1 Lucky Texan

I ocasionally monitor 2 soob forums and a soob usenet group. PS is NOT a known weak point. I don't recall ever hearing about it being a problem. You're just unlucky. My friend's Toyota Highlander blew its PS pump in west Texas - horrible time trying to find a dealership - then he had to wait on a part! sh ! t happens. good luck

Kinda mysterious. Could you go back to the same road and replicate the problem? maybe with a mechanic in the car? Also, how much above the dot was the oil overfilled? Did you check the coolant level? Did you see any smoke and what color was it? I dunno carl

Intake filter or cabin air filter?

http://enews.earthlink.net/article/top?guid=20051005/4344a140_3ca6_1552620051006786193582

If it doesn't smell like toasted marshmallows, it must be oil of some kind or fuel. I vote for PCV valve being bad or on backwards or some weirdenss like that. New parts can be bad.

I think there's a possibility the brake light could be a low brake fluid issue. But the other does sound like an alt. or perhaps other electrical issue as you describe it.

Yeah, I was afraid it might NOT be the alternator. Can you pinpoint the humming at all? Could it be coming from the ABS relay under the hood? Did they read the computer codes? What codes were set? Will the problem not present itself often enough for a mechanic to troubleshoot for you? It may be difficult for you to make any observations that would help us guess the problem. Perhpas, someone on the board could recommend a good mechanic near you. I dunno

I might be tempted to take the alt off, run it down to Autozone or elsehwere and have it tested. That way; 1. you get to experience the procedure involved and 2. you get confirmation that the problem is the alt. If its bad, and Autozone pressures you to buy their alt (but you don't want to), you could say you only get OEM parts - but buy new belts or some car wax from them or otherwise support them. If it ISN'T bad, you'll know how to put it back on and that you need better diagnostic exam for the problem.

Hmmm, I'd heard that Renault seats were comfy. interesting.

keep an eye on that sale. If it doesn't reach some reserve or falls through, make sure you have contacted the guy. just in case

Well, Jamie works at a 'discount' dealership - you could email her at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com Are your calipers not rebuildable? maybe a junkyard could help. I dunno

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=seat+car+auto+lumbar+inflatable

Even the seats in our OBW are poor - though they have a lumbar adjustment, it is positioned a little too low. You have several options, from just rolling up a towel and securing it with rubber bands and positioning it where desired, to aftermarket covers, too installing seats from other soobs or a 'racing seat'. Even though its adjustments are more limted than the OBW my '06 WRX has much better feeling seats. Maybe a junkyard would have some Outback or other seats from a newer model? Or is there an aftermarket seat cover with an inflatable bladder or something?

I was once told that, in those markets where there is a choice of terminals, Diamond Shamrock' corporate policy is to market the best tested gasoline. I think there may only be a few areas that have multiple terminals though. I have also heard that , though there is surprisingly little mixing in the pipeline, that any gas at the boundary between 2 grades will be placed in the terminal tank of the lower grade. So, on occasion, the regular or midgrades COULD be slightly higher octane. But great care is taken to test for the premium and not allow its AKI to be diluted.

Maybe it's just losing its fuel pressure really quiclky or something.

OK, I know I've offered wags before, but I had a thought that is, however, contingent the design of the H6. I wonder if a bad cam angle sensor could create a bank specific code like this? Does this engine have 2 of them? I dunno edit; after re-reading the original post, it seems the engine actually was running poorly correct? How did they determine it was 1-3-5 specific? codes, carbon on plugs? I doubt it's a cam angle sensor now. The ECU uses the cam angle sensor as a 'check' against the crank angle sensor. Did they check fuel pressure/output? I think the pressure regulator is on the end of one of the fuel rails - maybe there's probelm with fuel, just not injectors.

That engine has a 10:1 compression ratio. I'd stay with 91 or better octane if it were me.

WEll, that engine has a timing chain. But i feel your dealership is not good at troubleshooting. I'd be tempted to take to vehicle elsewhere.

You could try an ECU reset after switching to 89. (disconnect the neg. batt. cable, step on the brake pedal for a coupla seconds - wait 15-30 minutes, reconnect and drive normally - expect a little odd starting/performance for a coupla drive cycles - maybe.) It will force the system to try to correct the ignition timing to reduce pinging. Does your manual suggest mid-grade? On most modern soobs, it is likely a false economy to use lower grade gas than suggested in the manual, especially in summer in a hot climate. Use premium for a few tankfulls (after resetting the ECU as described) and monitor for pinging. If it is still severe, perhaps the dealership should replace the knock sensor. If they insist it is normal, ask for the keys to another car and invite the service writer along to test the idea. note; all modern cars may experience very slight pinging under moderate to severe loads and it is considered normal.

I vote bad catalytic converter.

Well, your post is a little confusing. 'carboned' is not really the same thing as burned valves. And I'd expect the plugs to be somewhat diagnostic in their appearance for either of those 2 conditions - especially when compared to the 'good' plugs. You don't mention if they actually found any significant compressions differences, if they checked fuel pressure/delivery, if they checked the coil pack, found a vacuum leak, checked the odd side cam timing, etc. It's kinda difficult for us to help. Do you have another dealership you could take it to? I dunno

I would try to find any ground connections and clean/reconnect them really well. Same for any wire harness connections. If it is still intermmettent, someone will need to wiggle/exercise the wiring and possibly tap on the solenoid to pinpoint the problem. carl

I'd make sure it isn't just an adjustment issue of some kind. i once had to LOOSEN an adjustment on the rear gate of a Colt Vista wagon. It would lock, and load up a long metal rod and spring back when the solenoid released! Probably not directly related to your issue, but try comparing it's operation the the working door. maybe something is a little worn or loose? I dunno Carl

In general, extended warranties are calculated to yield 50% profit. It is a very expensive type of insurance, and most folks would do better just putting the xtra money in the bank to help with future expenditures. BUT, if you muct shop for an EW, try to only get the manufacturer's warranty - less likley to be out of business when you need it and probably accepted at all dealerships. Some 3rd party warranties will not be universally accepted. One possible exception, in some States (Texas for instance) Geico offers an EW that is 100K miles with no time limit. This could be attractive for people who put very few miles on their cars - you could have warranty coverage for 8 years if that's how long it takes you to get to 100K miles. It also allows you to choose your mechanic (IIRC). The better warranties will list exactly what is not covered - then there is no question. If the wastegate is bad, and wastegate is not listed - it's covered. Carl

Try to call/email Jamie at www.subarugenuineparts.com if no one here knows precisely what you need.