1 Lucky Texan

accelerating causes 'squat' so, all the rear suspension gets compressed. 'Knock' doesn't 'seem' like a bearing. though, soob bearings DO exhibit odd/varied symptoms sometimes when failing, knock doesn't seem to be one from what I have read. suspension parts or possibly diff bushings i guess ??? also, definitely worth checking lug nuts/studs, rear axle nuts and brake shields, etc.

a mechanic SHOULD know to only use an OEM style t'stat on a Subaru, but it's only 2 bolts to confirm.

kinda odd symptoms. we're just guessing without some way to measure/track a:f ratios during the warm-up period. My guess, a 96 could have some gummy deposits in the IACV that change characteristics as the car warms-up I guess. You might clean it. If the car is equipped with a MAF, there's a special spray cleaner for that as well.

if the car uses 9005 for that location, you can 'hack' 9011 bulbs to fit - much brighter. EDIT - low beams seem to be H7, not aware of any 'hack' for those. high beams are upgrade-able to modded 9011 though.

IACV problem (might just need cleaning) could cause idle-only problems.

if you get and fix the car. please tell us what you find? thanx

I'd still be suspicious of; bad cables, bad battery and bad starter contacts/plunger. But I admit, it seems a little odd. 12.5 with no load doesn't necessarily mean the battery is good.

probably a stupid question but, was the timing belt set using the crank sprocket arrow/triangle on the front, or the dash/line on the tab in the back? also, are any of the tabs broken-off the back of the crank sprocket?

if the headlight dimmed a LOT during the start attempt, I think the next test would be to see if the engine can be rotated by hand at the crank pulley. If so, perhaps the starter is shorted internally???? seems unlikely since it works on the bench. If not, the engine is probably seized. Was the car working fine, then just wouldn't start?

On older models, sometimes the original crush washer was painted in place and folks would double-stack with a new washer = leakage.

I think you can locate and connect a pair of green connectors under the dash. Doing that should cause the fans and many relays to cycle, you might be able to feel that relay operate - of course, that doesn't ment the contacts inside are functioning......

those starters can be intermittent due to corroded/worn contacts in the solenoid - well known problem. Might work on a test bench, then not work next time. try hitting it with a piece of wood, try to start, hit again, try to start - a few times. also, if you turn on the headlights when you try to start, do they dim almost to dark, or, not at all?

can you hear the pump run for a coupla seconds when you cycle the key to 'ON' ?

some of the airboxes have difficulty seating the tabs at one end - not sure if that's true for a 97.

try hitting the starter with a piece of wood and re-try to start. The Contacts in the solenoid can be corroded and fail - or be intermittent. Corroded battery cables could be part of the problem too but, not uncommon for an older starter to need new contacts and plunger. Rebuild kits are available on ebay and elsewhere.

well, I LOVE the Stromung twin-tip on my wrx, but $$$ but I dunno what it would sound like on a 2.2 - you find several youtube videos but, to me, it doesn't seem like the record the low end very well

the ABS is very sensitive to voltage too - check your charging system.

I had no problems with a set of tires sent to me, mounted on new rims, from Tire Rack. They also helped me find some hub covers that were somewhat rare after I lost a couple. I also saved about $16 once on a set of tires at my local Discount Tire when I quietly asked the sales guy to match the Rack. Got a little savings after they calculated the shipping/tax differences. personally, I have no problems with TireRack, but there certainly IS potential for a hassle. I also really like DT - they have always treated me, my daughters and other relatives right. The one problem I had there, they handled just fine in the past.

you could even try a turn-down tip.

hoping you checked the trans fluid while idling. many people miss that. You might consider a SeaFoam treatment - at least some, or Techron, in the a tankful fo gas. Can help clean injectors/remove carbon.

you have a big vacuum leak most likely. start with confirming any/all hoses were re-connected after the plugs and other work you did. try a vacuum gauge to confirm, or maybe try spraying some carb cleaner or even a small stream of gas from a propane torch around the hoses and intake mani to locate the leak.

I guess for business that have sales and offer a service, they often use different schedules - plus, you could get a dumb receptionist in the mix... there's difference between, "how late can someone sell me a battery" vs "If I want to wait on new cables being made, what's the latest I should arrive?" still, kinda sucks if you were misled about it.

just mentioning 2 things here; post a new thread asking for a soob-experienced mechanic near you in Hawthorne. kinda seems like your mechanic is confused. And, your car needs a timing belt service if it wasn't done last year. 105K miles OR 105 months.

I suppose it's possible some rear strut oil made it to the ground.

ah, probably doesn't have the o-ring issue then.