I'm having a hell of a time getting the front blocks in on my lift. Removed the sway bar, unbolted the control arm pivot point bolt and drifted it out. I still can't get the control arm to move far enough down to get my front blocks in (or the strut out), even with my fat friend Mike stepping on the hub.

 

Any ideas? I'd really like to get this done today and back on the road!

wierd, you should be able to get the space you need by prying down the lower control arm. Your fat friend Mike should be more than enough help... all you are after is 2" of lift.

wierd, you should be able to get the space you need by prying down the lower control arm. Your fat friend Mike should be more than enough help... all you are after is 2" of lift.

 

 

I know! It really doesn't want to go as far as I need it to. But it will, eventually.

Just pull the whole knuckle/strut out completely. It's really pretty simple.

 

GD

Put it all back together and push the strut down just enough to get the blocks in from the top, that is the best way to do it. I do all of mine like that, its tight but thats how it is.

 

Jeff

Just pull the whole knuckle/strut out completely. It's really pretty simple.

 

GD

 

+1,easiest way to do it.

I just jerked my struts out..but i have full size spacers..not the little block like you......

 

try dropping the ball joint out that will help.

 

 

You could also unbolt the strut rod-that bar that goes back at a 45* to the "frame" that should give you more room to move the control arm down.

Edited November 14, 200916 yr by Breeke

I'll attack it again tomorrow when I get home.

 

Thanks guys!

yep, the leading rod will help drop the whole suspension down a bunch.

 

but I'd definitely just pop the ball joint out of the knuckle (easier, and less chance of destroying the ball joint boot than pulling it out of the control arm). then you'll have tons of space to work with.

Step 1: keep the strut tops bolted to the body, and remove the one 14mm camlock bolt from the knuckle, holding the balljoint to the lower control arm. (the bolt is on the side of the knuckle itself)

 

Step 2: have fat mike step on the lower control arm, forcing the ball joint out of the control arm itself.

 

Step 3: Unbolt the strut tops, and you should have all the room in the world.

Step 1: keep the strut tops bolted to the body, and remove the one 14mm camlock bolt from the knuckle, holding the balljoint to the lower control arm. (the bolt is on the side of the knuckle itself)

 

Step 2: have fat mike step on the lower control arm, forcing the ball joint out of the control arm itself.

 

Step 3: Unbolt the strut tops, and you should have all the room in the world.

 

 

You still need to remove the DOJ side of the axle from the tranny spline because the axle will only go down so far before the axle shft hits the crossmember where the pivet point of the control arm gos. This was 1 of the issues I had when I did the lift. So after you follow these steps that Brain posted also remove the DOJ so you will have all the room and movabilty you need to get that block ontop of the strut and bolted down.

 

-Tom

Is it just me, or are people makeing this harder then it needs to be. I thought all you needed to do was raise your car off the ground. Allow the front wheels to hang free. Unbolt the top of the strut from the car so it hangs down a bit with the suspension. Stuff in the lift blocks then reassemble with longer bolts and your done.

 

No i havent done this lift before but from what oneeyes descriptions are it seems bout that easy.

All the lifts Ive done have had engine xmember blocks. So i just did the entire front end at one time, this involves unbolting the strut tops and the xmember, letting the engine fall and everything goes with it.

 

However, with this 2" lift... it shouldnt be nearly as difficult.

Is it just me, or are people makeing this harder then it needs to be. I thought all you needed to do was raise your car off the ground. Allow the front wheels to hang free. Unbolt the top of the strut from the car so it hangs down a bit with the suspension. Stuff in the lift blocks then reassemble with longer bolts and your done.

 

No i havent done this lift before but from what oneeyes descriptions are it seems bout that easy.

 

the struts have to come pretty far out of the tower in order to leave enough room to get the block up there. the control arm will prevent that much travel, so something else has to be removed.

 

All the lifts Ive done have had engine xmember blocks. So i just did the entire front end at one time, this involves unbolting the strut tops and the xmember, letting the engine fall and everything goes with it.

 

However, with this 2" lift... it shouldnt be nearly as difficult.

 

I've been trying to remember how I did my '88....it was so many years ago.

 

but I know on the EA81s we've done, we did the crossmember at the same time as well, so the entire front suspension was detached from the body. which made it a bit simpler

With dropping the lower ball joint and some fighting, I got the driver's side! :banana:

 

Thanks for all your help guys!

Fighting..

 

thats how mine went too

Success!

 

 

 

 

Looks funny, but they all do at first. Now you can get some real lift with bigger tires!

Now your cooking! Looks good, what type of wheels are you gonna go with and how big of a O.D?

 

Brain, the thing with adding the xmember block is, the steering rod tha gos to the steering box needs to be extended - So thats why I didn't used the xmember blocks. It would be nice to do that though, to keep the axle angle more stock so theres not alot of stress on them.

 

Ben, yes theres not alot of room in the tower to get a block up in there and bolted to the strut top, so just unbolting the strut from the tower isn't enough (Control arm needs to go some way, shape, or form.)

 

-Tom

Now your cooking! Looks good, what type of wheels are you gonna go with and how big of a O.D?

 

Brain, the thing with adding the xmember block is, the steering rod tha gos to the steering box needs to be extended - So thats why I didn't used the xmember blocks. It would be nice to do that though, to keep the axle angle more stock so theres not alot of stress on them.

 

Ben, yes theres not alot of room in the tower to get a block up in there and bolted to the strut top, so just unbolting the strut from the tower isn't enough (Control arm needs to go some way, shape, or form.)

 

-Tom

 

Got some 6-lug beater wheels (2 pair, 14x6 and 15x7), so I'll have to do the hub redrill fairly soon. Looking either the Hankook Dynapro MTs or General Grabber AT in 27". Undecided so far, but I have until January to figure it out.

 

Looks funny, but they all do at first. Now you can get some real lift with bigger tires!

 

It does look funny. Steering feels a little strange too, but I'm sure I'll get used to both.

Edited November 15, 200916 yr by Redcap

I would check out Maxis Bighorns (As they are awesome off road from what I hear) I am going to go with them as soon as these BFGs get used up

 

 

Good luck

Grabbers are fine, unless you want to do some really serious mudding, and they got me through walker valley just fine. Cost and street use are BIG bonuses.

I almost cant hydroplane.

Grabbers are fine, unless you want to do some really serious mudding, and they got me through walker valley just fine. Cost and street use are BIG bonuses.

I almost cant hydroplane.

 

Then Grabbers really sound like the way to go. I'm not going to wheel this rig real hard.

Then Grabbers really sound like the way to go. I'm not going to wheel this rig real hard.

 

 

I would.

 

 

Jeff

For not a lot of off-road use, the grabbers will prolly be fine. I run the Bighorns on my rigs (Or ITP Mud Lite XTR's for serious off-roading in the Brat:grin:) and I love them, they arent cheap, but they are an amazing tire. Its gonna look pretty sweet with the new tires!

 

-Bill