subarubrat

I use a 2 foot long piece of 5x5inch wood that I keep just for pounding out axles. It really is just as easy as Shawn says. You can also do it without removing the ball joint but it is easier to get the shaft off at the tranny.

I have about 1/3 of my original fender in use. The secret to keeping edge rust out is to buy that door edge stripping they sell at pep boys. Buy a nice primer as well. Prime the bare sheet metal, paint it, install the edge stripping, then paint and undercoat it. A rock can strike it dead on and no danger of rust.

Yeah, I am still working out the finals and parts for the Hyabusa powered 360 sedan. Should be in the 11 second range with streetable tires, sub 10 with R compound or other sticky rubber. The biggest problem is the diff being fed by the tranny on the Hya engine. The feed is simple enough actually, it is deciding on a diff to use. I am seriously looking at the R160 LSD from the 2000+ Impreza.

Yeah good way of stating it. It feels strange to look back and call the 30x12s the "stock" tires. And remember when it had that minor 8 inches of lift. Or those small Ranchos with ONLY 8 inches travel. I am already eyeing up the EJ20TT and type RA tranny, would hold up to this use nicely. At some point I have to run out of places to attatch new parts and that means I am done right?

Man, it is just an axle. Go to Autozone and fork over $80 and get a new one. End of drama, end of problem. If you need to wait till the end of the month, do so without any real worry that the clicking one will fail in that time. Best yet, replace it yourself, it is easy.

Still on track, everything I planned to do today got done and done well. The engien and tranny is on the plate for tommorow and thursday if needed. Then I work on Turs. Fri. Sat. and Sun. nights then hit it hard on Mon. after a nap. I imagine Mon. and Tue. will be tieing up more loose ends and Wed. will be some test driving. Then back to the loose ends like the skid plates, getting the wheels painted etc.

First off I would suggest the 6 lug conversion. It opens up hundreds if not thousands of aftermarket Toyota, chevy, etc. wheels. At the time I didn't have drill press so I went to the machine shop and had them do it right. The studs dropped right in and lined up OEM as can be. The lugs area all perfectly true so there is no funny business. I would reccomend having a shop do it if you don't have the gear.

Well Sunday was a wash and the only thing I got done was to fab up the shifter lever. But today showed some progress. The morning was spent collecting parts and pieces. I drove up to Winchester and picked up the driveshafts that GL Dunn made up. They used Spicer components and new tubes. The only thing used from the Nissans were the slip yolks. The whole thing is greasable and rebuildable. I snagged the new brake line extensions, more bolts for things, then hit the machine shop to get them to plasma cut my strut tops. I made it home by about 2:00. The new rear shocks and the steering stabilizer were waiting on the back portch. I bolted the driveshafts in place, then tied up a bunch of loose ends like bolting things back in like the bumper, fuel cell, and what not. I got the tierod side of the steering stabilizer done and discovered that the chassis side bracket was missing. I called Rancho and they have another one inbound. The stabilizer kit was made for a Toyota 4 runner, 4 more bolts and it is done. Tommorow is the new strut tops, bleed the brakes, drop in the lower shock bolts, and tie up a few more loose ends. The tranny and engine should be headed back into the truck Wed. Maybe some final tie ins on Thursday. It is fair to say that the truck could be driving again by the end of next week.

Keep the L, you can pick up an EJ twin turbo 260Hp stock) with tranny on ebay for under $1300. Drop that in, pick up a decent set of springs and KYB adjustables for under $400, throw in a fair set of wheels and tires for under $1000 and you have a beast for less than 3k of upgrades.

99 RS, turboed @ 300+Hp and currently at 135,000 miles, no problems.

Your registration is a valuable service to the community, we need every one we can get to do this as it needs to be done. I certainly hope you get the oppertunity to come, a large BRAT section would be nice. We are 7 away now, I will update the news page tonight when I get home.

