1 Lucky Texan

We may never know for sure, but I'd guess you had air in the system. I think, if the overflow bottle is ever empty, subes can suck an air bubble in to the radiator, and maybe because of the flow direction, it can be sent through the upper hose into the engine.(IIRC subes flow out the top hose to the engine?) Once there, maybe it insulkates an area longe enough to become superheated causing further expulsion through the cap/o'flow. Since you waithe for it to cool before looking, we don't know if the o'flow tank had any coolant in it. If it did have some, it would've been sucked in after the cooling - um - probably. btw- a meat thermometer and a pan of hot water will tell you if a thermostat is working. Just turn up the stove and see if it opens at/near the correct temp.

I think if you have a bad crank and/or cam sensor you won't get spark. Maybe one ha sbeen bad for some time and now the other is bad? justa wild guess.

I bought my M1 10-W30 at walmart and my Pureone filter at pepBoys and took them to my indie mech. 10$ later I'm out the door.

I'm with applegump, I've always felt that twice a year was the least frequent I'd ever go bewtween changes. Especially here where we have extremely hot summers. However, if this is going to be your regular pattern for a long time, you might consider changing to full synthetic and the best filter you can find (silicome anti-drain valve). I suppose 'extended drain interval' can be interpreted to mean time as well as mileage. You might post/search over at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com You might consider adding a gas dryer occasionally and trying to keep the tank over 1/2 full to reduce water condensation possibilities.

Aren't there like FIFTEEN verb tenses in Finnish? Bet it's hard to learn.

Those MRT guys have some cool stuff. You could investigate real dyno tuning and maybe some (toluene) higher octane gas/more boost. Advice about the tranny crops up all over - do not try any stunts/'launch techniques'. search around over at http://www.nasioc.com and http://www.i-club.com

Just in case; http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=478 I'm sure you'll get it one way or the other. post back when you're done and give us the run down OK? Carl

MAN! - I can't quite remeber excatly where I saw them, but I'm pretty sure somoine makes aftermarket brackets. Maybe kartboy or kastle or sdpusa. Try searching the archives here and over at http://www.i-club.com and http://www.nasioc.com

maybe a smaller alt. pulley?

Round up the usual suspects! karboy whiteline etc. Check over at http://www.i-club.com and http://www.nasioc.com

This probably (guessing here) means most of the gas in the system was well away from heads ana cylinders so I doubt you'd have any seriously overheated ares in the engine.(Unless that's the only place coolant crosses over!) But It is still a weird thing. Why wouldn't the gas just stay up there? HEY! That might be a good place to bleed the system in future coolant changes! You may have discovered a solution to coolant refill problems!

Just finished re-reading the thread. At one point you did say you were watching bubbles coming out the O/F tank with the engine running. If it does do this perhaps it is time for a sniff test and/or a cylinder compression test. Um, after the engine is shut off, does coolant get sucked back in from the O/F? I would expect any overhated air in the system would contract quite a bit and pull in some coolant. These are the cycles I would expect are 'normal' for this engine that setright and others refer too. Perhaps there is some restriction or debri sin the overflow tube itself? Or some type of weird oneway leak allowing air to be pulled in instead of coolant? After you changed the thermostat, was everything OK? Did you notice a notably lower postion on the temp needle? Have you ever seen one of the rad hoses collapsed?

I would say you still have trapped air and it very possibly could've been the whole issue. Did you or the dealer recently do a coolant flush or otherwise have a reason to open the coolant system? I have read where some folks will drive the front wheels up on ramps to help 'burp' the system. Or maybe one 'side' to get air to crossover?Or somehow pulling a vacuum may help (though I suspect hoses would collapse before a hard vacuum would form). maybe it would help to also ensure the climate control is set on 'heat' to get flow through the heater core? Sounds like someone should make a crossover pipe with a bleeder in it. you're to be commended for sticking to this and I appreciate you posting back. Sorry it wasn't the rad cap.

I guess you inspected/wiped off the 'lip' in the neck that the cap seals on? The 'lower' one I mean. If there is a gap/erroded place in the lip, it wouldn't seal. Never thought of it before but could be an issue. Perhaps someone here knows if there are many different rad caps in use on soobs - maybe they just stocked them incorrectly or something? good luck.

My old Datsun SRL 311 would just NOT go into reverse reliably so got into the habit of slipping into 2nd before rev. Worked really well. Some datsun mech. told me to try it. I've seen it mentioned here too. Maybe a different/syn. gear oil would help too.

No way to know without a weight figure. IF they are the same design,alloy, manufacturer then the 14" will weigh less. Probably not even 10% difference though.

Some newer inline 4s are tricky to bleed I hear. A mech. told me about a Toyota that has to have about a gallon put in the rad, some poured down the upper hose into the block, then a heater hose removed until coolant starts to run out. My old Civic had a brake-looking type bleeder that you were supposed to loosen til coolant shot up. maybe Subaru needs something like that somewhere (where?).

try eBay for remotes but FCC numbers on the back or something have to match.

I need to 'tattle' on myself. All the talk of headgasket problems here and on other forums sorta had that issue in the forefront of my conciousness when the Dodge Avenger that is my daily driver (hopefully to be replaced early next year by probably an OBS) started 'gurgling' after any lengthy trip. No temp gauge abnormalities, no major coolant loss. Always just 2-3 seconds of gurgling after stopping. I thought - "Geez I do NOT want to fix headgaskets and then sell this thing in a few months" - but after really thinking about the problem I realized I had no other sysmptoms that should be assoc. with a bad HG. No oily reside nor driveability problems no sweet smelling exhaust no white exhaust vapot no choc. 'mousse' on the oil cap/dipstick no bubbles in the radiator itself. So i just stopped by and spent $8 on a rad cap from Autozone and 'Voila!' no more gurgling! This was 2 weeks ago so your very detailed post led me to conclude (accurately we hope) that you have a bad rad cap. The less well/strongly they seal, the more towards 'normal' boiling point the coolant's vapor pressure moves. Probably, a little latent heat(in a head near an exhaust valve matbe?) after shutting the engine off causes a 'geyser-like effect' and after the 'phase change' removes heat from that location all goes back to normal again. Still, I suppose I could've been wrong (shudder!)

I don't think it would be inappropriate to let us know who this dealer was or, in your feedback (which I know has limited space) to just put a link to this thread! Great for the dealer and for the usmb! Anyway, it is good to see that you're happy with your experience, I would've been living on antacids! And I agree the folks on this board are very helpful and supportive. I've learned a lot.

bad radiator cap.

Even though it's low miles doesn't mean it couldn't have a split CV boot slinging grease. Or you may have simply run over/into some material that got onto the exhaust.

I've looked at a few sites selling wheels and weight is hard to locate. I DID find one site where some alloys were in the 15-20 pound range and one manufacturer were down to 11 pounds! I have a lot of questions about wheels; weight to strength to cost wise. I'd imagine an 11 pound wheel would be a bad choice for rallyX but?

Supposedly, mail delivery vehicles can have the curbside tire in the leaves, mud, water, gravel of the gutter so much that slippage there causes the 'streetside' pads to do more work. I think it is normal for the inner pad to wear a little faster than the outer pad on all wheels because of the pistons being in direct contact with that side.