Ratty2Austin

well, after looking... its the oil pump.. specifically the sender- anyone have a DL style ea81 pump or senders (kind for the idiot light) and the plug (for the guage sender hole) and now you need to run a wire from the yellow-black wire to the oil sender, and the yellow-green wire to the temp guage on the manifold

I would think that the vacuume leaks had to do with failing... although, strangely enough, mine passed with a huge vac. leak.... so..? did you run it on the freeway first? (get it hot enough to lite up the cat, and the rest of the motor as well?)

could we wire it to the coil somehow? or does that not have the right signal?

Just a thought, but could we possibly have a stereo (in our subarus of course) compitition at some point during the show? or is there going to be some sort of noise ordinance that we will need to follow? I was just wondering, cause as some of you know, I have a bit of a stereo in my wagon and I have gotten a peek at what some fellow USMB'ers (local friends) are cramming into their subarus and it looks like there will be some comparing at the audio level! maybe have -loudness (bass), -clarity (can you hear it nice and clear? or just base!), and the -installation job (are there wires all over the floor and duct tape holding the deck to the dash? or is it a factory looking job?)

that sounds good to me too lol, you would be so much better off with using the rear discs anyways, and they are soo much easier to work on than the drums! btw, it will be around 30 bucks or so for what you need at pap for rear discs I have my discs, but I havent been able to get around to putting them on.... howabout we have a brake day?

hey, Carl and I could both make a trip out to Sammish together... I have been meaning to pay a visit to Corky as well- and it appears that there is another member to meet out there too!

reasons your car could have high oil pressure- blowby from the rings- you can verify this by seeing if oil or stuff "putts" out of the oil filler neck when the motor is running and the cap off. if it is to high, it could ruin your main seals... otherwise, it could be too thick of oil, and it is not flowing thru to the hydraulic lifters. you can also try adding some Magic Marvel Mystery Oil into your engine oil (per directions on the bottle) it will help clean out the oil passages and make it run quieter. I should know, I put it in my impreza 'cause it made the same tapping noise when it was cold... I added that stuff, and it went away before the next oil change. recommended oil to use- Castrol 10W30. I use it exclusively on all subarus and have had no problems. (and thats what we use in the oil change shop at Carter Subaru) I am not sure about your timing setting.. I know that carbed ea81 should be at 8deg BTDC and turbo at 25 BTDC but not sure about ea82 SPFI- the power issue- you have a 3AT, with a SPFI ea82. I have driven such a beast, and I know from experience, the "lack of power" comes from both the spfi (if not tuned just right, it sucks) and the AT.... the 3AT has earned its name "slushomatic" for a good reason! for those who care, daves XT vrs my XT turbo, he has a MPFI with a spider intake and a FWD-4EAT Heavier tranny!) and my XT turbo with a 5spd 4wd, was just a little slower on the highway head to head! and also from what I heard, the XT is the heaviest of the GL bodies... (just what I have heard.. I still want to get a scale and measure) and, yes there should only be one cat. at the Y pipe... the other thing that most non-subaru people mistake for a cat, is the resonator... check to see if your exhaust is rubbing on the car, mine is on my wagon and it makes weird noises like you discribe...

ANYWAYS! yes, stop whining about everything.... if it helps, I actually took pictures of one mf my setups.... (ea81) but close enough to ea82, it might help you out or if this helps- hook one hose up to drivers side crank case breather to the PCV valve. hook another hose to the passenger side breather, and route that hose to the airbox (into the air filter box) see pics- http://usmb.net/gallery/album159 if your local, you could come find me and I can just show you in person how to do it.... (either at home, or at my work) pm me for details

GD... again.. matt is a newbie, and he did admit that in the post! so let him post without contradiction! (after all, he DID do the conversion on his own car) but... there are many ways to do what you want, and how much you can spend or save doing it.. it all depends on how you want your car to end up in the end. so far each way that has been listed will work, but it will be different results for each setup (performance, installation, and price) so now its my turn to tell you what I did- I have a 1980 GL-1600 wagon, with a ea81. I used an ea81 4wd (large) flywheel, with a aftermarket clutch kit (listed in the schucks computer as a kit for an 88 turbo ea82 4wd wagon, basically an ea82 turbo clutch kit) disc, pressure plate and throwout bearing out of the same kit. (kit price for me was ~$250 with a lifetime warrenty) I have a ea82 5spd D/R from an unknown year, with the "kit" that Jerry made, which makes the upper linkage inside the car fit like it was stock. (kit= $100) the driveshaft is the driveshaft that was in my wagon to begin with, which I took to Jerry and he takes it to a shop in Yakima, where they lengthen it, and make it servicable (new grease type yolks) and painted black for $165 total! as for engine removal, it is not that hard once your in there.. there are 4 bolts total, (2 studs, and 2 bolts) that hold the motor to the tranny. 2 nuts hold the engine mounts to the crossmember. 4 exhaust studs w/nuts misc wires and hoses between the motor and car. once those are disconnected, the motor should be removable by whatever meathod you can do. my personal preference is to use a cherry picker, with a chain- and a jack under the tranny to make it easier... but at the junkyard, my friends can remove a complete ea81 by hand (2 of us lifting by the asv pipes or heads) in 30 mins.... so read over the posts, look at your engine before ripping it out... and decide what what will work for you the best... like- do you want nice parts, for a bit more money, or do you want to use used parts, and mokey with it till it works (the 2 piece driveshaft i wouldnt reccomend personally but it can work if done right) and save some money. or mix-n-match Qman is the guy to listen to in my opinion, he has been doing things like this for longer than most of us have been members (heck, probably before the board even came to be!) good luck with your decisions and actions

