreeSSM program or similar, some OBD scanners can get more data. you might check this thread out; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/39426-freessm-complete-access-your-ecm-tcu.html

well, hope it actually helps you out! good luck!

that sucks - didn't know that. still, unit from a wreck might be the way to go. check LKQ or car-part.com . Chances are good that wrecked car started fine - might even get a starter with a lot lower miles than yours.

oh, that's cool. confirm the tires are all the same size. If you see mixed tires on a Soob awd, that's a bad sign. Take alook under the hood of any autotrans car and make certain the FWD fuse slot is empty - then, take it for tight circles on dry pavement - should be able to idle, or just above idle make circles with no jerking/binding. On 5 spds, do that test after the trans is warmed-up. torque bind in the sticks is often worse/present only after a highway run - at first. easy for folks to confuse fluids - especially on the autos - front diff should be GL-5, trans fluid needs to be clean of course. a/c problems are often just leaky o-rings at suction and discharge on the comp. sometimes the schrader valves at the ports. Noisy power steering is often a bad o-ring on the adapter on top of the pump - bubbles in the fluid tank. easy fix. Odd overheating 'could' be headgaskets - that usually piushes fluid into the overflow with combustion gas. But, aftermarket thermostats cause problems too.

if you can get one from a wreck (needs to be same transmission as your car) it likely would be OK - then, rebuild yours when you have time. so, I guess you're pursuing this because it DOES click, but isn't always starting the car? - if so, yeah, from what I always read, that's most likely the plunger/contacts - some people have had to go deeper and clean carbon from the commutator (where the brushes ride)

you may be right if that's one of the Mitsubishi planetary starters - I guess I'm just not sure what you have there. (my 03 has denso, my 06 WRX has Mitsu.) I have seen youtube videos on the plunger/contact rebuild. here's a guide (you can find others) with some pics; http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

check ebay

maybe get a helper to turn the key while you feel and listen for clicking in the starter - bad contacts are a well-known issue. that is why i also suggested whacking the starter next time it fails.

check the wiring and hoses again. a coupla those codes are IACV-related I think. almost seems like a bad/missing ground under the hood too. Clear the codes and see if all 3 come back immediately. I searched google " subaru P0443 " (and the other numbers - looks like you could read-up a little on those codes and how other folks dealt with them. could be 2 problems I guess.

consider a pre-purchase inspection - might get something to bargain with, or, bad enough news to dodge a bullet!

after I got mine, they seemed a little - dunno, 'crunchy' inside - I dribbled a drop of oil into them and they are fine once you get used to them. hope it helps a little

when it fails - does it click when you turn to start?

if you are really gonna have gear in the vehicle (and people?) you might consider holding out for an H6 . (though, no 5spds in those - some people prefer auto for 'soft' roading don't they?) aside from that, those 2.5s after about 01-02 or so got mostly external HG problems, so, i might avoid that 2000. BUT, if you can positively confirm that one of those older 2.5s was PROPERLY rebuilt with MLS gaskets by good shop - that would be fine. consider also, you might find a craiglist car with an overheated engine, then have a shop rebuild a junkyard engine to put in it - more hassle and probably not a bargain - but a nice reliable rig.

very frustrating - fingers crossed found code points to a good possibility. some older soobs have had crank position sensors flake out when warm. But they would still crank. i read one STI owner that found some 'black stuff' on his crank sensor, cleaned it off, and the car started and ran better. one guy found the small wire at the starter loose - just needed tightening. lots of things to check. Do you hear a click when trying to start?

...and doesn't set a CEL code. or, have you scanned for a pending code?

do you hear a click? If you don't hear a click - then likely it's the safety start feature or an ignition switch or similar. if you DO hear a click, could be the contacts in the solenoid on the starter. That's why whacking the starter sometimes works - the plunger shifts to a non-corroded bit of the contacts and you get enough current to spin the starter. No need to get a new starter - rebuild kits are common for the inside of the solenoid. but an 05 is a little early - ...?, I guess it could depend on if it was regular driven lots of short trips ...maybe just weak parts... who knows?

do a search at their site? I've seen other styles - might try thumbwheel and thumb wheel as 2 words.

pretty sure I got my set from Amazon - they are like the ones pictured. I don't think they are 'necessary' but for a lot of those threads on the sparkplug just after loosening, or just before tightening - they give you the extra leverage to spin by finger - the ratcheting is very 'fine' in that there are a lot of clicks in a revolution if that makes sense. I used the 3/8 drive the most I think.so, maybe just buy that one ?

for part of the 'process' on my H6, I found these thumbwheel ratchets useful;

flooding or a sensor failing at temp - not sure either of those fit with prior symptoms, especially if it isn't cranking at all. Possible crank or cam position sensor - often though, those would set a code......? OH - one thing!, try whacking the starter - light/medium taps with a hammer or a decent whack with a chunk of 2x4. But, if you don't hear any clicking when trying to start - can't be the solenoid contacts. push-pull various battery cables and wire harnesses and re-try ? just throwing out wild ideas here.

loose or corroded ground wire? jiggle keys slap steering column slam doors? I dunno, the brake pedal thing is looking like a coincidence now but, it may mean there is an intermittent connection in the dash/console/ignition switch area....? do you have 12V+ at the battery?