1 Lucky Texan

you could carefully compare temps of the hubs and rotors after a highway run. Best to use an infrared therm but touching quickly may work OK. Only a coupla things would heat-up one hub more than the others, bad wheel bearing or dragging caliper. Most likely front wheel (on side toward the 'pulling'). Less likely rear wheel. http://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Lasergrip-Temperature-Non-contact-Thermometer/dp/B00DMI632G/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1432699881&sr=1-3&keywords=infrared+thermometer

does anyone regularly refill the tank and "top-off" by rounding up to the nearest dollar or until fuel comes out the filler? if so, charcoal canister may be saturated. does the car ever sit for days/weeks? valves can get gummed-up or creatures plug the Drain valve in the evap system. (Mazda has had multiple problems with the Yellow Sack Spider in their evap systems)

could this be an intermittent crank position sensor? some older soobs had those go out at temp i think. do you run without TB covers by chance? maybe some metal filings/debris have collected on the CPS. also, kinda wonder if the TPS could an issue here?

man - people fight this a lot and it can be 3-4 things. My MIL's 2011 Forester had to have a new tank installed! better hope it's a bad Drain valve, purge valve, flooded carbon canister or bugs/spiders building a web in the drain outlet hose.

volts with no load won't really tell you if the circuit is free from resistance. maybe look for where the FP is grounded and make sure the ground is good? the ECU has the FP on a timer when you first turn the key ON so, there is pump voltage from the ECU. maybe the other voltage yor'er reading is for the sender unit? I'm kinda out of my knowledge/experience zone here so , I'll let fairtax and others carry-on.

cycle the key to ON/OFF - ON/Off a few times without starting. then pull plugs to look for a wet one. If you find one wet with fuel, maybe that injector is leaking?

if it clicks - gotta go with fairtax above. if not, maybe some neutral safety or clutch pedal switch? (is this an auto trans?)

can the IACV buzz?

find the tooth count for your engine as a double check. belt marks only line-up again after dozens of rotations.

just saying, good job riverview on both troubleshooting and posting results/pic thanx

be careful mating to the trans. the TC can slide forward and cause a situation putting too much force on the pump.

yeah, might be worth researching swaps over at NASIOC too.

I lost a handful of change at a fast lube place once decades ago. we try to remove 'interesting' items and particularly 'cash/coins' .

ah, seems easier than I feared.

might be better overall to shop around at Tirerack.com or similar for new rims that have the look you want. there's a system there that lets you load your car's image and 'try on' different rims. maybe at discount tire's website and others too (Rota ?)

is there a write-up for bleeding the system after ABS pump replacement?

make sure the older wheels will clear the calipers too.

^^^ triple check final drive of trans and rear diff. older 4eat clutchplates have a drive drum that gets 'grooves' i think, can cause clutch plates to hang-up. maybe just got unlucky with the trans swap? might just try another trans or, swap just the tailshaft part - if someone can confirm it will fit, try to get a 98 tailshaft or newer - coupla improvements after 97 1/2 from what i read.

good point here! If you do not hear anything - could be an inhibitor/neutral safety-type problem. Try starting in neutral or shifting in/out/in/out/in from park and neutral. 'pop' the brake pedal with 2-3 quick taps when stepping on it. if 5 spd, 'pop' the clutch pedal. at least, i think a 2000 will have the system in place that checks the pedals? anyone?

not sure what vehicle the pump came from, but some owners of gen2 legacy-based cars have had a broken 'cap'/ bad o-ring problem causing fuel pressure loss.

try whacking the starter with a piece of wood. could be the contacts/plunger are worn and intermittent in the starter solenoid. worth examining/cleaning battery connections and cables too.

visit a junkyard?

You really need to pin-down where the problem is. maybe get a soob-experienced mechanic to test drive it? http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/27878-4eat-tail-section-rebuild-without-removing-transmission.html the solenoid and clutches are in trans fluid. The drive part can become grooved and the clutches can bind-up. Also, i have read that after about n97 1/2 , the valve was changed. maybe a tailshaft from a 98 or newer in the junkyard would fix your car?

u-joint, carrier bearing also possible culprits. when you read of binding being worse when warm, those are usually the 5 spd transmissions. Cneter diff in them is a lot different than the wet clutch pack in the auto - and they have no FWD fuse. But, pretty sure a 94 has the 'bad' aluminum sleeve problem that cause the clutch plates to bind. and, I'm not certain how it might behave with temp. Could need a tail-shaft rebuild or, maybe someone knows if a newer style trans will swap in?

alternator belt tight? crank pulley not loose?