I am wondering if there is any possible way to search or locate in some way, my old car(s) that I have owned.. most specifically, my 1970 360 sambar van!! (the flaming twinky) if ANYONE has seen it or has a lead on it, let me know!!! if there isnt a way that I can buy it back, then I would at least like to know of its condition/location! last I heard it is either in the local washington area, or down near portland.... here is a pic... http://usmb.net/gallery/albuo36/biglittle360s I want it back!!!!!! (I didnt sell it, my dad did! back in '99)

goodness gracious, great balls of fire! (if you do, hope that there is a fire truck and a Harborview heli standing by lol)

I am fresh out of adaptor plates, but I have a good selection of ea81 manifolds.... just let me know what your looking to do-

hmm... i dont think its a wives tale, considering I have lost 2 radiators to that stuff.... and it DIDNT plug the heater core (the heater core just kept pissing) just what i have seen anyways.... the soldering idea sounds good, as long as you dont care about keeping it all original (but i guess you could just hide it with gluing the plastic back in there

I have looked at gen1 and gen2 before, and I ahve done many-a-gen2 brakes... yes, it is a dumb design (which is why they went to the standard "press-in" pistons on the legacy and newer cars... the gen1 and gen2 calipers are ONLY screw in, you cannot squish them in like a chevy caliper, trust me, i have done the front brakes on my chevy van before too... there is a tool that schucks (or other various parts stores i assume) sell- its a little cube shaped thing, and it has pegs on it and a 3/8" hole in the middle for attaching a breaker bar or ratchet. use this tool to retract the caliper (screw it back in as if it was a bolt) and yes, opening the bleeder valve makes it a lot eaiser! do it this way and this way only (i have tried the other ways too, and have ended up with bandages wrapped around my hands and a car that had no brakes for a while!) and remember to grease the slider bolts and the anti rattle clips on the pads!!!! (or they will seize up like your old brakes)

why not use a standard compression block, and use a turbo that has had the pressure reduced? (rather than modding the block down in compression, lower the input pressure) for that matter, how do you intend on getting F/I stuff on a ea71? last time I checked, the ea81 and ea71 manifold length is slightly different... but like miles said, the fat case later modles might be the right size

hmm.. thats odd... i happened to have a heater core from a 86 GL-10 FWD AT sedan! lol! i think its good.. but I would have to check.. (I removed the assembly as a whole, and left the core in there) but yes, it is difficult to repair, but DONT use stop leak, it will just plug up your radiator and mess up your engine ( i know from experience!!) the best thing to do is bypass the core at the firewall like previously suggested

along with my waterwagon disaster! http://usmb.net/gallery/album96

well, as of now, it can drive the wagon... so its running again! but.... the clutch, which was new around 4000 miles ago, is now slipping (I think its at the end of its adjustment too but maybe if I can find a cable with a longer end on it I can use more of the clutch up) I think it got oil damaged from when the rear main seal blew out, or mud damaged... the weber is not cooperating with me! it is sooo frustrating to keep it running now, if I get it adjusted the way it runs nice, then i let it idle for a little bit, or i rev it or drive it, then come back to an idle, it dies- or it idles too high... I think there is a vaccum leak at the top of the carb somewhere, (doesnt make sence?) but when i sprayed carb cleaner on the front of the carb, right behind the choke coil thingy, it ran smooth and idled correctly...? is there a gasket or something I need to fix there? a shaft that leaks? ahhhhh! so frustrating!!! fix one thing, find something else thats broken! anyone have a spare ea82 4wd clutch disc they are willing to donate to the cause? or for cheap? (needs to be clean and not oil soaked)

thanks for the tip... we actually figured out that gas and silicone dont mix when we pulled my carb off of the old engine... and I think she meant silicone to reglue the intake manifold gaskets, and the carb base and weber adaptor too... we arent gluing anything on the carb... yet? there was chunky mud down in it due to the mud puddle though... might have been why it wasnt running very good.... anyone have a genuine snorkel fitting for the DGEV 32/36? I would like to buy one after seeing how well it sits on the carb on Qmans brat (getting ideas for a snorkel system soon to prevent furthur damage) I have the engine ready to install as of tonight... it is late, I think I am going to try to get the longblock bolted in for now, and call it a night..

