Bandit987 Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 I am puffing white smoke out of my exhaust, Its an 87 ea82t, I was wondering what else I need to change while I'm there...I found this on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/85-90-1-8L-Subaru-Loyale-EA82T-SOHC-Head-Gasket-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3355252721QQitemZ220471830305QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Also I was wondering how much damage if any it would cause driving it home its about 1.4 miles away, Also how long does replacing both head gaskets take? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 sweet deal on the gasket set. retail price is towards 150. pull the whole engine, it will make the effort much easier. go ahead and do a new water pump (short pump, 105mm, bolts instead of studs) and replace the oil pump o-rings. although the rear seal rarely fails, there is a breather plate with a cork gasket that should be serviced it takes roughly an hour to drain and disconnect and pull the motor. once out in a 5 hal bucket, milk crate, or engine stand, it will take about 4 hours to disassemble, clean, and reinstall the heads and seals. its a good idea to replace the turbo coolant hoses under the intake to avoid future problems. keep the coolant full and the rad cap loose to drive it home, you will be ok, run the heat, and if it gets cold, add coolant. its easiest to pull the engine with the turbo, exhaust, and intake intact with the engine. place a hjack under the tranny to raise the motor over the crossmember. you onlt need to disconnect the downpipe from behind the turbo for the exhaust. good luck and have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 I'm suspicious of the quality based on the lack of a brand name and how cheap that gasket set is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 I'm suspicious of the quality based on the lack of a brand name and how cheap that gasket set is. It seems to good to be true, and graphite? but... I wonder if I should snag one now... ahead of time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobiedubie Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Just because you are losing coolant faster than you can add it, and blowing white smoke, does not mean that you have either a blown head gasket or a cracked head. You may just need to tighten up your cylinder head bolts. If you have less than 125 psi compression on any cylinder, then you have a compression issue that may be those bolts. Tightening up those bolts can be done by removing the cam cover, and the top oil distribution tube. Then you just carefully insert your 3/8" socket and tighten as many bolts as you can access. Make sure that you don't lose the socket off of the end of your 3/8" extension, because you are in big trouble if you do. Cylinder bolts will loosen in as little as 5 to 7000 miles from when they were last worked on. I understand that using new bolt washers that are not already squashed, is the way to go when installing new cylinder heads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eulogious Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 its a good idea to replace the turbo coolant hoses under the intake to avoid future problems. +1 to this! That hose just failed on me, and what a PITA. While your in there replacing that hose, do yourself a HUGE favor and replace that hose clamp with a spring one instead of a stupid screw clamp that you CAN'T access. That way you will actually be able to remove the hose clamp to replace the hose in the future without needing to remove the intake :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Before you spend more money and time on it, you should determine if the heads are cracked (very common in EA82t) UNbolt the motor and lift it a bit. Then, pull the uppipe and inspect the exhaust ports for cracks like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 lol! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 (edited) lol! thought there might be a show, I've never had any luck re-torquing a head, but I have been desperate enough to try it twice... guess some other folks are holding back, or too busy in the nice weather to reply with a scientifical post Edited April 18, 2010 by Txakura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 thought there might be a show It was lame and mis-informed but it's not worth going into orbit over - newbs will say funny things like that at times . I'm sure he'll really stick his foot in his mouth on something else. I'll wait till it's something really juicy. And to the OP - check your manifold gaskets before you tear your engine to peices. