im getting pretty frustrated now, with this oil seal leaking.

have changed the oil pump seal and crankshaft seal, now just the matter of getting the cam pulleys off.

its a quadcam 2L AT legacy 1994.

am holding the pulley with a pair of massive adj pliers, and have someone else give the centre bolt all they have with a 3ft breaker bar, and we cant get it to budge.

Any ideas?

is it going to be this hard to do up the bolts again?

How much is the inlet cam on the left side of the car allowed to spinbefore the valves collide? it has spun a quater turn a few times while i've been trying to undo the bolt.

Cheers

Tim

For the dual cam 2.2 engines, I take an old timing belt and cut it then wrap it around the cam and crank gear and pinch the belt together in the middle with a c-clamp or vise grips.

 

Works great for breaking the bolt and torquing the bolt when you put it back together.

 

Hope this helps

I use an air impact with the belt still on. If the engine is in the car you have to have the radiator out and the a/c condensor flipped out of the way. If that's not an option for you, the 3 foot bar is the way to go, these things are really tight. If you round it off, drill the center out until the head of the bolt comes off. Then you can get the rest out by hand.

the initial loosening is crazy on these, usually is.

 

impact is the way to go. my buddy had one last week that bent the subaru "special" tool, breaker bar, chain wrench, rubber straps broke..nothing would touch this one bad bolt on a DOHC, all the others came out. he eventually got it with an electric impact wrench. i told him it wouldn't work, glad i was wrong! it was only rated at 150 ft/lbs i think (the wrench), but it buzzed it off.

Yes those things can be tiighhhttt the first time. I think they tightened them to the torque spec * 10 or something at the factory.

 

starter bump, works for crank bolts, don't see why it wouldn't work for cams..........G

starter bump, works for crank bolts, don't see why it wouldn't work for cams..........G

it would although considering it is dealing with timing components (unlike the crank bolt - EJ's can even run without that in place!) it would be a risky venture on an interference engine.

Yah that should work but that'd be wayyy for force on the belt than it would see in normal service....not sure what it would take to stretch the thing more than a couple degrees or so....

A little trick I've been told of a few times over the years is for bolts with thread lock on them, whack it with a hammer a few times. Not sure if that's a good idea on a cam bolt though. On crank bolts it's a big no no because it can damage the thrust bearing.

 

If you can get an impact wrench in there that's the way to go.

If you can get an impact wrench in there that's the way to go.

yes, yes, what he said. my buddy had a heck of a time getting one off a couple weeks ago. he ended up using a 150 ft-lb electric impact wrench (i told him wouldn't work) and he said it got it off.

when i did my TB I did all the seals but the Cam because no way I could get that thing off without air tools (never tried) so.. in Jan when I pull the motor the cam bolt can have a fighting match with the air impact wrench.

 

plus I have to take EVERYTHING off because the damn rear of the timing belt cover that is behind all the pulleys the plastic was so old and the screws rusted it broke the plastic so I have no cover over the passenger side cam and the rubber that seals off the TB cover is old..

Impact attached to a CO2 tank

 

 

 

zip.... Done.

Never heard of it that way.. but I need an air compressor anyways because I'm going to drop the trans soon.

Just buzzed mine off no problems with an impact. Same with crank and drive plate bolts.

 

EJ22 though.