1 Lucky Texan

Please prove that this IS the ULTIMATE board by answering any or all of these you can; 1. Most or all Subarus got r134a refrigerant in MY '94 2. Either as an option or standard, most Impreza models could have a 2.2l engine in MYs '95 - '01 3. Subarus got OBD2 in MY '95

If you have not done so, I'd try searching the internet, and asking the SOA zone rep. if there is a class action suit or funds set aside or other remedies available. There must be a LOT of folks out there that bought those policies.

Short term - start with about 2psi over the 'door post' recommendation - adjust for ride/handling/load - BUT monitor tire wear closely. As a general rule - for the same vehicle weight, going to larger tires means a bigger 'patch' on the road and lower pressures. But there are a lot of variables like sidewall stiffness, centrifugal forces at high speed, changing loads etc. good luck

I took a brief look over at NASIOC (I need to look around some more) but feel those guys are mostly WRX/STi types. Is there a page,board,group somewhere that is Impreza Outback wagon - related? I may shop for a '96 or newer and would like to educate myself about those vehicles. tia

Rust? Nah they don't usually rust in Texas - they don't survive the hail and Tornadoes long enough to rust! (LOL) But I suppose a car could show up that had spent time elsewhere. I missed cheking out a MT Impreza. I may go look at one after work today that's AT - more to get an idea of what I'm looking for. I'm not opposed to getting an AT but am not in a hurry either. Are the ATs from the mid-90s troublesome? thanx guys for trying to educate me.

Also, are '95 Imprezas gonna be OBD2 ?or have R134a freon? I know you guys think the A/C question is crazy but it gets really hot here. Hot enough to have a severe headache driving home from work if you don't have A/C in August. tia

That age car could have a problem almost anywhere. Also, don't assume that whatever(waht was it?) they fixed the first time was done well/correctly either. Is the smell stronger in one area than another? Is there a 'wet/black' or shiny clean spot somewhere surrounded by dirt? Have you placed cardboard or newspaper under the vehicle and let it idle for a awhile?

Sometimes I can do a little auto work myself(much less now than in the past), sometimes I want to take a vehicle to the dealer (it's nice every 2-3 years in case there are some tsbs or recalls I missed - less likely nowadays with the internet though), sometimes I get a coupla' 6 packs for a buddy or trade some jewelry I made, or help him with a fence or something and sometimes I go to the Vietnamese mechanic who charges $53 an hour instead of $72. It all depends. And remember, the more cars you have the more likely at any one time you'll need to be fixing a car. Especially if you buy some elses 'headache'(which may use oil too.). If you intend to get rid of the Subie, consider parting it out - probably some folks here on the boards would be customers! good luck

Don't just inspect the fuel line and injectors. The carbon canister and purge valve (and it's tubing) can sometimes be cracked or malfunctioning, causing gas vapor to get out. Um - did I miss what the model is and year/mileage on the car? Might help folks pin this down a little.

If I looked at a '96 Impreza AT and drove around in tight circles (after confirming no mixed tire sizes) what would the AT sound/feel like if it were bad? Is a '96 gonna have R134a coolant? 2.2l engine?(I understand the plugs will be in the middle of the valve covers if DOHC but are the plugs on the top side of the SOHC?) In the future, could a MT be swapped into this car? DR MT? Are there lift kits for this vehicle? (i'm thinking - make that dreaming - rallycross) It would mostly be a daily driver but might get some upgrades slowly along the way.

I assume all other electrical items are OK when this happens? If not it could be an alternator, ground or other more general issue.

