1 Lucky Texan

Thanx Commuter, I think I got my post backwards. The PureOne filter is what I got. PL14488 or 89 something like that. Anyway, should be good enough. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

There are at least 2 'grades' of Purolater filter. The one I got for my OBW had the 'L' in the part number. I think that means it has the ant-drain valve or something. Got mine at Pep Boys and my Mobil 1 at Wally World. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I myself am new Subaru owner and a first time all/4wd owner, and have learned a LOT from this group. Make SURE the tires on your car have almost identical circumference or you can create 'torque bind' and severely harm drivetrain components. Um - confirm you have normal engine temp readings and normal coolant level. I'm sure others wil have advice more specific. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thanx Emily! So, is it the late 2. - wait... OK, is the presence of solid/hydro lifters an indicator? is there a LIST of EXACTLY which engines are NON-interferential? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

recently used bosch on a couple (non-soob) cars. I like them. good value. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

OK - I'm very sorry. After re-reading I see my mistake. When you returned you saw a work ORDER. For some reason I thought no work was done at all and you found the car as you left it - THEN complained and got the work done. Actually I see now it was 'cool'. just odd the SOA guy didn't drive it - but he may have been a busy guy. sorry for the confusion. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If I understand this, there had to be a conspiracy of at least 2 people (likely more) for this to happen and you STILL let them work on your car? That SOA rep needs to be fired and that dealership needs new management and maybe a few new faces. talk about stealerships. What else would they do if they'd do this? *ssholes Carl 1 Lucky Texan

From reading, it's my impression (and I hope someone will confirm) that, in Subaru engines, the interference comes from valves striking each other. That is, there may (anyone) be no Subaru engine that will hit piston to valve. Also, (again from reading and looking at drawings of engines) the interfderence engines have dual overhead cams (4 cams per engine) and this calls for a more acute valve angle such that they can hit each other under TB failure conditions. I've seen NO mention of lifter 'style' changing this fact. If you have 1 cam per 'side'. It's non-int. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

OK - how do you refer to the odometer reading? klicks? "That car has low klicks for a '92."??? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

That's weird. You gotta find out what would cause that. Also, I assume when you rplaced everything you were careful about torqueing the lugnuts and stuff? maybe someone else has a thought but I'd really investigate the caliper assembly and assoc. 'stuff'. Might even try swapping front rotors and throwing in new/different pads. I hope someoone else responds. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Yeah, I've been kinda dreaming about a used Sube for myself (we are new to Subaru and the '03 H6 OBW is really my wife's though I'll probably end up putting 1/2 it's mileage on it - hey, how do folks accustomed to metric refer to 'mileage' on cars?) adn wonder about the '96 and up YMs. W.Virginia probably doesn't get a s hot as Texas but I was told the R-134a wasn't used in Subes before '96 or so. That would be a concern for me. So what engines are in '96 and up? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Did you recently; 1. make a 'panic stop' or otherwise heat up the brakes 2. change brake pads 3. remove and replace the rotors Sometimes the pads can leave material on a hot rotor after an 'incident' of quick deceleration. Incorrect or over torqued lug nuts might cause a problem too. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If he's reluctant PLAY that up! Good cop bad cop. Put the money you saved from bargaining in a maintanence and repair fund. Hope you won't need it! (we all know you're getting that car - you just haven't done the paperwork yet - your husband is doomed) Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Keep in mind almost eevryone expects to 'bargain' down 10-20% . Rule of thumb on houses is your first offer should be 15% or more lower than asking. Make a nuisance of yourself. Call and ask (eeven the same) questions 2-3 times. Test drive it 2-3-4 times, take 1-2 folks with you. If pertinent in your area, insist on a new inspection sticker. Then make a low-ball offer. You'd be surprised what folks will take just to get you and the car outta their hair. good luck Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Think of it in terms of monthly car payments you'd be paying on a new car - running or not. 3k is like - what - 8 payments or so? Plus, things like timing belts and the stuff associated with it are mainatinence items (unless the belt broke prematurely) so that may not count. call it bad luck. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Some of your symptoms sound like a bad/clogged catalytic converter. Often shows up only under load, after warmup. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

What's the chance that one of your 'friends' was 'zooming' you? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