Phanton grip, they claim to be able to convert just about any diff into a limited slip unit. The common word is that it is effective for drag use but not for offroad, of course other opinions contradict. I can't recall one person who has actually done it yet. I was considering it before I went Tcase.

My 6 ton (I think) floor jack needs a top off of the jack oil. I didn't save the instructions and I have never had to refill or top one off before. How do you do one of these? Do you fill through the lowering screw or is there another fill port? Do you do it with the jack up or down?

A switch has two possible states, open or closed. Either cut the wires and it works, or strip them and join them together and seal them.

Lower ring and pinion ratios for the R160 Standard EJ into EA body adapter kit lift/lower springs and better struts Some other things like parallel front shock kits, larger lift kits etc. are a limited market but people like myself and others who build such things have already expressed the interest in handing over such methods and designs to be produced by a third party for others. A 6 inch and up lift is a fairly involved thing because it is built on the vehicle as you go. Making the task of producing one for somebody else an impossible or unreasonable job. But a person set up with a jig to make them could tool off the subframes, several in a day.

I did a study of the IFS trucks in the parts yard and found that all but one of them had the front diff hard mounted. I chose a hard mount myself. I would not suggest relying on the splines to function as a slip joint, they aren't really designed to slip under load like the slip joint is. Given the chassis flex and driveline movement I would use a slip joint on each shaft for sure. I am picking up my shafts monday and I had them built from scratch other than the slip joints from the nissan shafts so that they would be true (very hard for a shop to do from a collection of parts) and have greasable U-joints stouter than stock. As for the tranny to Tcase shaft, no slip joint is used.

I haven't forgotten to snap some pics but it has been raining and crappy.

I am sorry I forgot to get back to you. It is a front bumper that I have, not a rear. I will take a look at the one in sunnys next time I go and see what shape it is in. You should be able to install the CV cup and tap the axle stub out IF the screw has broken off well enough. If not, some drilling will be the order of the day.

Naturally the head snaps off. If all of the head snapped off you might be able to get the stubs off. Try installing a CV cup and using that as something to tap on with a hammer. Once the diff is out the remaining screw should be enough to grip.

The rears on my 82 are fine even at 12in. of lift. The fronts have been extended by about 10in. If you are going to make the effort of producing your own lift rather than buying a ready made 4 in. kit (the largest sold) you may as well go on up to 6 inches. Steering is easy, just cut the shaft in half and get some thickwall tubing that slips over the shaft. Slip it over about an inch, weld it in place on one side. Slip the other end in and bolt it in place to get the spacing. Tack it, then pull the shaft and true it up before seam welding it. The struts are unchanged but you can parallel a better shock with them if you want. The rear shocks will be too short and need to be replaced or lengthened. The kits use a drop down mount. The better solution is to use a Rancho or similar shock that is the right length. They aren't very expensive if you get the basic gas shock ($35~40 ea.). You need a top mount of XP7 and a lower mount of LS26 or simlilar. If you want a set that will fit a 6~8 lift I have a set that has 2500 miles on them for cheap. Dito on the strut top location. Tuck them in to the fender wall as close as posible to max your camber options.

I have 4 years and 135,000 miles on my 300+Hp turboed EJ25 in my 99 Impreza RS. The engine has been perfect at this build and it is not abused, but not babied by any means.

I can't promise that the new diffs will be in by then, in fact I can be sure the rear wheel steering and CTIS won't be in but everything else will be. I am WAY ahead of what I planned on for a time line. In two weeks I have done what I expected to do in a month and a half.

The deadline to have club info submitted for a spot is the 30th of April. However, the lady that does the registrations only works on Tues and we need to get everything to her by that tues before the 30th.

That is JUST what I was thinking! WOW, anyone know the owner?

It doesn't pay as much $$$ as you probably think, I mean it isn't bad, but we aren't talking 6 figures by any means. If I had to guess, I would say that I have about the cost of a WRX into it.