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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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it's possible the previous owner or the dealership put something in it. maybe a different shop or radiator shop could confirm there was enough contaminate to reduce coolant flow. It may also be possible that the bad HG led to combustion products getting into the coolant, forming some kind of emulsion. there can be certain issues with mixing dexcool with other coolants that might cause a 'goo' to form. I'm not certain on those conditions though. generally, the burden of proof would be on them - particularly if you have plenty of documentation on the car's maintenance. I don't know how hard you want to fight the warranty company on this, but I feel you should try. If they continue to balk, tell them you'd be willing to pay for parts if they will pay for the labor??? good luck.
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well,, fluid won't repair a bad gear or clutch - but many people have had bad experiences with gears clashing when using synthetic GL-5 in the trans. It's too slick to get the right speed on the synchros. But, it DOES seem more like you have a clutch problem so, maybe the above suggestion is worth pursuing.
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does the vapor out the back smell like toasted marshmallows? If not - it isn't coolant. checking shaft play and other tests should be done on the turbo. maybe measuring oil pressure too? If you absolutely need to know if combustion products are in the coolant, start with a leakdown test and maybe also send a fluid sample to Polaris or Blackstone labs?
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oh, only because many people report synchro problems/clashing. The trans has to share fluid with the diff so, maybe compromises were made to make everything work with gl-5? seems synthetic gl-5 may not let synchors reach the best speed for shifting smoothly. big thread about trans oil at nasioc - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674 , but, just use either Extra-S or non-synth gear oil. maybe go thru tthat thread if you have shifting issues. no fluid will fix a broken transmission - but you can find fluids that will help with some shifting problems.
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did my 06 WRX last year - it was - 'interesting'. only 57K miles I think. toothed idler was loose and a little wobbly, another idler was loose. A little oil on top of the tensioner, but same say that's normal. Belt looked great but that's common. usually an idler seizes or dumps its bearings. Dunno how much longer it would have lasted, but glad I did it.
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last I checked into it, Extra-S HAS begun being offered in liter bottles from Subaru. Still, it may not be commonly available yet at dealers. Some folks have been able to take their own containers and get them filled at a local dealer from their big bucket. I'd first find out if getting it in EITHER form was an option from my dealer - if it is, ask them to match online prices. If that doesn't wrk, get it from online. many people just use name-brand gear oil. NON-synthetic GL-5 in the manual trans, either in the rear diff.
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weird - make sure the breather hoses are routed correctly, make sure you haven't lost the seal/o-ring on the plastic oil filler screw-plug. I once read of an STI that had PCV/breather hoses misrouted after a swap/some work and it affected the oil pressure reading. you may need to arrange to monitor fuel pressure and maybe some other parameters while driving. There are also ways to log with a laptop and rom raider.
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what is the tooth count for that engine? (44.5 x 42 ???) tooth count doesn't care if the belt is marked (or even on backwards) or if the tensioner pin has been pulled. Just put the cam marks near the notch on the back cover with the crank sprocket near its mark. Count the teeth from the crank pulley's mark to the cam's mark.