1 Lucky Texan

you will get a piston at TDC/valves closed every 180* turn in the firing order. 1-3-2-4 also, there are half-a-dozen youtube videos for Subaru leak down tests.

good idea about having the bank go to bat for you. sometimes, you just look someone in the eye and say, "How would YOU feel if this were happening to YOU?" (or, your wife, daughter, mother as appropriate) also, phrases like; "What am I supposed to say to my coworkers and family when they ask about how i was treated by...the bank, the warranty company, etc. and, "what kind of review am I supposed to post to Yelp or Angie's list about my treatment?" etc. also, asking to speak to someone's supervisor can help - particularly if you get the feeling someone is just 'parroting' their training or may not have any authority to negotiate or waive some rule. Always be polite, but be persistent. do not 'threaten' to sue. But, let them know when you are getting extremely frustrated, then, just politely say; "do you have a contact for your legal department? Please give it to me."

it's possible the previous owner or the dealership put something in it. maybe a different shop or radiator shop could confirm there was enough contaminate to reduce coolant flow. It may also be possible that the bad HG led to combustion products getting into the coolant, forming some kind of emulsion. there can be certain issues with mixing dexcool with other coolants that might cause a 'goo' to form. I'm not certain on those conditions though. generally, the burden of proof would be on them - particularly if you have plenty of documentation on the car's maintenance. I don't know how hard you want to fight the warranty company on this, but I feel you should try. If they continue to balk, tell them you'd be willing to pay for parts if they will pay for the labor??? good luck.

seems a little like a bad CV joint. is the vibration felt "in the car" or "in the steering wheel" ? might also confirm no brakes are dragging.

well, yeah, I 'assumed' he listed the car correctly but....good point!

accessory belt - those bearings go bad on that belt's idler and tensioner pulleys..

well,, fluid won't repair a bad gear or clutch - but many people have had bad experiences with gears clashing when using synthetic GL-5 in the trans. It's too slick to get the right speed on the synchros. But, it DOES seem more like you have a clutch problem so, maybe the above suggestion is worth pursuing.

did it do this on the test drive? did you put synthetic gl-5 in the trans? any issues with other gears? (I had to experiment with slight seat adjustments when I first got my WRX to smooth out shifting.)

does the vapor out the back smell like toasted marshmallows? If not - it isn't coolant. checking shaft play and other tests should be done on the turbo. maybe measuring oil pressure too? If you absolutely need to know if combustion products are in the coolant, start with a leakdown test and maybe also send a fluid sample to Polaris or Blackstone labs?

hmmm, never knew that. I guess my 06 WRX is made that way too? anyway, we clearly need some Subaru Oil Conditioner to help seal those leaks.

they created ANOTHER (2 actually) seam that can leak oil? and 0w oil too right? ugh

it's possible she learned on an older car - I didn't have new cars when I first began driving (I am 60, first 2 cars I drove 'as mine' were 3 on the tree, one was a 1950 Chevy) also, she may have grew up on a farm driving farm equipment. still, though - surprising.

make sure the system isn't sucking in air - probably easy fix if so. check in the reservoir while idling;

there may be a vacuum test that would help determine if there's exhaust blockage. if it wasn't done, the car is way overdue for a timing belt service - 105 MONTHS or 105K. maybe it slipped a tooth already?

prev. owner probably removed them.

interesting.... seems like in late 2014 or so, they switched suppliers and went from Showa to an Idemitsu fluid. not sure if it matters much.

oh, only because many people report synchro problems/clashing. The trans has to share fluid with the diff so, maybe compromises were made to make everything work with gl-5? seems synthetic gl-5 may not let synchors reach the best speed for shifting smoothly. big thread about trans oil at nasioc - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674 , but, just use either Extra-S or non-synth gear oil. maybe go thru tthat thread if you have shifting issues. no fluid will fix a broken transmission - but you can find fluids that will help with some shifting problems.

is coolant level dropping? does the vapor smell sweet? could possibly be the seals on the turbo bearing - would expect bluish color though if oil......?

did my 06 WRX last year - it was - 'interesting'. only 57K miles I think. toothed idler was loose and a little wobbly, another idler was loose. A little oil on top of the tensioner, but same say that's normal. Belt looked great but that's common. usually an idler seizes or dumps its bearings. Dunno how much longer it would have lasted, but glad I did it.

how new? They got a timing chain in 2012 I think.

DAMN! (get that timing gear changed asap - way past 105 months)

wow, do you have a warranty for that fuel pump? I think you listed it was changed already.

last I checked into it, Extra-S HAS begun being offered in liter bottles from Subaru. Still, it may not be commonly available yet at dealers. Some folks have been able to take their own containers and get them filled at a local dealer from their big bucket. I'd first find out if getting it in EITHER form was an option from my dealer - if it is, ask them to match online prices. If that doesn't wrk, get it from online. many people just use name-brand gear oil. NON-synthetic GL-5 in the manual trans, either in the rear diff.

weird - make sure the breather hoses are routed correctly, make sure you haven't lost the seal/o-ring on the plastic oil filler screw-plug. I once read of an STI that had PCV/breather hoses misrouted after a swap/some work and it affected the oil pressure reading. you may need to arrange to monitor fuel pressure and maybe some other parameters while driving. There are also ways to log with a laptop and rom raider.

what is the tooth count for that engine? (44.5 x 42 ???) tooth count doesn't care if the belt is marked (or even on backwards) or if the tensioner pin has been pulled. Just put the cam marks near the notch on the back cover with the crank sprocket near its mark. Count the teeth from the crank pulley's mark to the cam's mark.