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mud bogging loyale?

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  • Author

right now it ain't poo. It is a stripped out silver wagon with a dead cylinder (im hoping it is just out of time), a sticky clutch cable, no front fenders, both window washers removed, the, air box resonator removed (gonna make a snorkel). I am seriously thinking about removing the hatch and doors for the mud bog. I don't mind getting muddy. I am just not sure how the newly uncarpeted wiring will take the mud.

 

Everyone wants a ride once it's done. I tell them I'm gonna take out all of the seatbelts but mine to save weight, no oh crap handles either. J/K about the seatbelts.

 

here is the pipe kit I bought to make the header. overkill

http://www.mandrel-bends.com/catalog/builder-kits-33/ultimate-builder-kit-111/1-75-od-x-3-00-radius-16-gauge-mild-steel-ultimate-bk-871.html

 

what size pipe for the ej22?

Edited by logang1k
bad words

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  • Views 13.5k
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The EJ22 I believe is 2-1/4" ? Not sure on that. the EA82 is 1-7/8".

 

You can always make doors out of Pizza boxes, rustolium and, duct tape. (Like Red Green style) "If the women don't find you handsome, they sure will find you handy"

 

-Tom

  • Author

dad says my hubs came in today! I am gonna try to fit the 27.2" tractor tires without a lift kit probably friday. No front fenders should help but wish me luck and dry weather

  • Author

Drivers side cam timing was a few teeth off. I hope fixing that fixes it!

  • Author

Today I welded up the rearend and fixed the timing issue. The car is so much faster now than it ever was even when it had the stock size tires on it. I'm excited!

subaru2.jpg

 

 

 

Those should go through the mud real good!! :grin:

 

Jeff

  • Author

Completely removed the dash and heater. All i have left is the instrument cluster, steering wheel, shifter, pedals, the outside air vent and a crap load of wires. I wish I knew which wires I am not using because I would strip them out. What can I do with all of the wires to keep them up out of the way? I was thinking of running a piece of pipe and cutting it down one side then stuffing the wires inside to keep them from getting crushed, pulled on, beer spilled on them.

I woulda kept the heater.some times it gets cold out wheeling.

  • Author

Yeah I kept thinking that it was a bad idea because I like to use it to play in the snow. Oh well. I'll just wear a coat.

  • Author

But not having a dash should make the wiring for the ej swap a lot easier I would think.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Got it stuck last night. I went to one of my family's ponds and went through it too easily in 4wd so I put it in fwd and the tractor tires dug too fast and I buried the front end and then I clicked in 4wd and tried to back up and the back end sunk. The onlookers said it looked like I was in quicksand it sunk so fast. Two 4x4 trucks couldn't pull me out so I had to call mom to bring a tractor. After I got out I left it in 4wd and went back through the same spot. One one side of the pond there is a dirt mound so I hit it with a litle bit of speed and ramped out into the mud. My buddy said I was 6 feet in the air and nose dived. Good times! I was everyone's hero for the rest of the day. Bill, are you still sure you wanna make me that lift? haha My front shackles need to be on the bumper because I had to dig them out of the mud.

  • Author

Where can I relocate my radiator to so it doesn't get caked with mud? I was thinking on top of the motor like the Subaru buggy or a friend said on the roof.

Does anyone know how to make a high pressure windshield washer? I saw a mud racing truck that ran PVC around the front windshield and sprayed water on his windshield that whole run. I don't know what to use as nozzles or if I could just drill holes in the PVC.

Mud bogg'n tech 101

 

Relocate radiator to the rear-use exhaust tubing, fence posts,rubber hoses,etc whatever is available.You will have to get creative with how you route the hoses because their isn't a frame to tuck them into as with a normal 4x4.Or you could put the radiator on top of the engine.I don't like that idea because:

1) heat rises,so you have hot air from the engine flowing through the radiator

2) when your mudding you fling a lot of crap up into the air,sometimes rocks or dirt clods as big as the palm of your hand.It would be terrible if one such piece of debris came up and fell through the radiator.Unless you could somehow make a scoop that would cover it and still allow fans somewhere on it.

 

as for the washers, have a 5 gallon bucket somewhere in the car with a marine bilge pump in it.Run some hose up to a piece of PVC right over the the top of the windshield.Cap one end.Drill about 5 or 6 (or as many holes as you want) in the PVC so it will spray down and wash the mud away.

 

Both of those ideas I will do once I get the components needed for my SPFI swap and have it running right.It all requires a little bit of money,And money is one thing I don't have.So I have to budget my money and achieve goals with the limited amount that I have.Current item on budget list is SPFI swap,then 4" lift.Hopefully I will have both done by mothers day weekend.If not I can live with just the SPFI swap...

 

then after the lift I got some 31X10.5X15's going on....

Around here most guys mount the radiators in the back of their mud rigs, with electric fans for air flow

  • Author

the problem with mounting it in the rear is where in the rear? With a wagon i have the roof, the hatch door or the cargo area. The cargo area sounds hot and dangerous, not sure how feasible the hatch door would be, so I'm thinking roof. Mount it parallel to the roof about where a sunroof would be. Fill it perpendicular to the roof to get the air out. Put some electric fans on it (would 4 [2 push, 2 pull] be overkill or pointless?) mount a protective cover to keep debris from falling on it.

Mount it in the hatch area. There are a few folks around here that have there XJ's set up that way. These are dedicated mud rigs, and these guys don't have glass in the hatches. I would think with the rad on the roof, you would still have problems with mud and crap getting into the radiator and causing problems.

Are you planning on riding passengers in the back seat? If not, build a bracket that will mount the radiator where the rear seat back would normally be, so its upright and can have all the airflow it needs. Then just use two electric fans, push or pull doesnt matter.

 

-Bill

  • Author

having the radiator inside the cabin would solve my lack of a heater in the winter. Where would you run the radiator hoses? Underneath the car isn't an option because of the obstacles I will encounter

holesaw a pair of holes somewhere on the passenger side firewal near the floor, and get some rubber grommets to fit, then run your pipes through there and along the driveshaft hump to the radiator. Or with a lift, you can run them under tha car in the transmission/driveshaft tunnel, then make the holes to come in under where the back seat bottom is.

 

-Bill

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Author

so... since the battery & radiator are gonna be in the rear, how much trouble would I have fitting an eg33 in the loyale. What would I have to worry about? The single core radiator would have to be replace. I would almost rather have an auto for the mud because as soon as you touch the clutch the mud stops the tires from moving.

I think the biggest issue when fit a 6 into these cars is where to put the rad.But with no radiator up front it should fit.

With the EG33 and your stock 5 speed, in mud with bigger than stock tires, you will destroy the tranny very quickly... Since you are considering an Auto, I would get one from a 96-99 Outback (4.444 gears). The main problem the SVX's had was... Blown auto trannies :rolleyes: so get a tranny cooler and keep up on the maintenence with that setup and you should be ok. You would need the TCU from the Outback, and there are 2 write-ups on the board about modding the ROM or whatever to set up paddle shifters and custom shift modes, if you want to get into that stuff.. Mount all the electronics to a bracket on the headliner so it stays out of harms way, and you should be good. The EG33 will bolt up to any 4EAT auto.

 

-Bill

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