subarubrat

I have about 90 of these to give out. They are regular email accounts that you can check through outlook express (and other email apps) as well as via the webmail. You can have one free for the asking just Email me (please not PM) and give me your desired address and it will be so. Please only ask for one if you are going to use it. First come first served.

There are a few owned by Rigoli (search for Rigoli, motorsports, etc.) and you should find his site. He has a redish maroon one with a HUGE turbo rising out of the hood so you can see the compressor blades. He also built another one with a EJ20T that was left looking beat up and rusted and there is an article out there about how he took a high end porsche apart with it running head to head.

It happens, you know. You are much better off welding a metal ring, say 1/8 in. wall thichness at 1in. diameter about 3/4 deep to the wheel to surround the valve stem as they do on construction gear.

I am torn between two replies. I half want to say go ahead and buy it, send off your cash for a model airplane ducted fan or a bilge pump (at a premium price) and pretend your $65.50 did the job of a $2500 piece of hardware. The other half says otherwise. I am by profession a scientist in the space program. I want to explain the realities of axial flow compressors and what all, but I return to option1 and let the stupid learn their own lessons. As Mr. Germano explained their is such a thing as an electric supercharger that works. It is pricier than the direct driven solution and needs one serious power supply. In the end, it is more practical to go with a direct driven supercharger. As my sainted grandmother used to say: " For phucksake sonny, speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?"

UPDATED Latest news and status @ http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm

WE HAVE 22 DOWN 3 TO GO, and 2 weeks left. Latest news and status @ http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm

A registration from an enthusiast with a hatch means more than 10 layers of wax. Register and come!

Huzah! Organization! Please fill me in and I will add your convoy to the official page. OUr convoy will leave from Remington VA 22734 at noon on Friday. What time are you boys headed out?

I hear you, and I am 100% behind the "just because" engineering philosophy. Dual/single, large/small is always a trade off. The tendancy in turbo charging is to oversize the turbo for bragging rights about being in the efficency curve at redline in top gear. How much time do you spend doing that Vs accelerating for a few seconds then cruising? Many aftermarket turbo cars are overturboed. My daily driver Impreza specs out at 300 and some change. The turbo is rather small for what you would expect, smaller exhaust housing with a larger compressor hybrid. I am out of the efficiency and thermal ideals while at max boost and high RPM but in the real world where I pass cars, leave lights etc. I am treated to an effect like driving a big N/A engine with just about no lag and substantial boost available virtually off idle. Comprimise. The first real thing you need to decide is if you are running a sequential or parallel setup. That will change your turbo needs. Lets say you are running parallel, I would suggest a smaller than stock turbo. However if you are running sequential then I would say the stock one combined with a cheap and pleantiful TD03/4 would be a great combo.

I got a grade8 and lockwasher and so far no problems. I am thinking about welding a stronger tab though.

Well that depends, are you looking to go sequential or parallel?

If you had a drive angle extreme enough to tear a boot as a result of the colision or other issues you would know it because the BRAT would be at a crazy angle and all over the road. I would expect that it is nothing but a bad clip, poorly tightened and maybe grease on the cup from sloppy assembly helping it slip off. The problem with aftermarket bands is they suck compared to the rachet type OEM uses. Get a band tool and the best clamps you can and re-do it.

Things were rally slow at work tonight so I read this entire thread. WOW what a fantastic thread. I think the giant ricer wing on the back of the car says it all.

WE HAVE 22 DOWN 3 TO GO, and 2 weeks left. Mattocs pushed us up to 20! Latest news and status @ http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm

In the future do your own work. It could have taken you all day to do your first clutch but so what. As far as the destruction of the car's interior, engine etc. I think I know just the thing. When I was getting my BRAT's bed bedlined the guy doing the work commented that it would really suck if someone bedlined your car to the ground.

The ECU alone does not have the capacity to fire the coil, that is why it uses the amplifier to fire the coil. Wiring the coil directly to the ECU would give you a weak or no spark and depending on the impedence of the coil, maybe damage the ECU.

Right on, we are now at 19 registrations and I have another one that is iron clad so we are sitting at 20. We need just FIVE more registrations to make this happen. Get the word out and invite everyone in the area that you know. Latest news and status @ http://www.subarubrat.com/carslile.htm

Eh, yeah, right. I need to post a pic of my hub of shame. I tried to drill it and ended up with some off center holes and not the best result. Took it to the machine shop and had them index, drill and spline them for me. So apparently, a monkey with a drill can do it where a rocket scientist failed. DOH!

That is really all there is to it, just pull the pins and the bar pivots in the sleve, insert the pins and the bar functions. I used this system for a while, front and rear. But once I went to the adjustable Ranchos I couldn't tell the difference with the bar connected or disconnected. That is actually the best solution. With the shocks on a softer valving the wheels articulate easily. For onroad use I set the fronts at about 7 and the rears at 9. It is very stiff, virtually no body roll, and by having the rear stiffer than the front you get a nice oversteer on demand. As long as you have a decent track width and a few other areas covered you will get fair sports sedan handeling from your lifted roo.

I would suggest making a quick disconnect conversion so you can have it both ways. Just cut a 1/2 inch section out of the bar, weld a section of tubing over the gap but only weld on one side. Drill 2 or 3 holes on the other side that pass through the tube and bar inside it, you can then use pins to enable or disable the bar. It can be a pain to pin unless you park on a smooth even surface.

The EG33 will fit along with a single or twin turbo setup. It is not an easy fit compared to some. I would say it is about half again as hard as getting the ER27 into the BRAT. If you are contemplating this email me and I will assist you as best I can.

That is the most comprehensive restoration I have seen. Are you bringing that one to the carlisle event?

A six link would be a great option. Two per side on the axle at the ends, then two on the top of the housing going out to the frame rails. Use nitrogen shocks at the twin links and you have so much articulation that the only real issue would be your body clearance and ride height goals.

May I suggest a Beer social on Sat. night. Anyone care where?

Is it too late to get the 4 inch lift instead of the 3? Then you have the extra clearance for some beefier tires.