TheLoyale Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 where should I put the O2 sensor when I reroute the exhaust? After the 2 pipes Y together, right? How far from the exhaust port? Well since this is a Mud bogger, I wouldn't even worrie about te O2 sensor (Leave it out) its not like your gonna drive this on the road. I ran mine without an O2 sensor for a day (Long story) and it idles pretty good, it just runs a bit rich, but you ain't driving this on the road anyway so I don't see any reason to have an O2 sensor in it. Also, I see no need to run a Y-pipe. Just run one pipe off each head and bring it up thru the hood/engine bay like you said before. -Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 Well since this is a Mud bogger, I wouldn't even worrie about te O2 sensor (Leave it out) its not like your gonna drive this on the road. I ran mine without an O2 sensor for a day (Long story) and it idles pretty good, it just runs a bit rich, but you ain't driving this on the road anyway so I don't see any reason to have an O2 sensor in it. Also, I see no need to run a Y-pipe. Just run one pipe off each head and bring it up thru the hood/engine bay like you said before. -Tom For the mud, at the very least it needs a Y pipe if he doesnt have custom cams, with 2 separated pipes he will have seriously less torque (voice of experience here). If it were me, I'd do what I always do, run duals with an X pipe. Same great sound, way better torque. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 I suppose not having a Y (Uneven headers) would give you a big lack in low-end, Plus it'd sound like a Honda :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted March 3, 2010 Share Posted March 3, 2010 For the mud, at the very least it needs a Y pipe if he doesnt have custom cams, with 2 separated pipes he will have seriously less torque (voice of experience here). If it were me, I'd do what I always do, run duals with an X pipe. Same great sound, way better torque. -Bill I was gonna say mr true dual exhaust. You do know the result of no y pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 3, 2010 Author Share Posted March 3, 2010 I am gonna try to make the header as close to equal length as possible while running the pipes in front of the motor. I am gonna try to find a long "quiet" muffler and run the muffler out of the hood. I dont wanna be "that guy" with the annoyingly loud car. I dont have a good welder so I'm gonna get it tacked together and take it to a friend to get finish welded. Anyone know of a good place to get pre-bent U's and J's in a 1.75 or 1.875? Also is there any emission stuff I can delete to make it lighter? This is a strictly off road vehicle that is only gonna be used in the mud so im gonna gut the interior but leave in the door panels so I dont beat myself up. I may rhino line the floor for grip after I get all muddy, or use skateboard tape. Any lightening ideas are welcome. I still need 4 seats and 4 operational doors. 4 working door windows would be nice. I also need it pretty "mud tight" I don't wanna cut the roof off or take the doors off, anything crazy like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 4, 2010 Share Posted March 4, 2010 I am that guy with the annoyingly loud car, so no worries, you won't be I get all my pre-made bends from summitracing.com, good stuff. Since you are running the stock spfi engine, you can get new cams from Delta Camshaft to give you a lot more low-end grunt (you will want as much as you can get) and they are only like $75 a pair. There really isn't anything you can remove from a spfi motor, they are pretty much as stripped as they can get and still run properly. The interior really doesn't have anything that wieghs a whole lot by itself, but if you strip the carpet, door cards, all the trim, and chip out all the sound deadener, it will make a big difference. The armrests attach to the door itself, so you can remove the door panels. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 5, 2010 Author Share Posted March 5, 2010 I'm thinking about only leaving the seats and dash in the interior. Getting rid of the headliner, pillar covers, radio and speakers, and all the rest of the interior panels. Maybe trying to chip up the asphault based sound deadener. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 (edited) replace side windows with lexan?or remove them completely? remove headliner,carpet,plastic bumper covers(better is run steel bumpers-but that is a weight penalty. remove fenders remove grill remove emblems and badges and trim run hood pins?cut some of the support structure for the hood away,hell remove hinges and replace with hood pins instead. *KEEP the cowl panel at the bottom of the front window.Otherwise the plastic mounts for the wipers get brittle and they break* if its offroad only,feel free to remove taillights,mirrors,and mud flaps remove any non essential brackets.IE there are some brackets for holding the plastic inner liner in place for the front fenders.remove liner,remove brackets,etc... Edited March 5, 2010 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 You don't have to get that crazy taking parts off, Ive ADDED over 500 lbs of wieght to my 87 wagon, and swapped in an older engine, and I'm running 31/10.5 tires and it has no trouble in mud. I'd strip the interior and get all the sound deadener out, rhino line it, and it's good. Things like the grill and emblems don't add up to more than 5 lbs on the whole car, so no need to waste time with that. Just cam the motor, lift it, d/r swap and you will be very happy with what it will do. