1 Lucky Texan

I did a tooth COUNT as well on my WRX.

sometimes, the ABS system is the first to suffer when there are charging problems. Might take a look at that too.

yeah, i think you need another estimate and/or a VERY good explanation of why it needs headwork. did anyone check the fuel pump's cap/o-ring?

will the car jerk/buck in tight turns on dry pavement? worse after the trans is warmed-up?

oil pan gaskets rarely leak - you might do some extensive cleaning to try to confirm the leak's location. is the check engine light on? get the codes read and post them for us. are you feeling a jerkiness after the transmission has warmed-up? will the car do tight circles on dry pavement smoothly?

leaking at the rear of the engine on the legacy 'might' be the air/oil separator plate. I can never recall what years have the troublesome plastic plate. You said trans though - sure about it? I have no experience with Mobil 1 but it isn't popular with soob owners. You seem to have good luck with it. I'm in no position to criticize, I can tell you that I use Walmart synth 5w-30 in the winter here in DFW, and Shell Rotella T6 synth 5w-40 in the summer. 6 month schedule due to low miles. about 5-6K on our 03 Outback, about 3-4K on my WRX. I'm sure they'd go longer. You could try using Blackstone labs oil analysis to help stretch the changes out - maybe read-up a little over at bobistheoilguy.com

threads about oil are common and you can get a lot of opinions. What schedule and oil/filters do you use now?

that's called a 'Tachometer' and shows engine rpm (revolutions per minute) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tachometer You seem to have a car with an automatic transmission. If so, you can pretty-much ignore the tachometer. Of course, if you notice odd behavior from it when you experience a problem with the car - you should mention it to your mechanic. Also, when the car's shifter is in Park or N (neutral) never press the accelerator such that the Tachomoter's needle stays in the red zone. A relative with more familiarity with cars might be able to give you some more tips about the entire gauge cluster (as well as other parts/systems in your car), and your owner's manual will have a little information too.

Still on the old tank of fuel? moisture/phase separation in fuel? maybe try some HEET.

I guess there's some confusion. Do you have an AWD vehicle or a FWD Legacy. I think FWD went away about 1996? ebay has LSDs for the front diffs of Subarus from several hundred to $1500 or so. Not sure on application to your car's trans. Cusco, OBX, Quaife, maybe Giken... just need to email, research what fits that trans. here's a thread about the OBX - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=700370&highlight=obx+diff

meh - many makers of tools/supplies used by mechanics make/made promo items featuring female models. You see much the same in auto, boating and other similar magazines popular with men. If there were a history of auto repair shops staffed by females, there'd be calendars and posters of shirtless ,buff young men holding babies. or Italian shoes.

I believe there's one or 2 aftermarket options for front LSD but, not 'stock'/OEM (that I know of...?) and not cheap/trivial to install. Seems like there was one on ebay I saw a long time ago..... might be some Aussie sandrails that run like that, not sure. check over at NASIOC too.

I doubt there would be interior colors offered in one year so close in shade as to be confused. could your car, or the previous vehicle you mentioned, have had a custom/replacement interior?

you would be EXTREMELY lucky to suffer a timing belt failure without valve destruction in that 2.5. I changed my WRX's timing stuff at 8.5 years, mileage was way under the 105K. Glad I did too, the toothed idler was crunchy and a little wobbly. Another was very loose and slightly noisy. belt was fine. That idler would have puked it's bearings before 105K I feel certain. And, I will probably accelerate the next change to 6 years or so. (unless I start putting more miles on) because I didn't change the waterpump or cam/crank seals.

if it has factory security - you can get used remotes. From ebay or a forum member in the classifieds, etc. use the key to go into the routine to 'register' the remote. check cars101.com for instructions. It's tricky - you may need help from a dealer or mechanic.

the door pulls on the front doors, particularly the driver's side, were getting severely wrinkled and the vinyl w'ever covering was splitting and getting pokey. I found some velcro drink 'cozys' that you wrap around a bottle or can on sale for $1 - , they aren't a good color match, but they hide the problem. - so far the wife considers them a good solution (whew!)

vacuum gauge testing is cheap/free and might help rule-out one or two problems. Symptoms kinda seem like car might be running lean. You could also try spraying some carb cleaner around vacuum lines and intake manifold when it is missing at idle - listen for it to smooth out if it sucks in some cleaner. fuel pressure maybe low?

fuel smell could be rusted-thru filler tube.

no oil on the plug wire boots? was the timing belt system serviced at about 105K miles? One thing that kinda fits the symptoms would be a bad Engine temp Sensor keeping the car 'choked'. Some data from the ECU might help confirm that. There may also be an ohmmeter check in the FSM for that sensor - others may know what to look for.

yeah, lock and unlock the car with the remote fob. That might get a confused security system back in sync.

do you have a CD stuck in the player?

just replace it - at worst, you might waste another few months of life and, you will have a known good battery in the system. If you have more starting problems, you will know one part of the system is good for further troubleshooting.

well, a shop should have both experience and equipment for proper bearing replacement. There are hub 'tamers' and 'sharks' ,etc. - DIY tools. maybe even borrow similar tools from a parts store - but a shop will have a hydraulic press. If they can't get it out of a knuckle, you wouldn't have either and will need to get a knuckle, maybe from a junkyard? That ebay bearing is marked NTN and japan so, probably OEM. Fairtax should have a better idea of how much $/hassle it is for a first-time DIY job. I just suggested it as an 'intermediate' approach.

when was the timing belt changed? has the car been well maintained? miles? new to you? check engine light on? general condition...more details please.

bent/broken caliper bracket? I think someone is gonna have to watch the brakes engage/release while a helper stands on the pedal. no sign of a bad wheel bearing I guess?