1 Lucky Texan

maybe check the u-joint going down to the rack? like number 10 in this drawing (yours might be different); dunno

when you say on top, would I need a mirror to see these? how big is the lettering?

it may not be, but unless you can look at the freezeframe data to see if the fuel trims are outta whack - you may not know. The MAF or MAP is also involved in setting the A:F, and poor ignition can spit out HCs so, low compression, bad plugs, bad plug wires, vacuum leaks, etc. Soobs are picky about some parts. Plugs NGK, plug wires OEM, front O2 Denso - if the mechanic tried to cut any corners - that could lead to part of the problem. maybe someone could recommend a mechanic in your area that would help you pin down where the problem is.

my concern would be that the cat is just trying to deal with a problem from 'upstream'. If you're running rich, or sucking in a lot of oil thru the PCV system, etc. - the cat will try to burn-off the xtra HCs. That could be one reason it seemed excessively hot.

here's the whole thing;

borrowed gauges from work and just this weekend took a look at our OBW H6 - wife complained thursday night about no/intermittent cooling. I inspected around the 2 lines on the compressor, H line seemed fine, L line may have had some slight oil stain on the back side - no buildup of grime or wet-looking.drippy area at all so, I decided to leave them for now (I did buy some a/c o-rings just in case) fans were working, compressor seemed to work. St first, blowing cold - then would kinda warm up, maybe icing? anyway, gauges showed low on refrigerant. I put in 'maybe' 7 oz (plus or minus - hard to tell with the hose attached) and it's doing much better. I figure most of the summer it wasn't ever cycling and that may explain my poorer gas mileage this summer. I used the refrig. that has a dye but no sealant. If the a/c perf. drops off in the next few weeks, maybe I'll know where the problem is.

I doubt anyone can tell you precisely - only that it's a bad idea. And the torque bind damage is expensive to repair - might be hazardous too. have the spare shaved to match the other 3 . note, a replacement used tire needs to be the same brand/model and if possible age of the other 3 (in case the manufacturer made changes to the model) check ebay for used tires. or get a new, matched set.

won't the system detect less air and PULL fuel?

^^^ good post right there.

something's pulling in enough to dim the lights, but is either hanging up or the cables/battery can't supply enough current. So, ignition switch is probably OK. And the battery is probably OK given the failure seems intermittent and the car will eventually start. I'd say the solenoid contacts are pitted/bad or the starter is going. But, cleaning the battery terminals and inspecting the cables and the ground and starter connections would be a good idea in case current is being limited and that stuff is easy/cheap.

I tried to look at opposed forces. not sure what I'm reading but, 'maybe' manufacturing dates up to Feb 2004 are the 'old style'. I think the door frame card will have manufacturing dates. 05 is around the time they started using the new style but - it might depend also on model (auto, manual, H4, H6 etc.) when you get axles - you might need to supply a VIN or manufacturing date.

might be wort reading through here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/16769-p0420-check-engine-light-read-if-youve-had-2.html take a look at post #18 also, I had a coupla other thoughts, the turbo guys say that oil will lower effective octane rating som in addition to other problems, it appears a bad/leaky PCV system 'might' affect the front O2 or otherwise cause some problems. Also, if any of the 420 affected cars have 'off-idle' stumble, that can also be a 'lazy' front O2 and related to a 420 code. I also read that water contamination pushes the system lean (probably similar to clogged injectors/low fule pressure - basically, not enough 'good' fuel) Anyone, when front O2 sensors go bad - do they push the system lean or rich?

Maybe rig longer doors that open lambo or gull-wing style!

are they picky about how much material is left to do an exchange? I always wondered about that.

looks kinda like a Buick Roadmaster and a 57 Chevy had a child lol! dunno, just GIS on 'chevy nomad' and '2 door woody wagon', and grabbed some fun-looking pics

? If they come from a junker - I'm sure they could. New struts aren't usually quoted that way - I guess someone might sell them w/springs.

the old XT6 I believe had a a manual locking center diff. Dunno if the internals would move over, or if the entire 5 speed is transplantable to anything modern. you might read this too; http://www.scoobymods.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=9654&d=1346818252

marginally low refrigerant as said, also, check the cabin airfilter. Ice can build up if airflow is blocked.

dunno what car you have, but looking at my wife's OBW at opposedforces, SEEMS to show several spots for the control harness; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_27/automatic_transmission/at_shift_control/ this is out of my experience though so, might not apply.

Although I hate the idea of driving around leaking all over - $370 will buy a lot of ATF. You could seek out a second opinion. I think there are just o-rings involved but perhaps it's difficult to get to? not sure. someone may be able to recommend a mechanic near Fairfax to give you another estimate.

I'm no expert on every failure mode possible, but I clearly saw bubbles in the reservoir while idling before I changed the o-ring on top of the pump in our 03 H6. The only places air can be sucked in would be someplace in the pump itself, the hose attachment stuff on top of the pump, the suction/supply w'ever hose, or the hose attachment at the reservoir tank. Also, not sure exactly what a '97 ps system is like. There may be an o-ring under the tank if it's on top of your pump. Every thing else is under pressure and fluid would have to be pushed out long before air could get back in.

wow - is that new? how much was the shipping because, about the best I can see is around $85 delivered.

what are you doing for springs? I have my stock pull-offs from my 06 WRX wagon. dunno if they would work/fit for you. they have less than 1900 miles on them.

any work,wrecks repairs or mods done right before this began? are you saying it's surging? what are the rpms on the tach like when this happens? is the CEL on? any other symptoms while driving?