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Any lightening ideas are welcome. quote] bob the rear and remove the bumpers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 I think using Lexan for the side cargo windows is a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 $200 (very low guesstimate) worth of windows on a $300 car. Go for it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 $200 (very low guesstimate) worth of windows on a $300 car. Go for it.... Well you can always go with cling wrap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chopsubie Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 You don't have to get that crazy taking parts off, Ive ADDED over 500 lbs of wieght to my 87 wagon, and swapped in an older engine, and I'm running 31/10.5 tires and it has no trouble in mud. I'd strip the interior and get all the sound deadener out, rhino line it, and it's good. Things like the grill and emblems don't add up to more than 5 lbs on the whole car, so no need to waste time with that. Just cam the motor, lift it, d/r swap and you will be very happy with what it will do. -Bill Older engine? are you running an EA81? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 You don't have to get that crazy taking parts off, Ive ADDED over 500 lbs of wieght to my 87 wagon, and swapped in an older engine, and I'm running 31/10.5 tires and it has no trouble in mud. I'd strip the interior and get all the sound deadener out, rhino line it, and it's good. Things like the grill and emblems don't add up to more than 5 lbs on the whole car, so no need to waste time with that. Just cam the motor, lift it, d/r swap and you will be very happy with what it will do. -Bill For next year's mud bog I hope to have an ej22 swapped in so I'll probably skip the cams. But everything else is in line to happen. D/R is on it's way, on the waiting list for a lift from you, interior is getting stripped today, tires are mounted waiting for some 6 lug hubs, exhaust tubing is ordered for the custom header, skidplate is still in the design stages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 8, 2010 Author Share Posted March 8, 2010 when I take the S/R tranny out for the D/R, what should I replace on the motor and transmission? This will be my first tranny replacement. I have read alot about it and have a manual, will it be too much for a beginner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 when I take the S/R tranny out for the D/R, what should I replace on the motor and transmission? This will be my first tranny replacement. I have read alot about it and have a manual, will it be too much for a beginner? Check the tranny mounts, if they are bad replace them. If the clutch assembly looks good and works fine right now, I'd leave it alone since you arent swapping in the EJ yet. When you do the EJ swap you will need to replace that. You will need the 4wd Hi-Lo selector lever from a D/R car, that linkage bolts directly onto the stock 5 speed shifter plate. You will have to re-wire the tranny harness so you have back up lights and 4wd indicator on the dash, but you will not have any lo-range indicator unless you wire one in somewhere. Its a really easy swap, Ive done it in a DL which is exactly the same as a Loyale. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 Oh and your 6-lug hubs are in the mail Send me back the old hubs and drums when you get the new ones please -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 Woot! I got my d/r tranny in today also. Next week is spring break. Looks like the ol' mudwagon will get some work done to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 pics or it didn't happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 9, 2010 Author Share Posted March 9, 2010 pics or it didn't happen. It's not in the car yet. I go to school in Louisville KY, 80 miles from home. So I haven't even seen it yet. Hoping it has the d/r stick with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3eyedwagon Posted March 9, 2010 Share Posted March 9, 2010 pics or it didn't happen. POT TO KETTLE: Can you read me Kettle. This is pot. I REPEAT: POT TO KETTLE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
logang1k Posted March 10, 2010 Author Share Posted March 10, 2010 Got my tubing in to build my header today. I should wait until after the lift to build the header because clearances will change, right? I am gonna use the stock header for the flanges and use 26-32" of 1-3/4 pipe then use a 2-1 Y-pipe that is 1-3/4 to 2". I plan on running it forward in front of the motor and out of the hood but it looks like it's gonna be tight. I plan on using a glasspack type muffler but space may not allow for a muffler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Mufflers are over rated anyhow -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted March 10, 2010 Share Posted March 10, 2010 Mufflers are over rated anyhow -Bill I'll 2nd that :-p I want to see some pics of this rig! Sounds mean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.