1 Lucky Texan

Yeah, often, cars that have poor reliability reputations are better as used cars as the issues have been worked out. fun costume! (I'm a fan of old school sci-fi/fantasy. The wife and I went to a Fathom Event last wednesday and saw Franenstein and Bride of F on the big screen. - fun, check here; http://www.fathomevents.com/ , also, I recently attended a Tugg event to see Iron Sky , but I noticed among the other titles they have, one that I am considering sponsoring myself - Jason and the Argonauts. http://www.tugg.com/ , I wish the website worked better there. ) I have one of those creepy horse masks I may take to work on the 31st;

definitely the downside to to mailorder biz - you can;t just drive back to the store and get an exchange. that sucks. What brand? maybe the factory just boxed 'em up wrong? (we've done that where i work - with embedded industrial computer boards!)

I worked with a guy that owned one for about 9 weeks. It spent more time in those 9 weeks getting warranty work done than at his house.

you might be able to get a Kartboy or Whiteline 'upgraded' after market for about what new resin (that's what we call plastic nowadays cause it doesn't sound cheap and wimpy) links from Subaru cost. They might be slightly noisier. I recently had a reason to check into front drop links due to an on-going 'discussion' with Geico about hidden (actually concealed) damage from a wreck in 2011.

I wonder. IF you had the front in the air, carefully idling in neutral, and pulled/pushed the wheels left/right, would you feel the problem? If so, disconnect the u-joint, then try again. If you still feel the problem, must be the rack or something below the joint. longshot I know but, maybe it would help. for that matter, with the wheels in the air and engine off, if you felt the problem, it may point to a mechanical issue and eliminate ANYTHING with the pump.

good job buddy! thanx for posting

interesting - would a spray like Belt-Eze help, or, at least, help diagnose slippage is the problem?

does the sping pin go all the way flush? I had to 'encourage' (with a bigger hammer) a pin to go in all the way. Dunno if that would create any looseness that could be felt.

My EMPIs I think are Chinese. Supposedly they come from a ISO9000 shop. Lifetime warranty too. or maybe my limited experience was just lucky. I DID read where quite a few VW owners have had poor quality from FEQ - even snapped axles!

start at the top, just as you come down, past the very first solder pad, there are 2 large thru-hole connections, vertical to each other, which are kinda dirty/smudgey looking. Look to the left of the lower one. There's an unused surface-mount position. I was just wondering what its purpose could be.

if you look kind of opposite that resistor's location, up around the 12 o'Clock position, there appears to be an unused spot for a component. I'm wonder if there's an unused option and what it might be? if you pull this part out, see if you can trace the lands from that location. I'm reluctant to do this to my wife's car. she's VERY sensitive to any alterations to it. Always asking why and crap like that lol!

just double checking. most likely poorly rebuilt axles as you say. They will still probably split a boot open before they mechanically fail though. many other people have also had good luck with EMPI from RockAuto. They are new and only a few bucks more than rebuilts. Might be a good intermediate choice between cheap rebuilts and OEM $$$$ units for you. I just installed my second one. Comes with a new spring pin and new axle nut. or get MWE rebuilts. many people swear by them as they are properly rebuilt Subaru axles.

when you say 'outer', do you mean the DOJ 'cup'? or the CV (Rzeppa) joint at the wheel?

great find!

yep - no different than the spline connection in the hub really. joints will fail long before the splines would be a problem. Could efseiler have gotten the wrong axles with a larger different spline count/cup? maybe I'm confused as to where the problem lies.

because aftermarket rebuilts are just ground to a smooth surface with oversized ball-bearings installed, any case hardening is removed. But they should last quite some time before severe wear would be noticeable. I admit, there's probably no way to determine when freeplay would be detectable. EMPI and other axle makers are actually new - so the surfaces should be properly hardened. I have used 2 of them so far and have no complaints but I admit they are still fairly new-ish. Raxles.com and of course Subaru OEM would be other sources for new units. I can't remember what car you have but, you could pull the stubs with the axle and see how much they wobble in the cup. Then, push the pin out, re-insert just the stub, see how much play there is in the transmission. I know many people complain about the lack of quality with 'typical' rebuilt axles.

seems like severe movement by the stubs would cause gear oil to leak out past the seals. do you have leakage or noise or vibration?

not much snow here, but idoes kinda "offend my sense of order" that first wipe-and-a-half or so are dry. interesting might just require pulling a wire or 2 off of a timer or relay somewhere. or, alternatively, wire in a separate push button just to squirt washer fluid.

let us know, if you don't make any other changes, if you feel they improved anything.

just depends on how 'aged' the rubber ones are. I also have stainless braided hoses on my WRX. But I swapped them when it was only at 1900 miles or less IIRC. I kinda had buyers remorse on those. No detectable difference. (unlike switching to StopTech Street Perf pads, very noticeable improvement with that) But, from what I've read, everyone says if I had put those, or new rubber hoses, on an old car, it likely would have been noticeable due to the 'ballooning' of the old hoses. Basically, think of radiator hoses and alternator belts, they get old right? Refreshing the brake hoses on an old and/or high mileage car just seems right anyway. Since the OP seems to want to do quite a bit of swapping anyway - easy enough to put fresh hoses on the car.

consider new hoses when you swap in the new calipers. and like gg said, TIRES stop your CAR, brakes stop the wheels from turning.

you could also consider getting alloy ones from Kartboy or Whiteline, etc. but that's more $$$

check here; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128439&highlight=frankenmotor

Got the Outbacks' axle swapped out today. I was ready to do the brakes and they have PLENTY of meat left. Somehow I confused myself trying to look through the slots in the caliper so, I'll just keep the pads I bought till i need them in a coupla years - w'ever. Still don't know why the brkae light comes on intermittently, maybe the last time I put pads in, I didn't top off the reservoir correctly. I may just do a flush and bleed anyway, don't recall the last time that was done. Got the WRX back from the dealer with new rear wheel bearing. Not sure why it took them 3 days but got to drive a '13 Outback loaner fro 3 days. Got a 'significant' discount on the work from Bob Moore Subaru too! cool! Now, I have to meet up with a Geico adjuster to claim warranty/hidden damage to the WRX's front stabilizer bar. The way it's bent inwards can ONLY be from the wreck i had last year.

check here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/16823-h6-tensioner-bearing.html