1 Lucky Texan

thanx for getting back to us. Carl

I haven't reviewed the entire thread - but you should confirm that the PCV valve/system is not clogged. It may or may not be causing the present oil leaks but would make them worse - and it doesn't affect the list of items needing attention if you go into the TB replacement soon. just a thought Carl

Does his engine have the tensioner prone to 'ticking'? Yeah, a great investment would be some time searching this site for info, links to pictures, etc. And, as suggested, try www.subarugenuineparts.com and email/call jamie (subiegal) for parts/advice. Carl

Nah - holdbacks are more like 3% - 4%(MSRP or some other calciulation - with or without options,etc.) . The ACTUAL COST to the dealer is kinda tricky to figure out and even they don't know til the cars is sold! Carl

If you got this car from a Subaru dealer, you might approach them with something like; "Hey, guys - I KNOW you didn't INTEND to sell me a car riddled with oil leaks but that's what I got. maybe you could cut me some slack on replacing some seals if I decide to let you guys do the timing belt that's coming up soon." Carl

I think folks have experienced the engine temp sensor (not the temp gauge sensor) being bad and keeping the ECU fooled into a 'choke' condition. Carl

maybe Jamie at http://www.subarugenuineparts.com could order one for you. Carl

There have been a few Soobs break their anti-sway bars. Might be worthwhile to confirm that hasn't happened. The Forester shares a lot of components with the Impreza/WRX line so finding all those suspension parts you mentioned is easy because of the high performance parts 'tuners' use. - if you install coilovers,heavier anti-sway bars, lower springs, anti-lift kits, etc. you WILL have a harsher and likely noisier ride in addition to reduced body roll. try http://www.subarugenuineparts.com for some OEM and performance parts check out the suspension forums at http://www.nasioc.com too. Carl

good point I assume those numbers include enviro issues with mining and disposing of the cadmium,lead whatever is in the batteries? Carl

I agree. When they have regenerative braking and can be 'topped up' plugged into the garage outlet overnight, the will impress me more. Hybrids have probably the best future of all 'alternative' systems because they use the existing infrastructure.

Yeah, cars now are like the ECUs in them - binary. They work or they quit. At least with the old stuff, you could kinda tell weeks before hand when a 'tune up' was gonna be needed. And you could fix the car on the side of the road with crap you had in your pocket or in you rgirlfriends purse or from some part of the car not critical (wire from the horn circuit for instance). Still, having a scanner and some sensors makes it better. i guess the worst period was the late 80s or so - blinky lights and cr @ p. Carl

Get it inspected by a good SUBARU-experienced mechanic. If he finds anything wrong, deduct the repair cost from your offer. Your first offer should usually be about 15% less than their asking price. Don't try to negotiate if you're not willing to walk away from the deal - they can smell fear! hah! Carl

Is it a smooth application of braking or is there a pulsing/jerkiness to the way it feels? Do you feel it in the steering wheel (left/right), in the brake pedal or in the 'seat of your pants'? manual or auto tranny? Carl

It's the people who are 'picky' and who complain that help ALL of us. I am still very reluctant to complain - but do so more as I've gotten older. Often, an anonymous letter to a comapny will help with certain types of issues, or asking to speak with a manager, always get people's names, be willing to admit YOU may be wrong - but ask them how THEY would feel in your position, etc. Sometimes just getting their attention is difficult, but often - if you present it as a challenge - most folks will come through for you. maybe the OBDII is making folks lazy! I dunno Carl

great work! I THINK the ticking will be either the TB tensioner or , 'possibly' piston slap. Try searching the forum. carl

You might consider letting the mechanic keep the car for a coupla days and drive it around until the diagnose and fix the problem. If they think it is residue - tell them you'll happily pay for them to go wash it all off at the car wash but that you think they're wrong because of the dripping/ whatever. Also, I THINK there are fluorescent dyes that can be added, to say the engine oil, to help examine where those drops are originating. Doesn't take much oil or grease to create a LOT of smoke/vapor though. I'd make them keep the car until they make it stop smoking. sorry to hear it's still a frustration. Carl

I may not fully understand your complaint. There are some types of brake/turn signal lamps that will cause odd things to happen if one filament burns out but 'droops' inside the bulb and toucehs the other filament. Or maybe you have a ground or wiring problem? Can you be more specific about what is happening, under what circumstances. Also, have you had any work or jump starting or wrecks or mods occur recently? Who examined the alternator? Carl

I have done some looking into this for an upcoming WRX purchase. I feel pretty sure I want a Stromung dual tip. Prodrive, Borla Hush and others get mentioned a lot - Blitz may be too loud. A lot depends on if you want to get noticed at idle, possibly even by the police, or not. And how much 'droning' at highway speeds you can tolerate. at http://www.nasioc.com - search for an exhaust/muffler post by a guy called ' unabomber ' fairly (ahem) exhaustive research! Carl

I did a TAD search, Vandergriff is still the owner of the building Teape is in now. I wonder if Arlington is just temporary digs? Carl

Yeah, Ryan is the man! What color is your Forester? I'll watch for you! Carl

We probably need some more info - but, generally, this would be a recipe for disaster! I suppose you MIGHT do it by disconnecting the drive shaft. Manual or auto? (actually, I THINK the manual can be towed for limited speeds and distance with all 4 on the ground). Carl

If you do have the TB replaced, there are good reasons to have several items in that area addresssed at the same time due to the labor cost. A good Soob mechanic can suggest what else needs replacing or try a search here. Carl

Wow, Ferret's post is really good! You don't mention the car's mileage, could it be due for a timing belt and could that be the problem? Also, is the failure more likely on a damp day or during rain? Does the vehicle have any rusty/corroded ground connections under the hood? Would it ever throw the codes stationary but revved to 3200 rpm? just thinking out loud Carl

Yeah, do a little research. I THINK the VC center diff on the manual tranny cars are a LITTLE more forgiving. BUT - Subaru says 1/4" CIRCUMFERENCE. If possible, have the new tires 'shaved' down - if you can find a shop that does it. Otherwise, get 4 tires. Carl

This touches on the reason the upscale Nissan, Honda and Toyota models are sold under different banners here in the States (Infiniti, Acura, Lexus). Perception. They realized folks would have a problem paying $40k for a Honda (In '78 Honda sold the cheapest car sold in the US, $3000 - I bought one! ) so they created an upscale flag to sell 'em under. If Subaru wants to pursue the 'on-star - navigation - popcorn-and-movie - living room on wheels' business, they should've done the same and created a new line name. Rumor at my closest dealership is that they are selling well. Carl