1 Lucky Texan

volts don't mean that much when you need to push power to something. could be bad cables or a corroded connection somewhere?

yeah, a pressure test and eyes on the area should help - maybe a part is cracked?

consider taking your knuckles and new bearings to a shop and pay them to swap.

dang - hoping it isn't HGs. if it overheats again, pull over and, with the engine running, see if either; 1. there are bubbles coming up thru the coolant in the overflow tank or 2. the overflow bottle is filled vey high or spilling over. (don't remove the rad cap on a hot engine!)

yeah, could be a non-oem style t'stat in there now, or a bad t'stat. if you replace it, get OEM (or the oem Stant)

try cleaning the dead bees out of the radiator ,some people have had a lot of debris collect between the a/c cond. and rad. have the radiator flow tested?

cool!

different monitors complete with different circumstances. i think some need a certain number of cold starts? and some States will allow 1 or 2 monitors to be incomplete, perhaps depending on which ones. I'd suspect most folks would be OK after 3 days or so of driving.

^^^ what he said, also, some folks report that, on some engine blocks, there is a lump or boss that can compromise the sensor's wires. You have to be careful to 'clock'/route the cable the same direction as stock. some people report they will crack if over-torqued too.

a 99 could coincidentally have bad starter solenoid contacts/plunger. try whacking the starter with a piece of 2x4 . a coupla 'easy-ish' taps first, then harder if those don't work. If it starts - likely the solenoid needs rebuilding.

one way to try to locate a vacuum leak, is to spray around with carb cleaner. Intake manifold, vacuum lines,etc. When it gets sucked in, listen for change in the idle as it is burned with the fuel.

well, a vacuum gauge might tell you something and is cheap to try (mybe free if you 'loan' it out from a parts store) Seems like there could be a wiring or grounding problem. Also, I THINK a couple of those sensors assoc. with those codes use a 5V reference signal from the ECU. If one sensor is killing that, it could affect the others that use it. maybe there's a common ground or a rodent-chewed wiring harness or loose connector? the noise could be a poorly seated airbox after a filter change.

I'm no expert but, IF (that's a big if) the actual - uh - centerpoint - for the articulation is the same, it might work. but, if that point is in a different position than the design requires, there's gonna be a fight with the spindle/knuckle/strut/control arms everytime it turns - (I THINK)

whoa! glad you caught it in time!

well, yeah, but wasn't clear you had them off - I guess you installed new seals? most people use a strap wrench or rig something similar (chain wrench over a piece of the old belt to protect the pulley) or buy a special tool for that. http://www.company23.com/subaru/subarutools

problem does seem to be with the cams. look for hash marks on the front RIM of those pulleys. crank is fine.

I think some folks with older soobs have used a higher output alternator from Nissan Maximas ??? what symptoms do you have? You could have a local rebuilder rebuild you alternator, you'll spend a little and wait a coupla days but have a MUCH better unit than what you get from a parts store. Also, there is a special part number for Subaru rebuilt alternators and folks say they are good.

it's Prothane kit 16-201 (mine's red) but, not sure if it will fit a 97.

Just to be clear, if I can locate everything, i have used (less than 10-12K miles) Prothane bushings already in front LCA rear Outback housings, and unused Prothane inner bushings. They are harsh going over sharp transitions (like uneven concrete expansion joints for instance) The Febest rubber units have been fine since I installed them. Also, user grossgary here at USMB has used them many times with no issues.

I HAD poly and dumped them for Febest. Drastic improvement in harshness. how they would compare to fresh OEM, I dunno. you can read the entire 'saga' here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/48910-lower-control-arm-rear-bushing-transverse-link-replaced-prothane-03-outback.html I still have the new inner bushings (I THINK) and the slightly used rear bushings. Dunno how much shipping would be but, make me an offer. Unless you plan to lift your leggy, you won't need the actual mount so, shipping will be a little less if I pull the parts out of the mount. Some folks say the housing isn't different enough to matter. And you will want to source some new grease to put on them after you clean them up. a new kit though is not expensive. If you are gonna track the car or run it off-road - or if it was never on anything but the smoothest pavement, poly would be good. Tightens up the steering responses a little, makes 'takeoffs' and braking feel, uh - more 'immediate' I guess. hard to explain.

1 out of 4 gave it 1 star. There is a success story with a Subaru there - but it didn't seem to have a typical leak, 'smoke' out the tailpipe was mentioned - not comb. chamber bubbles in the radiator.

you can still be stranded or trying to navigate through traffic, maybe at night, with a dead motor if the you lose cam timing.

hah, yeah, I remeber the days when I carried a jug of water to pour on the fuel pump on my 78 (yeah 1978) Honda Civic in summer - sucker vaporlocked regularly after I'd park it. many cars that had spare oil and coolant in the trunk. so far, not required in either subie. (fingers crossed)

man, who doesn't have partial bottles of automobile fluids hanging out in the garage?