1 Lucky Texan

seems like you could have 2-3 different issues. Did you confirm the new transmission has the same final drive ratio as the rear diff? Has the driveshaft carrier bearing and u-joints been examined? If you did tight turns in a parking lot, would the car jerk? The new transmission could have a bad cltchpack or Duty C solenoid and is exhibiting torque bind. When was the timing belt last changed? A slipped TB could cause reduced power. If you listen under the hood, where does the whine seem to come from? Does the sound change when you turn the steering wheel? Is a CEL on? what codes are stored? what is the mileage on the car and it's general condition? are you the original owner?

maybe someone could recommend a soob-experienced mechanic , or a good dealership, in Minneapolis. Then tell the insurance adjuster there's a problem that didn't exist before the wreck and have him meet with the new mechanic. maybe there's a driveshaft/u-joint problem?

although designed for snow/ice, something like these could help in an emergency if you're slow and careful; there are other brands of similar devices, maybe one made for dirt/mud? (they show this one off-road; ) and nothing would be lighter to carry than rope(make sure it will clear the caliper and dont' destroy your stems);

while looking for something else, I found this in my 'car stuff' file; http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-check-engine-light-and-code-p0420-explained/

if you have a stump available, you don't need a wheel! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GIFSoup

interesting question - wonder if there's a youtube video on the process. I know very little about it, I WAS told that, there is a 'prep' step that some techs skip when they install glass - a 'short-cut', that a good tech won't take. keep in mind, proper glass installation is a safety issue. Up to 40% of some vehicles' structural integrity in a rollover is in the glass! And part of its job is to keep you from flying out over the hood in a wreck.

^^^^ include Ebay and a WTB here. maybe dig around at opposedforces.com for a soob part number

got some 8mm and some 10mm push retainers coming from Amazon. 20 pcs each $3.88 and $3.89 Amico brand, free shipping! hope they are decent quality. Hope the 10s will work (they look different)but, they were cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00976LHRI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01

I think I shall reward your post with this; GIFSoup

mask - it's only to fool the ecu, like the spacer/anti-fouler 'trick'.

Ivan, I can't recall if you mentioned trying it, but here's an 'electronic' fix that works for some folks; http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/mod-eletronic-cel-fix-04-3768.html?t=3768

I've dug around enough to realize that a decent looking assortment kit is around $30 (and probably half the parts you'd never use) so, getting the calipers out and just measuring the diameter of what I need to replace, then getting something close locally, is probably the most practical way to go. It would be cool if there was a $10-$15 bag of 3-5 each of 2-3 push retainers that are Soob specific. But that's just too much to ask evidently. That link is good and the prices are OK (dunno about shipping) - I have 2 soobs to maintain so, getting $20 worth of the 2 most common styles might be worth it. For certain, if you were PLANNING a project that required fender liner, interior or other clips to be removed, just go ahead and get them from a dealer or a link like the above, you're gonna need them.

OK, I admit I haven't shopped around for them but, are there aftermarket plastic pop-up rivets that will work as replacements on our cars? Almost every time I remove those things, a leg or 2 snaps off. I JUST was examining my 06 WRX - trying to figure out how to change a parking light bulb. I decided to move the washer fluid fill tube outta the way and its rivet snapped 3 of the 4 'legs' off. I think the heat in Texas just destroys them in a 3-4 years. has someone got a variety pack that works well for Soobs or do you just buy different diameters - and how many 'styles' are there?

ask him if he is willing to refund at least the labor if the same code comes back twice in 3 months. And save your old cat. anybody can throw parts at a car. Converters DO go bad, but MANY people have solved p0420 (is that the code?) with much cheaper fixes than a new cat. For that kinda money, probably worth having a second opinion. maybe someone here can suggest a shop near Westford.

some folks will mix their own fuel, using xylene or toluene to boost octane - but they are running a lot of boost or have higher compression engines than stock. Low compression NA will not see any benefit. (except perhaps one that has a lot of carbon build up)

would JDM turbo 2 liter pistons be closer?

Some folks say the vlsd is worn out aftter 65K miles - dunno. That bean probably does have one. We have a 03 H6 (not ll bean) with weather package and it is viscous. Sounds like it also has a diff cover so, that's kinda cool. I think that's an $80 or more accessory - maybe $180 - i don't recall. Supposedly, there are codes on top of the diff, next to the body, that will tell you if they are viscous/open and what the final drive ratio is. And that is probably the biggest issue - matching the rear's ratio with your front diff's ratio.

maybe a crank angle sensor is getting intermittent with temperature? maybe scan for pending codes after an 'event' - intermittent stuff may need to happen twice within a short period to set the CEL, but single occurrences would be stored for a little while as 'pending'.

fuel pressure/flow good? you said 'choked' but after re-reading, yeah, maybe it's starving for fuel after the pressure drops? maybe wire around the ecu control to the fuel pump with direct 12v and see if it stays running? maybe someone else will chime in with an idea.

maybe pull plugs and look for a wet one? perhaps thers some flooding from a bad injector?

I think one thing that commonly causes this is the connection under the intake that's for the big hose to the IACV.

I've seen that happen once. Caught it before in unlatched the seat.

triple check the PCV and breather hoses for misrouting. something wonky with the evap system or possibly fuel related? weird

off topic but, this is the most fun explanation of a differential;

yeah - first I heard of this, plus, aren't some newer pistons having cracked land problems? Dunno that WRX would be an upgrade.