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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. Thanx, probably have to wait to see if I get a quarterly bonus but, seems like a good deal with the shipping included!
  2. yes, same fuel pump design, actually, I think the initial cap/o-ring complaints on fuel pumps all came from H6es.
  3. HEY! I did a tiny amount of biz with you guys in the past! How much for a rear antisway bar for an 06 WRX WAGON ?
  4. when I did my WRX's belt, it was early by miles (less than 60K), but close to the 105 MONTHs in the schedule. The belt looked great, the toothed idler was rough and slightly wobbly. One other idler was slightly rough. I left the waterpump, but will probably accelerate the next TB service and of course change the WP then. to my mind, inexcusable to not change every idler and probably the tensioner.
  5. genedoc, tells us the symptoms/story with your car. why do you think you need HGs? what year is the car? new to you or ???????
  6. maybe he was complaining about a hot 'smell'. Sometimes the inner boot splits and throws grease on the exhaust or some other fluid drips onto the exh. ??????
  7. ^^^ what he said also, if you have the original timing belt, you are overdue to change it.
  8. is it 'really' getting hot? Does the gauge even slow-down near the 'normal' reading or does it just peg-out? might double-check the alternator's output. has someone removed the thermostat or used an aftermarket type?
  9. charcoal canister might be flooded, gas cap seal cracked (but, seems like you get pressure build-up in the tank so, not likely), evap hoses loose/cracked, etc. there should not be any significant pressure differential in the tank if the various fill and purge valves are working correctly. While rare, some people get spiders clogging evap drain hoses.
  10. usually folks get evap codes with evap problems but, it sure seems like a bad/clogged Purge valve or similar. in very cold weather, some of the fuel systems clamps underhood can leak.... interesting
  11. make darn certain someone hasn't used the wrong fluid in the diff.
  12. off topic somewhat but, wondering if anyone has tried SurTrak axles? At least one reviewer at Amazon says he has no vibration from it. http://www.amazon.com/SurTrack-HO-8047-CV-Axle-Shaft/dp/B00DCNNWW0 they appear to be new Chinese. website is trakmotive; https://trakmotive.mycarparts.net/products/TrakMotive%20CV%20Axles-SB-8011?product_application_id=4985682242
  13. the inner joint is less exposed to dirt than the outer one - and they are robust and rarely fail without some warning, Everything I've read advises to definitely re-use it if possible. if the outer boot has been open for some time, that's more risky, but might not be not a show-stopper. Also, Febest has joints for sale on Amazon but I have not read of anyone trying them yet. similar to this; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMA2MN8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&coliid=I1JL2WBJ09B8RO
  14. yeah, highly recommend; 1. rebuild your axle, 2. rebuild a used Subaru axle, 3. rebuilt from FWE in Colorado
  15. years ago, my middle daughter owned a 90 maxima that would occasionally stall-out, most often when turning thru an intersection. it was the 'motor control relay' . $20 fix. so, I believe it 'could' be something like that. (suggested to me on the nissan Usenet group by a Nissan Tech in Florida - gotta luv the internet!)
  16. possible - what led you to do the work listed in the first post? how many miles/months since last TB change?
  17. has it ever done it with the engine still cold? you said no CEL but, have you scanned for pending codes? TPS might be possible culprit. some folks have had crank position sensors be intermittent when they get hot.(dunno why you wouldn't get a code for that though) just some wild guesses.
  18. it isn't really giving up. It's just which is likely to be the better approach to getting the car back on the road. You're kinda deep and seem to have a lot of confidence so, if one of the gurus responds with some advice, i bet you can get this trans going. Wouldn't hurt to price some used ones at least.
  19. yeah, I'd COUNT all 200+ teeth on both belts to absolutely confirm they are the same. then, count teeth from mark-to-mark before AND after pulling the pin of the tensioner. Then again after rotating the crank a coupla times by hand - before starting.
  20. ^^^ +1 do it at night and you might see the coil or wires arcing
  21. tires woulds be the main issues, but i recall Subaru and maybe some other brands forced to offer extended warranties because they had some cars' odos off by over 3%
  22. what would that mls Felpro part number be there lieutenant crawlerdan?

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