excalibur5 Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Probably a stupid question, but I have a '96 legacy with a 2.2L, and am in the process of installing a new timing belt. It appears I need to remove the crankshaft pulley in order to take off the center timing cover. Assuming this is the case, does it require a puller (I would need to go buy one), or can you do it another way? In addition, for clearance, I removed the radiator fans. Should I pull the radiator as well? Seems like a pain to do if not necessary (a bit hard to get at the tranny cooler lines). Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 No puller needed but a tool to hold it while crank bolt is romoved and more importanlty to hold it when crank bolt is later tightened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excalibur5 Posted October 4, 2009 Author Share Posted October 4, 2009 Thanks. Do you have a recommendation for how to hold it? I hear either a strap wrench around the pulley or jamb the starter gear. Will these work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 It sounds like you're doing this for the first time. I would highly recommend that you do some studying first. There are tons of excellent threads here on USMB with guidance, tips and links--use the search function to find them. Or at least get a Haynes manual. The crank pulley shouldn't require a puller, should come off by hand or with a slight bit of wedging. I removed the radiator when I (as a rank amateur) did my timing belt, it's not really difficult to do. The extra space makes the work a lot more comfortable and precludes sticking a tool through the radiator fins! Also, put a piece cardboard or thin plywood over the condenser to protect it. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 the good news is that the 96 2.2 is a non-interference engine, so if you screw up the timing belt, no harm no foul. but as mentioned, read up on it before you start and save yourself some headaches, heartaches, and maybe a skinned knuckle or two. click below for starters: good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 click below for starters: In addition to those articles, there are these specific to the 2.2L: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excalibur5 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 Everyone, thanks. The links were exactly what I was looking for. The chilton manual is lacking greatly in detail (for instance it forgets to mention removing the crank pulley). I've done this before on a '86 DL, and a timing belt on a '86 BMW, but this one is a bit different. Thanks again! -Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 Just went through this job. here's a couple of things that may be useful. if removing fans, they only slot onto the bottom bolts, which snap very easily, so just loosen them off. i needed to use 2 screwdrivers to lever the crank pulley wheel off. just make sure you dont gouge anything with the ends. I found the Starter motor technique (if its auto) to jolt the bolt loose works very well, just pad everything up. hope you have beetr luck than me be very glad you have a non-interferance motor!! Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excalibur5 Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 What do you mean by the "starter motor technique"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted October 5, 2009 Share Posted October 5, 2009 It only works for removal, and re-installation is actually more critical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timfreddo Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 not sure if its the same on a 96 model as my 94 model, but to undo the crank bolt, i placed a large breaker bar either on the chassis next to the battery (bit tight to get on the chassis), or on the ground. take the wires off the dist cap, and crank her over just once (scary), MAKE SURE NOT TO START THE CAR!!! there will be a big clunking, and a bit off kickback on the breaker bar, but if you get it right, the bolt will be loose. To crank it back up, i used the screwdriver in the veiwing hole trick. on the rear of the engine block there'll be a little black plastic cap (if our models are the same??). shove a long screwdriver down the thin gap, and turn the engine clockwise, untill the screwdriver jams. then crank the hell out of the bolt. this is assuming its and auto. if its manual, chuck her in 5th, and have someone put the breaks on. Let us know how you go Tim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
polychromeugand Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 To start - if it looks like a total rust crust I brush on acid,. either HCl (Muriatic) or Aluminum Brightener (Phosphoric) and rinse it off. I have patience for gloves and goggles but not for Naval Jelly. Next comes Liquid Wrench (penetrating oil) Then put the impact socket on and tap it around with a ball-peen hammer. Now find something else to do for a few minutes to let the oil it do its job. I just use an 18" breaker bar and give a good sharp yank, but if your hands dont need the abuse, you could slip in some cardboard to protect the radiator and swat the breaker bar with a big rubber mallet. (If you don't hit it straight...) Putting the pulley back on is no biggie. You can hit the torque click before it turns over without jerking it. If it does turn it too easily to turque the puley, there is a compression problem... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikevan10 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Do not take polychromeugand's advice regarding tightening the crank pulley nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whippet Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 It only works for removal, and re-installation is actually more critical. Just to say how critical installation is. If you don't get it tight enough and it comes loose then dampner pulley can come loose and then wallow out the slot in the crank for the key. When this gets bad enough then the timing is off and your engine will not run worth a crap. At this point the crank is in bad shape and generally needs to be replaced. So make sure that the bolt is torqued. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
excalibur5 Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Got it off last night, pretty easy once I realized there was the inspection port on the top of the transmission. I just jammed a large screwdriver in there to stop the flywheel from spinning, and the bolt came out pretty easy (it did take a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe, however). I did note earlier, that while running, the pulley does appear to wobble (not too bad, about 1/32" - but enough that the wobble was visible when running. What do I look for with a damaged crankshaft? The keyway on the crank appears fine. I assume if someone has taken the pulley off before and improperly torqued the nut, it will allow a bit of a wobble in the pulley, and can enlarge the keyway so there is slop on the timing gear and the crank pulley. Is this correct? If this is the case, what are the repair options, short of replacing the crank? I do note the car has 130K, and this is the first timing belt change done to it (bought it from the original owner, so I know). The car runs great, but idles a bit rough when fully warmed up. I was assuming it might be due to a dirty injector causing a bit of a miss, or a bit of a stretched timing belt due to its age. The idle has improved with a bottle of injector cleaner run through it, but is still a bit rough. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I would'nt worry about such a small wobble (1/32). If the pulley is properly torqued like it seems to be the case of course. Mine has about the same from the beginning and has'nt caused me any problem in 10 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 i have had 2 legacys with a wobble. i bought both of them that way. the first one a 93, failed, timing was off, and i had the mechanic replace everything timing related and "glue" it back together. it ran till it die in an accident several years later. the second one, a 95 replacement for the 93, i recognized the symptom before it failed and was able to correct it before any real damage was done. on both cars, the wobble that i noticed was in the bolt head, not the pulley. now maybe the pulley wobbled and i just don't remember, but i definitely remember the bolt head wobbling. for what it's worth...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whippet Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I doubt that the timing belt is causing your ruff idle. There can be a little wobble to the pulley. It is the keyway that is damaged when not tightening pulley. It does not soundl like yours is damaged. Check the timing of the old belt before taking it (if you haven't taken it off yet). If the keyway gets damaged it usually retards the timing to the point it will not idle. Just make sure you get it torqued down so it doesn't come loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xbeerd Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 a note on the removal of the crank pulley... i found at harbor freight a universal crank pulley tool, it was $12.xx. I had to grind it down to a litte bit to get it to fit in the holes of the pulley and after i slid a pipe onto the end it was long enough to brace itself on the ground and allow me to get in there with a breaker bar, worked out pretty good. also worked for the reinstall. -scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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