1 Lucky Texan

If the problem presented itself soon after the above service - definitely look for a poorly reattached hose or the intake filter box dealie not tabbed into its slots. I think I'll go look for some pain meds, thanx for the idea nipper!

I think you have reasonable explanations given the description(especially the change with throttle use). I'd throw in an ill fitting air filter or the box not being clipped in properly over the filter. I wonder if the use of the word 'vibration' is indicating strictly sound or also a feeling? Also, is the sound from the front, under the hood? At 75 you're likely doing over 3100 rpm, does 3100 rpm make the same sound at lower speeds?(in a lower gear of course). seems a clogged cat converter is a good guess. Any 'history' on the vehucle we should know about? like a rich-running condition or recent repair work?

Can you describe the sound better? Are you close to needing pads? usually the indicator makes a squealing noise. have you bounced the corner? possibly a strut bearing dealie (at the top). I dunno

Most likely the reservoir is low on fluid either because of a leak or more likely because you are nearing the end of brake pad life. Either take it in to have the brake system inspected or let us know if you are interested in pursuing this as a DIY project.

You will probably need to take the rotors to be turned/ground. Although some folks find the info to be counter to their beliefs about warped rotors - you might find this article interesting; http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_warped_brakedisk.shtml Do not overlook the possibility you have 2 issues at once - bad tires or a tire with some tread seperation, and bad brakes. Though recently, new pads and rotors on a Dodge I owned cleared up a lot of wheel vibration under braking, which did not cause any noticeable pedal pulsing. In the past, I've had bad tires vibrate when brakes and alignment were OK. just some thoughts OBTW - do Mintex pads dust less or, have a lighter colored dust than stock? I have white wheels and an just asking.

The specs say so 2.5 litre 230hp/235 ftlbs at 3600rpm - but I think the weight went up a little. Overall, I think the vehicle is dyno-ing and performing a little better than the older ones. Its more car than I am driver! But I may take a coupla courses in the spring. There's a run south of here (DFW) monday and I am off that day, but I think I'd like to drive it a little more before I take it someplace where I could destroy it!

just fyi - I finally put a few pics of my car in the gallery.

Well, reconsidering basic questions makes me wonder if the OP has put any odd-sized tires on the vehicle.

Perhaps a new, clean container to catch the coolant in? Just poor it back in.

Sorry if this has already been posted; http://search.ebay.ca/_W0QQsassZcrappalooza no connection, blah, blah - just FYI

Any chance someone could stomp on the brakes while you're observing the caliper? Maybe a bolt is broken or it is twisting in some strange way? Just trying to think about the geometry required to make the pad wear as described. weird

Perhaps this is just an odd failure of a replacement pad? Some material just broke off or something? here's some brake info; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=2004938

Should also be easy enough to swap tires with the front and see if the problem changes or travels with the tire. Is it worse with a sweeping turn one way versus the other? That may pin down a specific side of the car to concentrate on.

good post - if it is more a hum and not a felt vibration - possibly a wheel bearing?

Hmmmm.... I would email Luke at http://www.tirerack.com . Also, http://www.cars101.com would list any changes to the bolt circle/offset. Offset SHOULD change with any width changes. I'm pretty sure only the STI and the Tribeca have 5x114 bc. POSSIBLY the Spec B GT. I dunno if any brake changes were made that could prevent doing what you suggest.

Ignoring for the moment the weird wear on the bottom egde of the pad. Is the thickness of the pad material of the inner pad approx. the same thickness as the outer pad? If so, there must be something more strange than a stuck caliper going on. If the difference is very noticeable, then something is preventing the caliper from sliding.(it slides to bring the outer pad into contact with the rotor such that the amount of force is virtually equal on both sides of the disc. It must be free to slide. Rust or damage could prvent this, or possibly a pinched or bad brake line is acting like a check valve or?????) Has ther been any suspension work done recently or has the car 'tagged' the curb or been off road or hit a pothole? No ABS or other indicators lit on the instrument cluster? What was the last service issue done to the car?

if Vic/se's advice is a no go for you - maybe a set of chains would be a better investment right now than tires. Easy to try the car out both ways, easy to store and relatively cheap. I know it's gonna limit your speed and fun - but it may be the best way out. I dunno

If you can pin down the actual area that squeaks, some SILICONE (not petroleum based) lubricant will help. Look for a dusty area or a different texture where the pices may be moving next to each other. Silicone lube won't attack plastic like most petroleum lubes will. Doesn't smell like oil either.

I would say, based on good logic in previous discussions with Legacy 777 and others here, that the 'duty solenoid C' is functioning fine, and your problem is likely the clutch pack itself. It's worth measuring the circumference of your tires. I suppose, it could be a frozen U joint, though it would still be turning, there would be no power on it. Likely clutch pack is bad.

I SWEAR the other day I heard some squeaking in my '06 WRX wagon! But I don't know if I can reliably duplicate it. I may insist that they at least investigate it so , if it becomes worse in the future, I might get some attention. Mine seemed forward right of center (I'd say slightly right of the center of the pass. seat but maybe not all the way to the door hinge. approx under the windshield. It was kinda brief.

Oh, it didn't quote my 'sig' file in your reply. So, for those of you who may be confused, he is refering to the passage below which is from a sci-fi book. sorry - for the OT but......

I have read of metallic road debris causing some kinda problem between the rotor and the sensor. maybe a good wire brushing? let us know what you find out OK?

good luck with that - I've tried a few times, the emails never get through. meh - maybe my server is blocked but....... fyi

Yeah good luck. I did feel a little guilty at encouraging you to spend MORE money just to satisfy my curiosity. As for fixing an old car, I've always felt that the majority of problems can usually be fixed for the equivalent of 1 to a 'few' car payments. Yeah, its a bummer to have a major failure - and worse to have 2-3 in one year, but its also a bummer to be paying $300 a month for a car payment. And remember, its a used car the instant you take delivery. Its really only a new car when its on the dealer's lot! If it serves your purpose and can be reasonably reliable - just fix it!