1 Lucky Texan

How much was this kit and what is the part number? Oh - and what size ball is it? tia Carl 1 Lucky Texan

There WAS a time (maybe just 2-3 years?) when higher octane gas was 'better' in the sense that a: performance cars had the injectors, regular cars had carbs. and b: injectors needed more/better detergents in the fuel. and c: high performance ALSO meant high compression. So all that meant, high octane fuel WOULD actually clean a 'family-type' car's fuel system. But it didn't do anything else positive (oh sure, the rare vehicle that had some mid-range compression could have it's timing altered to get a couple more ponies). Also, does anyone remember Ethyl? NO not HER! I'm talking about tetraethyl lead. It was an antiknock agent (IIRC?) and higher octane gas usually had more of it. So sometimes, if your old beater starting knocking from a bad tune up or more likely carbon buildup, switching ot higher octane (or brands) would sometimes clear up some knocking/misfiring. So you THINK the high octane is 'better'' when you actually need some car maintanence. cars now are kinda binary. They work - then they quit (thogh there are now more vehicles that will limp home than -say- a decade ago). I think it's because of the computer system. In the old days a car would very gradually start gouing downhill until you just couldn't stand it and did a tune up. Also, much easier to get going again on the side of the road with a paper clip, or some wire from the horn circuit, or a small sheet metal screw or something. MAN! - did I start ramblin or what! Carl 1 Lucky Texan

IF it's a misfire in the same cyl. you may be able to sequentially (carefully!) remove spark plug wires one at a time. When there is no change (or it doesn't die) you've found the bad cyl. Still, it does seem like something more 'general' in nature. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If you're othherwise interested in the car you have some ways to proceed - is there any warranty left that transfers to you? Would the dealership give you a warranty that would specifically cover whatever you think IS the cause of the noise. Would the dealership allow you to take the vehicle to a Soob mechanic for a thorough exam? (recommended anyway) You don't mention why you think it isn't a belt as they say. You could perhaps show up on their lot with a can of Belt Ease and say "Show me".. Be a 'grinder'. Make them put so much time in with you that they will do anything to close the deal. BUT you MUST be willing to walk away from the deal. Multiple test drives. repeat questions already answered. Get the VIN from them on the phone 2-3 times - claim you lost it. Bring a friend to drive it. If possible, call the previous owner and ask them if there's any reason you shouldn't buy the car. It's not theirs anymore, they're usually honest. Try EVERY accessory. Make note of tire,battery and other 'consumables' that you will nedd to spend money on. PLAN on spending 200-300 bucks on it (hopefully less) after you buy it. Fluid changes, diagnostics, brakes, tires(?), etc. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I haven't had it long. There is a 'trip report' thread here somewhere if you can find it. hard to say what to watch out for even as I have had no major or even moderate problem - hasn't been back to the dealer and if I take it back I'll have 3-4 minor things to discuss. I like driving it more and more and of course I have high expectations for it. Due to the AT , the torque curve, and normal fuel injection response lag, you won't be launching outta the hole with it, but on the highway its a great medium sized cruiser with a lot of speed/passing reserve. We wanted a wagon with some cargo room because of doing a handful of hobby related shows a year, I wanted the AWD for the general safety/utility (snow/ice is rare but troublesome in N. Texas) and the possibilty of going offroad 1-2 times every 1-2 years (rockhounding). Complainst about the design are minor so far. Cupholder position causes you elbow to get onto drinks. The computer seems very sensitive to minor issues but I mostly have that under control now. I use mid-grade gas though the one tank of regular never knocked or caused any problems. The sightlines were a little odd but I now am comfortable with my mirrors and visibility. I moved the rearview as high as I could but my wife always wants to swing the pass. visor down and it hits if I have the mirror up high. Just little quirks. Look for the OBW trip report and maybe some otehr folks will respond too. my overall score so far? say - B+ Carl 1 Lucky Texan

In the old days we used Berrymans B-12 for that carb-sucking, choke it to stall with the last half bottle- routine. Tehn let it sit for a while. I guess the Berrymans would sit there and help loosen crap. I've heard of a guy that used beer!. It may just be the shock that knocks the carbon off. I suspect you'd get a good idea if it would help by looking for carbon/soot on your plugs first though. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I paid just under 25K for my '03 OBW H6 AT (no VDC) a coupla months ago. fyi Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If you have eliminated the possibilty of swapping a fuse or a relay(if it even applies) then you certainly could use a voltmeter or even one of those lamp testers with the sharp probe to see if there is voltage being applied to the siren. Check the parts store, they should have one. just clip to a good ground and stick the point through the insulation (better to touch the connector if you can get to it). and see if is flashes when you 'break in'. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

