1 Lucky Texan

There is honor in ALL honest work. I've scrubbed toilets, and if the marketplace in the future ever told me that was the best thing for me to pursue again I'd do it. Maybe you could pre-sell the DVD of the movie! Put me down for one.

what are the tread demensions of the camera mounts? should be 1/4-20

Don't know about car companies, but a GENERAL rule of thumb in business is ; it costs 8 times more to replace a customer than to keep one.

we have a gallery but one of the mods or an faq somewhere will need to explain how to use it. Over at http://www.nasioc.com there is a frequent poster called uncle scotty that seems very experienced with suspension mods in Imprezas, you could try bouncing you ideas/goals off him. But he likes negative camber.

w3rd (hey look at me with the alpha-numeric, hip-hop, young whipper-snapper slang!) It doesn't matter how many replies there are in the forums to broken sway bars, spewing gasoline, noisy brakes, etc. All the car makers play by the same rules in a given market and the rule in the US comes down (in the case of recalls and probably most TSBs) from a NHTSA directive or the threat of one. If there seems to be a trend - especially regarding safety - you must start complaining to NHTSA so they can track it.

I think the front will adjust . I do think you'll need camber bolts to bring the rear back in. Toe is the most important to prevent wear, but on a 'sedately driven' grocery-getter, excessive neg. camber could lead to uneven wear. Talk to the guys where you get the springs and maybe to your alignment shop. Any shop doing a'ments on sporty cars will be well aware of the issue. If they can't get the camber back to '0', probably anything under neg 1 deg won't be a problem. Toe MUST be 0 in the front, performance drivers sometimes have 1-2 or so toe out in the rear - but 0/0 should be the goal for you I'd guess. When you get it lowered post a pic for us OK?

Time to use one of the 2 phrases I wore out when taking my Windstar back to ford; 1. If they all do it then (looks around-then points) give me the keys to THAT one and I'll see for myself! or 2. If they all do THIS then they are all broken and they all need to be fixed and you can start with MINE!

OK - first make no mistake - I have no experience with this, I hope others here do. BUT, from a lot of reading here and on other forums, what happens when you lower the car, is the geometry of the susp. chages. And by design, when the body comes down, the camber increases (sorta like leaning the tires out to counteract centrifugal force going a round a corner - they way a bike leans into the corner) I guess it's actually called negative camber. Now, that may not be a problem if you drive agressively and use the neg camber to 'balance' the handling of your car. Try reading in the approprate forums and doing searches over at http://www.nasioc.com and http://www.i-club.com and even http://www.subaruoutback.org . There are basiaclly 2 ways to bring your camber back towards '0' . can\mber plates or camber bolts(for the rear). I don't know howmuch camber, if any you want or if the front colts have enough range to bring the fronts back to '0'. Actually, running 1-1.5 or more in the frin and .5-1 or so in the rear, with appropriate toe adjustment, should be OK for some 'agressive' driving. Much more that that, or for a 'grocerry getter' and you're gonna get inside tire wear. The camber plates give the chance to make changes between daily driving and 'track days'.

try http://www.tirerack.com and http://www.subydude.com don't go less than about 48mm offset. (Rotas seem very popular - value wise)

If those springs lower the car much, and you plan to replace the strut mounts, why not get some Noltecs or other adjustables? You will probably need to bring the rear camber back towards zero and ,fi so, will end up buying camber bolts anyway. How much will the springs lower the car?

PM Legacy777 , or do a search on the subject - I think he successfully boosted his alt output.

Why is it ONLY between a Daewoo (Kia wannabe - 'shiver') or a NEW Forester! OK - I vote new Forester - duh. (really, I bet 3,500 would get you a nice mid 90s soob, maybe high mileage but hey, its a soob.)

From wht I've read, the front bar is OK but replacing the front links might be a good idea. The rear bar should probably be 18-19-20 or so. Kinda depens on your goals, and other mods. Don't forget tires. If you are going for xtreem street or racing suspension, try reading some of the trheads at http://www.nasioc.com, http://www.i-club.com and http://www.subaruoutback.org

ALL cars will have worn brakes eventually so I say that's not an issue. You could handle the steering rack with frequent fluid to ups - maybe there is a sealent/additive? I think there is rusty handle repair instructions here on the forums somewhere - try a search Get Autozone to read the CEL, then clear it and see if it comes back. may not be serious if the car runs well and may not return. The duty solenoid 'C' /clutch pack is fairly major but I sometimes ask myself this;"How many monthly paymenyts on a new car would fix my present car?" PLUS - you know it's history - buy another used car and you may get someone elses headache. Investigate code first, work on or patch up the steeing, hatch handle and brakes this summer, fix the tranny before next winter. You might even be able to put it in FWD mode for summer use until you save your pennies for the tranny work. I say fix it - no brainer!

bump! this is your chance to ask about D/R tranny availability, performance parts for 1.8 or 2.2l NA engines, off road bumpers, etc.

http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=49164

cbone - is this a Legacy or Impreza outback? Also, does it overheat at stops then cool down again when moving briskly? If so, could be the fan not coming on.

Check this out; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=5743670#post5743670

It doesn't take much and it isn't a pleasant death. Insoluble oxalates form in the kidneys. Interestingly, if you see you pet drink antifreeze, their best hope is booze. It will interrupt the metabolic chain that forms the oxalate and hopefully the glycol will pass through. better be damn quick though. nasty I might have a deatil or 2 a little confused, Any vets on the board? (curiously, a few months ago I read about an 'anti-drunkeness' pill supposedly made form an old Soviet spy pill that sorta interupts the metabolic path alcohol takes in the body, I emailed them that it should be tested as an antifreeze poison antidote. Got a thank you back but never heard anything else.)

If he can educate himself on how to adjust the 'piggyback' between one or the other I think figuring out a way to run both would be OK. If you can regularly get race fuel, or mix your own with toluene, then it is probably easier to run it all the time. Also, try posting this at http://www.nasioc.com and http://www.i-club.com . LOTS of tuners there.

Although I'm generally satisfied with the OEM-style paper air filters, I do think the BITOG site's somewhat generasl condemnation of K&N-type 'oiled' filters borders on baseless. Increased siilcon in UOA needs to be quantified with particle size. For all I know, those same folks may be using siliconE hoses with an aftermarket intake - or siliconE oil for 'recharging' the filter. Still, I learned a lot from a few hours reading there.

I copied the stuff outta the manual about the plastic panel when I took my oil and filter to my indie mech to change the oil - just in case it threw him off. Seemed to be appreciated. No drips either - but next time I might just take him a new crush washer as you suggest. good post thanx

Is that an Impreza outback? I think there are some Imprezas that have a TSB for this issue. I thought it was only newer ones though - like '03-'04 MYs. I think I read about it at http://www.nasioc.com - try a search there.

The best test is when my car is in the garage and I open the garage door on a bright day. The combination of the dark garage in front and sunlit driveway behind makes the mirror dim qhuite a bit. Maybe the sensore on the front is bad or blocked by a 'visor' strip or something?

bump