1 Lucky Texan

Did a coupla small things to my WRX; used the Turtle Wax kit to clear the headlight lenses, - worked well, I'm happy with the results. I also had to use a Dorman product to tether my gas cap since the plastic stock tether broke. It wasn't a perfect solution, but cheaper that a new OEM unit. the wire is quite tight and didn't spin well. I used some pliers to 'recurve' the tips of the wire outwards a little to prevent dragging.

also, the 3K limit seems like 'limp' mode, but, no codes? could this car have had the ECU re-flashed? it's possible codes have been removed form the reportable list. I had to kill about 14 codes in my WRX relATED to my frozen-shut aircut valves. Intake runners (tumble generator valves) can stick and put the car into limp mode for instance - likely other stuff does as well. but, weird that there are no codes. just for S & G, try doing a code erase/ECU reset next time this happens. See if the car behaves better/differently.

some older soobs would have crank sensors flake-out at temp.... if it was fuel, why not cyl 4 misfire too? no oil on the plug boots?

^^^^ good post can you swap the wires to cyls 1 & 2 ? what brand wires are they?

could you do a vacuum test before and after it fails? maybe exhaust is getting blocked? also, try some carb cleaner or Ether Start in the intake when it's failing - if it tries to run, that would 'prove' fuel starvation I think?

I would absolutely insist on seeing the entire procedure AND be present when it is unsealed later-on.

does yours get 12V ?

I think there's a comparison with the cam sensor(s) so, maybe legit? It was the only code and I knew I had an aftermarket (Beck/Arnley) CPS so - swapping it seemed logical in this instance. Put in the CPS today (has some trouble with a dropped bolt that tripled the expected amount of time to swap) and the car started! problem is, I should have tried it with the old sensor - didn't. old sensor measures the same as the new one (around 2K ohms) - leading me to wonder if that circuit has a problem elsewhere? and, if it quits again with the same code - I'll know to start looking somewhere else I guess. Wonder what bulkhead connector that CPS harness goes to?

sometimes you can find good info at cars101.com . They have some areas there for the security system (like registering a remote with the car) and changing cabin airfilters, and looking up recalls, etc.

WRX started after work, then stalled after 2 seconds. CEL on. , cranks, but won't fire. co worker had Torque app and his BT adapter. one code only, P0335 (crank sensor) some time back, I replaced the CPS while chasing another problem. I found my original one and hope to swap it in tomorrow at morning break. fingers crossed it's the sensor and not some melted wiring or ??? somewhere else. (brutally hot recently)

they last a long time, but not forever. 2 years is too often for a daily driver. track, offroad car maybe...... but , what?, 8-10 years for the rest of us - sooner if in harsh conditions? or upgrade to stainless braided (goodridge, StopTech - make sure they are DOT approved)

knock sensor for certain. - cheap and fairly easy. do you still have your old wires? you could try them. If it helps, don't put the OMS back on.

what kind of wires and plugs were used? soobs are picky about that. you should consider taking it back to the shop - most have a warranty on work for a few weeks. if you are not confident with them, try asking for a shop near your city in a new thread.

possibly losing pressure in the fuel rails. leaky injector or problem with the fuel pump or ???? nect time you 'feel' like it would take a long time to start - do this; cycle the key from OFF to ON (NOT Start), then wait 5 seconds, the OFF-ON, wait, then OFF-ON, wait. maybe one or 2 more times for insurance, then Start. each time you cycle to ON, the fuel pump runs for a coupla seconds (you may be able to hear it - it's under the right side of the rear seat). So, doing the ON-WAIT routine should pressure-up the fuel rails. If it starts, you know what system is causing the problem.

you seem to be fighting 2 or more problems but, I'd suggest you search ' cap.o-ring ' problem and pull the fuel pump for inspection. leak-down test may also be called for to help confirm bad headgasket. It's important on Subarus to use an OEM style thermostat so, if the cooling system was serviced before the overheating problem began, maybe check the t'stat?

worth taking a close look around in case a mounting bolt for an idler pulley is loose.

if you're unsure about precisely when the timing belt WAS changed, now's a good time to address that if the pulley comes off anyway.

was a new tensionner installed? also, if either the old or new tensioner were re-compressed too quicly, they can be destroyed inside. They mush be compressed EXTREMELY SLOWLY - over many minutes. also, do any of the pulleys wobble?

look for ANY signs the trans pan is dented. does the dash light flash when you start the car? does the fluid look bad? correct level (must be checked while idling)

any concern introducing copper could cause electrolysis ? I'd probably buy the correct part too. Check online dealers like subarupartsforyou, Fred Beans, subarugenuineparts ,etc. maybe ask local dealer to match price?

as said, not uncommon on older cars. It's 2-pieces, married with a ring of rubber. when it fails, it wobbles and can even become separated. It MUST be changed.

on gen 2s , I think the booster itself is in the cargo area behind some trim panel on the left side. did you install tint? some say that will interfere with reception. And I suppose a scratch could mess-up the antenna but - not sure. And yes, any new head unit has to power that remote booster. you might dig around at www.opposedforces.com and find it on a diagram.

should have returned the car for repair or FULL refund at the first CEL or thrown belt. I have 06 WRX and it hasn't been too bad - yet.

look around here;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/cooling_system/

well, they are hall-effect or similar devices - they respond to metallic tabs passing by. I don't know what they would measure with an ohmmeter - maybe someone with more experience will know. I guess you're confident the crank/cam timing is good?