Yes, on my wagon, I used the 4wd ea81 flywheel with the ea82 clutch disc, and ea82 pressure plate... if it makes any difference, I bought an aftermarket ea82 clutch kit (meant for a 88 4wd turbowagon) and it came with the ea82 throwout bearing too... it works smooth like my XT! and the timing marks line up well... reccomended for you to do, take a ea81 NA bellhousing, (assuming it fits the ea81T) and the ea81 4wd flywheel, ea81 flywheel bolts, ea82 clutch and tranny parts.... that way your bolts all fit, and the timing marks are too (do the marks on a ea81NA and turbo line up in comparison to the crankshaft? so if you keep the appropriate bellhousing with its corrisponding flywheel they would be correct?) do you even understand what I am trying to say? (i think I have confused myself again lol!) anyways, good luck on deciding on what to do.

progress... the car is disabled for the time being... motors are in the garage- I had to go to pullapart today and spend about 150 on a longblock... i really only needed a shortblock but I figured having the heads on there would save me some time here... (and get me yet another set of good ea81 heads) so I managed to pick up a hydraulic longblock from a 84 sedan AT.... at this time, I have packed it up for the night cause I have work in the morning and need some rest- I got the next longblock on the stand, scraped most of the dirt and roadgrime off of it and am preping it for drop in... I still need to put my flywheel and clutch on it, then install the longblock into the car, and get the manifold and carb cleaned out (from the mud) and put back on.... then I will cross my fingers and hope i scored a good deal at the PAP! (and hope that the 30 day warrenty wont need to be used on this one) meanwhile, my XT has been woken up from a long sleep to get me around, but it needs a lot of help itself- the corssover pipe is falling apart (and leaking) and the PS pump is really making a lot of noise (anyone have a ea82 manual rack that I can get for cheap or trade???) tomorrows another day of work for Patti and I in the garage-

so I went on the hatch patrol run to black diamond area today... very fun! brings back the offroad itch cause the weather was nice, and the trails were plentiful.... but problems snuk up on me at the last second... thenk made the kill! first minor problem during the trail run, (body damage doesnt count either) ... my electric cooling fan gets somehow jammed against the radiator and popped a fuse... didnt notice this till i did my usual once-a3-minutes check on the dash indicated almost overheating levels! i shut it down, let it cool (it seemed ok, there wasnt even a boil over or anything..) i had to un-wedge the fan, and then find a fuse... got it fixed..... it was going good till i decided it was about time to start my way back out of the woods while everybody was playing in the mud up a hill from me.... I went back thru a relativly large puddle, this time towards the middle- and suddnly my car sinks into a hidden hole! I was up to the headlights (above the door trim all around) in mudwater!!!! I tryed to free myself by going back and forth while i still had it running, but after about 5 minutes of trying myself, the air filter just couldnt hold the water out.. and it stalled the engine- then the starter was too wet to try turning it over. I waited.... meanwhile looking around inside the car for incoming water... and found none!! woohoo my new carpet was saved! the seals on my doors and floor held out all the water! so Zap hooked up, and pulled me out- once out, the engine was a big goo mess.... took a while to make it look like an engine again- but once it was cleaned up, it fired up, and got me out of there... but heres the bad part... once out of the woods and starting to head back I noticed a bit of noise... everyone said it sounded like exahust or something but i felt it was deeper in the motor- once we got to the parking lot in town, we noticed a rapid oil drip coming from the flywheel area of the engine! (rear main seal) I went to Qmans house to get some minor repairs done for the trip home (wagon wasnt running too happy) .and each time i started it up, the noise I heard got louder and louder.... but figuring that there wasnt anything we could do about it at this point.. we went home- freeway took us about 1 to 1.5 hours to get home... and when we got off the noisy freeway, the sound let itself be heard! *knock-knock-knock-knock!* bearing knock.... the motor is pretty much dead! it made it home... but every step it took it got closer to death... so now my wagon sits in the driveway, without an engine.. and awaiting the next.... but now, i need to hurry and find a good next! pictures of todays mishaps and adventures will be posted soon... but for now, i need to go fix my wagon!

well, i set the alarm at 6am... but i usually dont wake up to it right away and I need some time to load the spare tire and stuff into the car- if you would be so kind a 630ish wake up call would be nice! (or 7 if thats when youll be up) see ya then!

Hmmm.... 7:50 tomorrow @ Zaps Eh?.... lets see if I can wake up early enough!

I have a few sets of 14" steel wheels for sale- (they are the pug rims) and yes, they are the 4x140mm bolt pattern.... $100 for 4 of them, $120 for 5 (I only have one matching set of 5) I am not too far south from you... well, sortof? I live in the Lynnwood, WA area ('bout 200 miles or so from ya?)