1 Lucky Texan

185K miles? probably find a used trans from a wreck, even with a little warranty, with 1/3 those miles. maybe worth looking around car-part.com for prices to help decide which way to go.

wow, low miles, well, you may still be a coupla years away from a TB service. (original battery? I have had a bad battery trigger spurious codes) We would need more details to even offer educated guesses at this point. Codes would be helpful. i think there is a way to get the car to display the codes on the dash. then, you should be able to reset the ECU; disconnect neg. cable from battery, step on the brake pedal, wait maybe 15 minutes, reconnect(or,disconnect the batt. neg. cable overnight ) reconn. and see if the car runs normally, pops the CEL with new codes or gos back into limp mode?

start getting all stored codes and posting them here, then by resetting the ECU and see what codes are set or if it falls back into limp mode - basically what happens after that. miles on car? was the timing belt service done and if so, what parts were swapped.

hmmm did the rad fans cycle on-off?

wow, crazy story. be sure to check the trans fluid level while idling. It's the only fluid level like that.

muffler delete with a turned-down tip is cheap noise.

bad knock sensor could be in the mix here too.

ivans imports has torn into them ;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134322-repaird-awd-center-diff/?hl=%2Bcenter+%2Bdiff

wow I have no useful input

if it's like the delayed engagement seen in soob trans, try some Trans-X additive.

is that considered a 'suspension' part? there's a recall that might be related check over at cars101.com

should be fine. you might also check ebay and craigslist for used tires that may closely match the other 2 on her car in wear.

might be labeled CRC or K&W ? a few good reviews at Amazon; http://www.amazon.com/CRC-402015-Trans-X-Slip-Stop-Leak-Fix/dp/B000CITXQM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

well, just idling i guess the Trans-X would start to circulate - might free things up. Unless you're saying you have no transportation in which case food may be a bigger priority!

if there's any indication the car was driven thru very high water - just have the diff fluid replaced. Or do it anyway, when was it swapped last? it's def not common, but possible for a diff's vent to suck in water if fording high water.

I think they also have a hi/lo operation. Just that, it's a common symptom when fans fail, you get good cooling when moving, then overheat at idle. I suppose some restriction in the radiator could have similar symptoms. bad news on the HGs though. ugh

I'd def. try Trans-X treatment first. some folks have good luck with it - though it seems it needs to be re-freshed every year or so? try a search for threads about that.

hmm...you sure the fans are working properly?

maybe charge with UV dye mixed refrigerant? be sure to check the schrader/charge valves.

um, they replaced all 4 tires right?

what's wrong with yours? the plunger and contacts are available in re-work 'kits'.

if you pull a coupla plugs, are they wet with fuel? If so, You might try starting with the pedal on the floor while cranking. On fuel injected cars, that makes the ECU hold back fuel - it's the 'clear flood' signal. could the timing belt have slipped?

well, old sparkplug cables can become brittle/compromised in such a way that, most particularly in 'moist' weather conditions, they cause misfires. Seems unlikely to cause an actual stall, but, misting the idling car's engine with a plant sprayer, at night, will sometimes cause rough running and you will see arcs from the high voltage bypassing thru the insulation. so, any correlation with your symptoms and wet weather? Is the problem MORE or LESS likely as the car warms up/dries out? a poor/intermittent ground connection or harness could cause your problem. You could try gently pulling/pushing on cables while the car is idling.

It's been a while, but I can recall 2-3 threads of intermittent crank sensor failures on older soobs. But, it seems like they were temp related. cheap part to try. also, is there any correlation with rain? maybe your wires or coil are arcing?

I chock the front wheels, pull the parking brake to the first click, lift the rear at the diff and use stands at the flat-jacking pinchwelds. Then, pull the little rubbder plugs out of the backing plates. Use a flat blade screwdriver and rotate the star wheel UP until the wheel won't turn. Put the plug back in. repeat for the other side. that should do it. It is possible the little shoes are worn out I guess. You can buy a rebuild kit. i have never adjusted the inside so, dunno how much wear on the shoes can be created by that adjustment.