1 Lucky Texan

point taken. Though the 'tree huggers' are just as likely as the 'nazis' to decide I shouldn't drive my car!

possibly PCV hose?

Hmmm...that does seem like air/fuel problem. or TPS. I don't know at what rpm the IAC becomes inactive - maybe someone can tell us. yeah, intermittent problems are the worst!

Is it more consistently associated with cold conditions (not operating temps)? I don't remeber if the front O2 sensor was changed. Does this car have MAP or MAF - ever run a K&N style filter? maybe crap/oil on the MAF filiament. I dunno. Once you get to the point where everything has been replaced, its time to wonder about the replacement components. maybe the Techron is a fluke and this is an intermittent crank or cam sensor? just thinking out loud. maybe if you could manage to stop the car sometime when it starts misbehaving and look at a plug to see if its wet with fuel? Sometimes a vacuum gauge can show sticking valves or intermittent vacuum leaks - mabe a hose is cracked or something? maybe attach a vacuum gauge and drive around for a while? Or maybe the alternator diodes are marginal and you've got ripple on the 12 volts confusing some electronics? Might be worth just going through and cleaning up some ground connections - dude, I got nothing

How refreshing! Most folks just post problems. So far, no MAJOR problems with either of my soobs.

so far, I have no issues with my '06's throttle-by-wire but I DO wonder what kinda safeguards are in place. Aren't commercial aircraft nowadays pretty much EVERYTHING by wire? I guess if it meets or exceeds the reliabilty of mechanical/hydraulic systems I have no problem with it - except it's harder to work on in my garage! It's not like throttle cables can't break or get stuck or brake lines/master cylinders etc. can't go bad. We don't have perfection now - so its unreasonable to compare 'wire' systems to perfection.

Seems odd to me tthat the Techron consistently helps matters(even though its temporary). Wouldn't that point to injectors or possibly ignition? When the car is idling, can you pull, push and twist sensor wiring and create any problems? In what manner were the plugs bad? just worn down? carboned up? etc. I dunno

^^^yeah^^^ Plus, how's the initial 'bite'? Are they OK for daily driving? And how much dust and what COLOR is the dust? (I have white wheels on my WRX) tia

Sometimes there are 'group buys' of aftermarket katzkins (sp?) leather covers at www.nasioc.com . Or maybe find someone who is putting some racing seats in and might sell you their old seats complete. I dunno what models will swap in to your car - someone here or at nasioc will. just another thought

a 93 could easily have bad struts I'd think. As an experiment, put the MAX pressure in the tires and go for a drive. That might take sidewall and traction issues out of the equation somewhat. Uh - temporarily mind you. Of course it will sound and feel differnet, but if the 'swaying' is still present - likely it is suspension parts/bushings and maybe not tires.

Does it smell like toasted marhmallows? (sweet) That's coolant. Also, is it stronger near the driver's door or near the coin tray? I think there have been a coupla fires in OBWs centered near the drivers door - info is still scarce on that though. Maybe some plastic debris or something got caught on the exhaust?

I swear on most cars even today, I can detect throttle lag versus all those carburetted cars I've owned. And it seems like cars are now 'binary' everything is fine and then - nothing. The older cars would be OK, then sorta be sluggish to start or miss a little, then gradually performance would decline - until you decided it needed a 'tune up'. At least we can get a code now to help troubleshoot. But the 80s were the worst! Not really enough sensors and computing power to help, but too 'different' from the old days to be familiar! I sometimes long for a vehicle with only 1 vacuum line (going to the distributer!) and enough room to get IN the engine compartment while working on it!

hah - I once saw a car (sorry - can't recall the model) in an auto museum that had electromagnetic shift. Push in the clucth, push a button for 1-2-3 gear. i think it was late 20s early 30s model!

THAT....is a nmad shame. hope you get back on the road soon.

We once owned a Colt Vista Wagon that had the oil sender switch begin leaking. So I put in an aftermarket one. Got the oil light (BTW - I guess we're gonna use that crazy Aladdin's lamp symbol for a few more generations huh? Isn't that left over from steam locomotive days?) and talked to a mech about the issue. Seems some oil pressure senders have very tiny openings that get clogged easily if some gunk is disturbed in just the right part of the 'circulatory system. And, after getting a look at 3 brands, I could immediately tell a difference. So, yeah, either gunk in the switch or possibly bad wiring?

Yep, that will get pretty close - could possibly throw the - um - track or something off. I guess you would be balancing tire wear against some kinda thrust alignment issue. There are also camber plates which could be installed at the top of the struts - likely not required. I guess they confirmed you have no bent struts or links or other parts? If you have more negative camber - try driving aggressively to even out the wear! hah!

Can they not fit an aftermarket 'crash bolt'? I've read of many people doing this after lowering a car to bring rear camber back closer to spec. basically its the same as the offset bolt described. example:http://www.vividracing.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/65

I suppose you've already tried to narrow down the problem by placing it in failure mode and pulling/pushing/twisting/thumping all the areas of interest? (cables,bulbs,connectors,etc.) If there were no change detected doing the above, I would strongly suspect the trailer wiring 'black box'.

That's a lot of stress on the center differential. Do you experience a jerking/catching feeling when doing tight figure eights in a parking lot?

You might take a look at the pricing and features listed over at http://www.cars101.com . maybe something there about the light s too - I dunno.

You might ask on the appropriate forum at http://www.nasioc.com . Sometimes the marketplace over there will have seats available as folks swap in racing seats too.

If 'real' offroad means mud, gravel,dirt and not rock crawling, most of those will do well. I think the Legacy may have the lowest ride of them. Actually, I think you should check out the OBW, Forester and maybe the Baja. The turbo Foresters are rockets! We like our '03 OBW just fine.

certain bulbs are dual filament and if one 'droops' or breaks and then touches the other filament, you can get some weird lighting issues. I dunno.

Does anyone else drive this car? have u looked at the sidewall and rim closely for 'rash'? maybe someone tagged a curb hard. I dunno

Thepower drops off steeply a few hundred rpm before the rev limit - so actually a lot of cars might have better -what?- 0-60 or 1/4mile whatever times shifting just before the redline anyway. If you were autocrossing and a section could ber run a little easier if you weren't forced to upshift then immediately downshift and decided to stay in the lower gear and bounce off the limiter - well, you're autox ing and if the shop finds out you're racing they may balk at covering warranty work - I dunno. I doubt doing it occasionally is a HUGE issue - at the same time, I doubt doing it regularly is beneficial for 'racing' or necessary for performance.