What year did Subarus switch to the new refrigerant? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

You deserve a big round of APPLAUSE!!! I wish I had your dedication, I woulda' let the dealer have it I think. Though there was a time in my life when I HAD to fix the '48 Willys, the '51 Chevy(that thing ATE generators!), the '78 Civic that sucked a valve in cylender #2, the '64 Ramb - well- other car issues in my life) 'cause of no money but I guess I've gotten lazy and stiff as I've gotten older. Also, I think this thread will be helpful for folks in the future too. I learned a lot. You have helped unknown future Sube owners and they OWE YOU MAN! good job Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Brian, if he used the FWD fuse under the hood would that help in diagnosing the problem? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

A few posts up LorryB confirmed that a tab was broken off. Even if there are other confusing issues, it won't start now. I doubt a reliable fix for the existing gear is possible. So, over on marketplace or at a local junkyard ,a used one might be found. Otherwise, a new one will need to be purchased. too bad - but I think you're close! Also, it probably isn't a problem, but can any of you other guys explain about the tenisoner? Is it gonna 'pump up' like a hydraulic lifter? If so, what keeps up from being to loose when the engines starts? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Where's the crank angle sensor on this engine? Could it be damaged/disconnected? I'd confirm spark/fuel again. Did you try the trick with a strip of paper at the exhaust to see if it gets sucked in when cranking the off-timed engine? Maybe it would show you an out-of-time indication now if you think the timing is drastically out of sync. Probably need a helper to crank the engine though. Hope you get it running soon. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If its like my OBW, there is a connector under the driver door sill that is used to engae/disengage the 'passive arming'. I've gotten used to using the driver door switch and closing it last, but my wife complained that this car DOESN'T passive arm like her Windstar did. I just didn't tell her about the option. ;^) There's little danger of her finding it in the manual - based on previous experience. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I wonder if a 'weak' or clogged PCV could cause oil to 'go' somewhere? (valve guides?) Is that the only symptom? Cylinder wash down from a bad injector could maybe cause high oil consumption. just guessing Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Of course no one can tell you how long it will last, but from an engineering point of view, having an axis that something can now vibrate/move around is usually a recipe for disaster. That third bolt was preventing that. You now have a line instead of a tripod support. Any movement will be concentraed between the 2 remainig supports. Fix it soon. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

check eBay but others have pointed out the importance of getting the same FCC number on the back of the remote. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Take your vehicle back to Autozone (or similar) and have them check the alt voltage. maybe it's too high. In most of Texas, 3-4 years is max lifespan. I wonder if higher than normal temps on the east coast has killed some batts.? I've read that high CCA batts dont like the heat and high reserve capacity (like those for the South) don't tlike th cold - but regardless I hope you got some pro-rated consideration on the warranty - that is VERY short lifespan under any conditions. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Could you or a family member have driven through deep water recently? Here's a WAG - If the tranny gets cooled off by being submerged in deep water, contraction can suck water inside that could vaporize at operating temp causing a 'geyser' like effect - um I GUESS. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I don't know if I can help, but others may be able to if you give us some more info. You say it couldn't have been overfilled 9 months ago. Did you look? Also, what is the level now(after the 'burp')? Did you get a CEL or an AT Temp light. Did you check any other fluids to be sure that's where the smoke came from? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I had a Toyota burn through a <3k old timing belt when I was hundreds of miles from home because I wanted to 'save money' and didn't change the tensioner bearing. My personal feeling s are - if you really need the highest reliabilty, you change everthing that is turned by or runs against the TB (within reason of course) AND every seal you can get to. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

....at http://www.freebmw.net/share/CarsBoatsBikes/Subaru/FSM/ might not be up long! Carl 1 Lucky Texan

HEY! I just remembered reading posts about the harmonic balancer not getting enough torque when its reinstalled, something about the books all being wrong. Do a search for that thread and see it it may have applied to your engine. just a heads up Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I think you should GO to the dealership and have then SHOW you why they think the crank is bad. I agree that sounds a little weird unless its something like that keyway issue. Unless you heard noises (not rough running - actual metal on metal sounds) then the valves should be OK. If this is a SOHC engine, from what I've read, the valves won't hit each other anyway. If you have the skills, time ,inclination, fix it yourself. I certainly wouldn't have this dealership do the work UNLESS they can 'buy' you confidence after some 'face time'.. good luck Carl 1 Lucky Texan (thanx for the update!)

So, my '03 OBW won't need an inspection sticker for 2 years. When it does, will they find a dual dyno setup for it, do some kinda abreviated emissions test without a dyno or use the FWD fuse and test it like a FWD car? Carl 1 Lucky Texan (D/FW area)