1 Lucky Texan

very good question, there's a point at which you would just assume you had no worse chance than with any old car. I'd say if it was hot weather, and the car is somewhat loaded, at operating temp. and maybe cruising up/down some hills. The typical HG failure can be a little weird. some folks say they see the temp spike under load, others when engine braking along the exit ramp. Montor the o'flow bottle for extensive filling or overflowing. Defienitely bubbles would be weird. You want to confirm the fans are working too. Just search here for info about any system you have questions about. if it's stock - I think you have the EJ22 engine which is widely regarded as extremely durable. Worth fixing even if it does need headgaskets. Again, if anyone has changed the t'stat, and cannot confirm to you it's OEM, then you should consider just changing it.

do you know if it has a DEALER sourced thermostat? Most aftermarket t'stats won't work in soobs. Stant XACSTAT may work - there could be a NAPA part that will work - most will NOT. They fit, but will lead to weird overheating events. there is a chemical HG test from O'Reilly's and parts places like that - but it needs to be bubbling exhaust gasses thru the radiator so, you will probably need to actually drive it and monitor the temps. i suppose, if it has leaked a lot before, old coolant might look bad or there could be excess 'grunge' in the overflow tank. plan a road trip, with a buddy following in his car (buy gas and lunch for him), travel prepared for overheating and make sure, in a severe emergency, you could get the car towed or a ride to safety.

you probably already lost all the refrigerant. change the o-rings at the compressor, when you refill, use the refrigerant with the UV dye for the first can, top off with a can of regular.(I think the system holds 2 cans?) then monitor for the dye. Hopefully, there's no pinhole in the condenser or leaks anywhere that can't be fixed by more o-rings. Or take it to a shop with a 'sniffer' - they should be able to locate the leak, fix it, evacuate the system and re-charge it.

they only do that here on older cars - plus, I think pre-96 AWD may be exempt due to lack of 4WD dynos. They used to measure at 1200-1500 rpm IIRC. What's required in Montana might be a lot different than California. There could be some States that don't care about a CEL if the car passes the sniff test. I dunno.

where I live, the definition of failing for most gas cars built after 96 is, first, the CEL is on. Additional examination involves, making certain the fuel filler neck isn't modified, making certain all/most of the monitors are 'complete, probably other stuff. Again, you asked Subaru's position on the anti-fouler. Certainly i can't speak for them and I may be wrong, perhaps you could email them and ask. There ARE ways to handle 'nuisance' codes by re-flashing the ECU. Supposedly, and individual is allowed to do it for off-road use only. Dunno about a dealership. Again, what you, a dealership or some 3rd party can get away with, is different than the law. I personally know someone who reflashed their ECU to kill off about 14 codes related to a failed secondary Air Injection system. That person even has an 06 WRX wagon like mine. But. it is only legal for an offroad vehicle as I understand it. It isn't illegal, yet, to use the tactrix cable, Romraider software and ECUflash to actually DO it.

Oh, I understand the issue - just saying, it is unlikely Subaru, as a corporation, could endorse it. Plus, the cat could actually be bad, or you could have an exhaust leak. what you could 'get away with' is different than what is 'required'.

I doubt SUBARU can have any position that violates Fed or State Laws. Wouldn't use of any device to alter the function of the emissions systems on newer cars be outlawed in many places?

many H6s and 2-3 H4s have reported an o-ring/cap failure on the fuel pump shut them down. But it sounds like the shop has already diagnosed a trashed engine. Both engines mentioned are interference. maybe someone can suggest a different shop if he's uncomfortable with where it was towed.

if they told you there'd be no issues, you MIGHT get them swapped for free. where do they rub? It might be possible to run a few millimeters wheel spacer - but that could lead to fender rubbing (roll them?) and more stress on the wheel bearings.

yeah, that psycholinguistics cr@p went thru some of our State school systems back when I was a kid. When I'd come home, my mom would have to re-teach me the real way to learn reading/pronunciation. but, maybe, you could just hit the spacebar at the end of a thought once in while? ;^)

I THINK it's on top of the tank. but it may vary with years/models. maybe dig around at opposedforces.com also, maybe some SeaFoam in a tankful of fuel would loosen a stuck valve?

would this help? from; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_24/manipulation/manual_gear_shift_system/

shhhhh...don't spook him! He might leave and then I wouldn't learn anything.

could the car have been vandalized/damaged by someone trying to siphon fuel? or maybe it's a spider infestation; http://content.usatoday.com/communities/driveon/post/2011/03/spider-infestation-recall-web-mazda6-mazda/1#.UGUS7FHUQ1I

I doubt this is helpful, but recently someone else discovered there were 2 different sizes of circlip. Dunno exactly what this means - maybe someone else will know.

wonder how much it weighs? maybe it needs 250+ to have comparable performance to the old one. as for looks, maybe the BRZ isn't the only soob vehicle to get Toyota input.

a mis-aligned air filter 'box' will make a noise.(the tabs don't get inserted correctly) usually described as whooshing though.

OOoooohhhh - very good. It was an early 90s or so with a buzzing ABS. Can't recall if it would make a noise when OFF or not though.

When I had a tiny 78 Honda with 12 inch wheels, I would tell folks that, what was a 'dip' to them was just down one hill and up another for me!

yeah, a 'come-along' winch could pull that thing outta almost any trouble. I'd think you'd want a lot bigger tires - which means gearing is gonna be a problem, maybe a different gearset in the transmission? could be a fun project.

30 seconds? that's a long time. Maybe just a heat shield is loose but, 30 seconds, wow. does the car hold in park - parking pawl may be broken off. Of some problem with the flex plate. weird.

I assume the replacement transmission also came with the front diff? If someone paced your car on foot (be safe!) could they hear this sound and perhaps help determine if it is in the front or center of the car - or biased towards one side? you could, temporaily, operate without the accessory belts to eliminate whining from the ps, alt and a/c pulleys. I just can't figure a whine aasocuated with the odd power problems you're having that wouldn't be driveline related - thus the idea you may have 2 problems. i dunno, maybe someone else will add something more constructive.

some info on the Subaru coolant conditioner; http://www.scoobyenthusiast.com/subaru-maintenance/all-about-subaru-cooling-system-conditioner-soa635071

seems like you could have 2-3 different issues. Did you confirm the new transmission has the same final drive ratio as the rear diff? Has the driveshaft carrier bearing and u-joints been examined? If you did tight turns in a parking lot, would the car jerk? The new transmission could have a bad cltchpack or Duty C solenoid and is exhibiting torque bind. When was the timing belt last changed? A slipped TB could cause reduced power. If you listen under the hood, where does the whine seem to come from? Does the sound change when you turn the steering wheel? Is a CEL on? what codes are stored? what is the mileage on the car and it's general condition? are you the original owner?

maybe someone could recommend a soob-experienced mechanic , or a good dealership, in Minneapolis. Then tell the insurance adjuster there's a problem that didn't exist before the wreck and have him meet with the new mechanic. maybe there's a driveshaft/u-joint problem?