1 Lucky Texan

Chip, I'm not familiar with the actual failure mode for MAFs and it may be it takes a ling time for them to fail if a little oil gets on them. However, even if alias missed the 9K mile difference doesn't make his tone anything other than neutral. His posts are often very helpful and he defintely does not have a history or reputation for being condescending. His being new to the board, trying to communicate in text only, and perhaps missing a detail in your post doesn't mean he isn't respectful. I hope your MAF is OK - seems like it should be, but it can be a failure mode I suppose seperate from the oiled filter too.

Well if you open up the original post to all engine choices, there is some merit to going with a ground up custom VW style engine. And, you cannot compromise on cooling the soob engine either. You may need to consider weight issues as well. An EJ20t would be cool if the rad can be worked out!

subytub, there is a thread over at http://www.nasioc.com about cams and mods on the 2.2l . Also, maybe http://www.paeco.com can offer some advice. Also, you might search at http://www.i-club.com , http://www.obsportal.com I've been so many places on the web trying to educate myself for the probable purchase next year of an OBS that I'm losing track of where I've been! Also MRT and other places in Oz have complete stroker kits and other stuff for the 2.2l maybe they would respond with an email?

Do you have a link or other info on the cam?

WD-40 is almost all Stoddard solvent (de-oderized kerosene) with a tiny amount of 'proprietary' substance that is commonly believed to be silicone. I don't think it would be the best stuff for the rubber seal application here. If you do use it, shake the can before spraying. Um - guys, when you use the silicone, would you use it normally before or after any car waxing?

I'm sure others will reply with more specific info. I have read that the H4 filter is 'dished' in such a way that some filters do not engage enough threads. The H6's filter 'seems' to be a little more standard. If you get the Purolator part numbers for them and do a 'reverse lookup' at the Purolator site, many cars use the H6's filter (a LOT of Honda's - so any larger filters known to fit them may fit the H6, increasing its capacity too!) but the H4's part# seems limited mostly to soobs. It's been awhile since I looked all this up. Hope I got it right. Still, it may just be a matter of finding/making a longer 'stud' to replace the one in the H4. And of course it must clear any obstructions near the mount area.

Pardon me for butting in here but I happened to notice; http://home.att.net/~teaguesauto/parts1.htm has some brat T-tops and a little other used stuff for sale. fyi

Some of your post confuses me, but it sounds like you have a relay or maybe a wiring problem. If wiggling some cables around doesn't make the lights flicker then I'd definitely try the relay.

Well, the WP would be anyone's first guess but it is hard to believe if it was replaced recently. You'll have to go in there to confirm I guess but, could this be a head gasket external leak out the 'front' ?

alias is THE MAN! best post ever - a pleasure to read. thanx

In the old days we used Berrymans B-12 but it involved pouring it into the carb while jooking the throttle up to keep it from choking, then puposely stalling it bu dumping the las 1/3 of the can in fast. Let it sit for 1/2 hour or so before starting. Seemed to help about 1/2 the times I used it. Other times I think I was 'hoping' for a 'mechanic in a can' fix. I think brake fluid and even water have been used to some success. Sound like a spray can would work well, especially if some 'high tech' new stuff has been developed. thanx for the reports too.

On 2-3 occasions when I built something for myself (LED xmas lights, pirate TV antennas,etc.) I would always build 2-3-4 of them and test then sell the xtras - that way mine was usually free!

IIRC 1mm is about 40 thousandths. I think your plugs may be OK. Do turbos need a smaller gap? If you are experiencing missing maybe the problem is elsewhere?

Thanx! Even though the OBS (as confirmed by your post - thanx) has more 'off-roady suspension' would it use the same rear antisway bar as the other Imprezas from that MY series? How about a rear strut tower brace? Sounds like the wheelbase is the same so I guess exhaust is the same as other Imprezas? thanx again

MAN! how frustrating. ok - just throwing out a couple guesses. How did the plugs look? any sign of carbon ? I'm wondering if you could have carbon built up or even some burnt /leaky valves? Was compression OK? Maybe having a shop trhow a scope on the high voltage? just to see if it is low? good luck buddy

OK - I'm a noob and maybe a little lazy, so, let me display my ignorance by asking some dumb questions; OBS - is this Impreza Outback Sport wagon? is there such an animal as Outback Sedan? What is an Impreza L wagon? in what way would it differ from the the Imp. Outback wagon? What is a TS Sport wagon? In general, I am slowly shopping for an Impreza sized wagon, probably MYs '98-'01, so what are they? what are they called?, how do they differ? I've read that RS (Impreza 2 door coupe?) mods will fit the Imp. Outback wagon. Does that mean the exhaust is the same length/shape? I know the wagon has drum brakes in the rear, are the front brakes the same as the RS? Was there a four door Imp. sedan in those MYs and does it share any frequently modded components with the wagon? I've read the rear suspension is taller than the coupes but what about anti-sway bars? Are they the same? tia

SUPERB post alias! This should be put some place permanent by a mod. thanx

In the 'old days' there was a couple vehicles/times I had to hold the release out and use that pedal as THE brake pedal. Damn Ford galaxy master cylinder! How about those ratcheting ones you twist to release? had to hold one of those twisted to apply brakes once as well. OH - one weird thing me and my dad did once, driving up to Page from Phoenix the accel. cable in the International travelall broke at the pedal. I laid in the floor board with a pair of pliers on the cable nub waitong for my dad to yell instructions like STOP! or GO-GO-GO NOW G@dda@mmit! He was a little pissed. At least he didn't use my head for a pedal!

sohc 2.2L MAY (do a search, there's still some controversy) be about the only engine that isn't interferential. Usually the engines that do exhibit interference are DOHC and it is valves that hit. But Emily says valves and pistons can collide on some soob engines - lots of conflicting opinions. I wish we had a list from FHI that we could 'sticky' because this comes up often.

I know you'll get it running, I'm just brainstorming here. I guess the voltage actually powering the ECU stays good during cranking - the SIGNAL out to the ign. is what drops? If so I misunderstood the other post. good luck - I bet you're close.

Where's the current drop during cranking? You may have a cable about to break or some under sized wiring. The fuel pump is probably off during cranking because the voltage drops too much. maybe the starter or battery is bad? Sneak path to ground?

HEY! If they ARE worried about a lawsuit, get a buddy to buy, say - the engine and tranny, then YOU buy the rest! They get to show 2 bills of sale, you're gonna probably go throught the engine anyway, then just pay you buddy for his stuff, fix it up, reassemble, title and "You'll have a Ride you can drive with Pride!"

Is there a fuel cut-off like when you have a wreck that could be an issue here? I mean, what tells the ECU you had a wreck so it can cut-off the fuel? maybe the airbag system or something? just a guess

Depending on how you're checking for spark, you could have coolant (or vaporized exhaust valve metal) on your plugs, or a bad crank angle sensor, or melted plugs/plug wires or broken TB or ? Start with what we know happens with severely overheated engines. follow alias's advice and confirm good compression first You quite likely could have holes in pistons, melted valves, scored cylinders, broken rings, warped heads, blown gaskets, and need an oil change. Spark is a secondary concern.

So make an offer on the engine, tranny, front clip,doors,and seats and see if they'll throw the rest in for free. Trust me there is a way they could sell it to you. maybe a new title, maybe they've never done it before and they're ignorant of how to do it, but there MUST be a way. Even without a title, they could sell it to you with a bill of sale maybe and you could title it if you get it running. Do some research.