If I end up being sucked into the Subaru universe completely, in addition to our new acquisition ('03 OBW H6) I might shop for a replacement for my '96 Dodge Avenger that I hate even though it was a huge leap forward from my '81 Civic wagon with no air and no radio.(My Mom gave it to me after she stopped driving). So, assume I'd like to get R-134a and avoid the 2.5l 'death gasket' engine. I assume we're talking about a '96 or thereabouts? Which vehicles have the 2.2l? can you tell from the VIN? What were the models called? Which ones would be good daily drivers but might lend themselves to offroad fun? Do Subes have cartridges or do you have to buy whole struts? Should I expect to find worn out struts/steering gear? Wagon prefered but sedan OK. What to watch for avoid? Common problem areas, rust areas. I have done light/medium engine/chassis work in the past but nowadays find it painful to crawl around under vehicles much so some kinda' reply like; 'don't worry about XYZ cause you can just put it up on jacks and change that yourself' replies will be met with a groan! All advice appreciated - mainly I need Subaru specific education!

If you have a leak under pressure, as opposed to - say - a bad pan gasket, it may drip out only when the engine has run awhile. You didn't mention anything about your car but an older vehicle could have a bad pressure sending unit or a clogged PCV valve/hose which might cause leaking while the engine is running. If you let the vehicle idel for a while would you get consistent drips in one spot? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If you otherwise like (and trust) the car - $1500 is like - what - 4 payments on a new car? And sometimes even they need to go to the shop for a few days(under warranty, but still, you're making payments on something you can't drive). Sorry it wasn't just the rad cap. At one time, maybe that was the problem and you ran a littel dry or had air in the system? good luck Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If California requires a front plate, see if they'll let you find/make some arms or something to mount it on instead of just screwing into the plasic bumper like they did my OBW here in Texas! Still p*sses me off when I see other cars with nice plastic bosses or brackets for the front. If you're getting a wagon go ahead and get the deflector on the back - it will get dusty. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

The cap should only allow fluid to go into the overflow tank under pressure. But the little 'button' in the center of the cap should alllow flow back from the OT easily. That's why something has to be pretty bad to collapse a hose. Also, if a Subie ever needs a lot of fluid put back in it, it's a good idea to park on a severe incline/ramps (nose up) and run the engine to normal op. temp. and monitor the amount of coolant going in closely. Then double check the rad. and overflow 2-3 times after that. Others may have more details but I've read here that it's sometimes tricky to get all the air out. good luck! Carl 1 Lucky Texan

PLEASE stop a second and consider that the rad cap should allow suction back from the overflow tank. It may be bad(or the overflow hose is clogged) and would be just about the easiest DIY fix in the world! Of course, this doesn't mean there aren't other problems, and I suppose it depends on which hose is collapsed but at least consider it before going to the shop. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I know they claim the H6 3.0 is a 'new' design but, since 3.0 is 50% more than a 2.0 H4, its reasonable to expect they would've borrowed at least SOME of the geometry/design approach used in that or a similar sized engine. Maybe that gives it a little better chance at avoiding the head gasket problem that seems to be plagueing the 2.5 . Still, there may be so few out there it's too soon to say much. So far, I like mine, though I think the AT and the cruise control behave crudely, compared to other cars I've had. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I admit its been a while since I read about the quality issue but Consumer reports could find no difference in the quality of Hondas built in Japan versus the US (don't know if you have a choice anymore but some time ago they were sold in parallel). Also, at one time Toyota's most efficient engine plant was in the US. I really think engineering is as big and maybe bigger issue in the differences between 'American' and 'Japanese' cars than the ethnicity of the assemblers. Unions (or lack of) may be a factor too. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I'm generally pleased with my '03 OBW H6 AT. do a seasrch for 'OBW Trip Report' and read my post. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Does your car have an antenna in a glass window? I think I read where those may have a remote amplifier of some type and could perhaps have failed/lost a ground or something. Or does your sound system have a remote amp that has lost a ground? Even though your radio is off, try pulling the fuse too. just guessing Carl 1 Lucky Texan

You may need to reset the ECU since you're rerporting a significant change in behavior now. The computer may have 'learned' an incorrect setting. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Perhaps the A/C system is overfilled or a sensor is bad? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

What if the plug itself were broken/cracked? Or the plug wire bad? A friend had an old Dodge Laser/whatever that would crack plugs in one certain cylender regularly - wierd. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Maybe some problem with the rad cap coupled with a split in the overflow hose? Hard to say. Carl 1 Lucky Texan