First thing, confirm you have a clean/new/functioning PCV valve and associated hose. If its clogged/bad it will exacerbate any leak. man, that's a lot of greve/slash/line thingies isn't it? Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Thanx Sam, I did find the one for the '03 OBW H6 like I have - looks like $183 bucks or so. Um - I guess it came with the proper bolts? thanx again Carl 1 Lucky Texan

How's the car running? Why have you noticed this now? Have you monitored your exhaust long and when did it change? What is the condition of the engine and exhaust systems? Has your fuel consumption (mileage) increased? Does it smell like gasoline or rotten eggs? throw us a bone! ;^) Carl 1 Lucky Texan

How much was this kit and what is the part number? Oh - and what size ball is it? tia Carl 1 Lucky Texan

There WAS a time (maybe just 2-3 years?) when higher octane gas was 'better' in the sense that a: performance cars had the injectors, regular cars had carbs. and b: injectors needed more/better detergents in the fuel. and c: high performance ALSO meant high compression. So all that meant, high octane fuel WOULD actually clean a 'family-type' car's fuel system. But it didn't do anything else positive (oh sure, the rare vehicle that had some mid-range compression could have it's timing altered to get a couple more ponies). Also, does anyone remember Ethyl? NO not HER! I'm talking about tetraethyl lead. It was an antiknock agent (IIRC?) and higher octane gas usually had more of it. So sometimes, if your old beater starting knocking from a bad tune up or more likely carbon buildup, switching ot higher octane (or brands) would sometimes clear up some knocking/misfiring. So you THINK the high octane is 'better'' when you actually need some car maintanence. cars now are kinda binary. They work - then they quit (thogh there are now more vehicles that will limp home than -say- a decade ago). I think it's because of the computer system. In the old days a car would very gradually start gouing downhill until you just couldn't stand it and did a tune up. Also, much easier to get going again on the side of the road with a paper clip, or some wire from the horn circuit, or a small sheet metal screw or something. MAN! - did I start ramblin or what! Carl 1 Lucky Texan

IF it's a misfire in the same cyl. you may be able to sequentially (carefully!) remove spark plug wires one at a time. When there is no change (or it doesn't die) you've found the bad cyl. Still, it does seem like something more 'general' in nature. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

If you're othherwise interested in the car you have some ways to proceed - is there any warranty left that transfers to you? Would the dealership give you a warranty that would specifically cover whatever you think IS the cause of the noise. Would the dealership allow you to take the vehicle to a Soob mechanic for a thorough exam? (recommended anyway) You don't mention why you think it isn't a belt as they say. You could perhaps show up on their lot with a can of Belt Ease and say "Show me".. Be a 'grinder'. Make them put so much time in with you that they will do anything to close the deal. BUT you MUST be willing to walk away from the deal. Multiple test drives. repeat questions already answered. Get the VIN from them on the phone 2-3 times - claim you lost it. Bring a friend to drive it. If possible, call the previous owner and ask them if there's any reason you shouldn't buy the car. It's not theirs anymore, they're usually honest. Try EVERY accessory. Make note of tire,battery and other 'consumables' that you will nedd to spend money on. PLAN on spending 200-300 bucks on it (hopefully less) after you buy it. Fluid changes, diagnostics, brakes, tires(?), etc. Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I haven't had it long. There is a 'trip report' thread here somewhere if you can find it. hard to say what to watch out for even as I have had no major or even moderate problem - hasn't been back to the dealer and if I take it back I'll have 3-4 minor things to discuss. I like driving it more and more and of course I have high expectations for it. Due to the AT , the torque curve, and normal fuel injection response lag, you won't be launching outta the hole with it, but on the highway its a great medium sized cruiser with a lot of speed/passing reserve. We wanted a wagon with some cargo room because of doing a handful of hobby related shows a year, I wanted the AWD for the general safety/utility (snow/ice is rare but troublesome in N. Texas) and the possibilty of going offroad 1-2 times every 1-2 years (rockhounding). Complainst about the design are minor so far. Cupholder position causes you elbow to get onto drinks. The computer seems very sensitive to minor issues but I mostly have that under control now. I use mid-grade gas though the one tank of regular never knocked or caused any problems. The sightlines were a little odd but I now am comfortable with my mirrors and visibility. I moved the rearview as high as I could but my wife always wants to swing the pass. visor down and it hits if I have the mirror up high. Just little quirks. Look for the OBW trip report and maybe some otehr folks will respond too. my overall score so far? say - B+ Carl 1 Lucky Texan