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Share Posted April 18, 2010 It was lame and mis-informed but it's not worth going into orbit over - newbs will say funny things like that at times . I'm sure he'll really stick his foot in his mouth on something else. I'll wait till it's something really juicy. And to the OP - check your manifold gaskets before you tear your engine to peices. GD Would the manifold Gasket affect the idle? I prob should have mentioned that , reason I think its the head gaskets is because my idle dropped then started puffing white smoke, I turned it off , was thinking wtf, first thing I did lol was check the oil, soon as I took the dipstick out smoke was coming from it, I am a noob at cars, but I thought that was really bad lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T'subaru Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 thought there might be a show, I've never had any luck re-torquing a head, but I have been desperate enough to try it twice... guess some other folks are holding back, or too busy in the nice weather to reply with a scientifical post hehe, ive been there, a futile attempt :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 18, 2010 Share Posted April 18, 2010 Would the manifold Gasket affect the idle? because my idle dropped then started puffing white smoke, I turned it off , was thinking wtf, first thing I did lol was check the oil, soon as I took the dipstick out smoke was coming from it smoke was coming out the dipstick tube? has oil surfaced in the coolant? is there coolant in the oil? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Share Posted April 19, 2010 smoke was coming out the dipstick tube? has oil surfaced in the coolant? is there coolant in the oil? Yes, Would it still be safe to drive it home? Like I said Its about 1.4 miles form my house, I am also thinking it will take more than 4 hours for me because I'm new to this. What is Head stud torque pattern? Also should I replace the Head studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 (edited) I can't tell anyone to drive or not drive, if it were my own personal rig, I'd probably do it, stay way out of any rpm other than necessary and no where close to any boost... but it'd depend on how badly I thought the engine was damaged i.e. not make a $200 problem a $1,200 problem that close can you get a tow from anyone? 4 hrs for a first time go is probably not realistic what else have you figured out? are the oil and coolant mixing? oh, and they'e head bolts on that engine Edited April 19, 2010 by Txakura bolts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted April 20, 2010 Author Share Posted April 20, 2010 I can't tell anyone to drive or not drive, if it were my own personal rig, I'd probably do it, stay way out of any rpm other than necessary and no where close to any boost... but it'd depend on how badly I thought the engine was damaged i.e. not make a $200 problem a $1,200 problem that close can you get a tow from anyone? 4 hrs for a first time go is probably not realistic what else have you figured out? are the oil and coolant mixing? oh, and they'e head bolts on that engine I am just going to get it towed, I have not even put 10k miles on the engine yet, but it did already have 40-70k. I am going to try it in the next couple weeks, Just need to wait for the gasket set The oil and coolant are mixing. Don't remember if I answered your last question, but Yes there was smoke coming out of the dipstick hole What is Head stud torque pattern? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rxleone Posted April 21, 2010 Share Posted April 21, 2010 What is Head stud torque pattern? The head gasket set should come with a sheet showing you the pattern and the torque settings. At least, they do over here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted May 14, 2010 Author Share Posted May 14, 2010 UPDATE! Just got some free time, I have drained all the coolant, started with the oil , soon as it started flowing, I saw green liquid with the oil, it was bright green because I just finished putting some new coolant in. I have everything off now, in the process of taking off the valve covers. Ive been doing some reading to get ready to replace the head gaskets, I have a chilton book for my car, and Ive been doing some reading on the forums. I have a questions In the book it says when you are torquing the bolts to do it in three steps. 22ft, then 43 ft, then 47ft, is that necessary? Its pretty crazy having it all apart like it is, doesn't look so complicated anymore . Thanks for all the help so far, you guys have saved me a bunch of time. Ill keep you updated . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted May 14, 2010 Share Posted May 14, 2010 (edited) yeah EA head gaskets are easy, turbo and turbo exhaust can be annoying though. yes, head gasket bolt torque procedures are absolutely necessary for a reason. all head bolts are like that as far as i know. there's a very specific order to it as well. follow those exactly. for that matter heads should be machine for a nice clean surface and the block cleaned well too. looks like you already bought the gasket kit but I would recommend, as many folks on here do, using the Fel Pro permatorque head gaskets for this engine. Most of us add a final torque step and add 5-10 pounds to the final value in the manuals. that should be called the USMB head job. low grade head gaskets are known to be problematic in other applications, i wouldn't think about anything else on this motor. yours being no-name brand i don't know what to say - but Subaru FSM and the Chiltons should say to retorque the head bolts...but on a cheap-o gasket like that i'm wondering if it matters!?? LOL if you end up doing it that way, don't seal up the cam carriers the first time, leave them clean and dry. install head gaskets, install cams, valve covers and start motor. when you retorque, then seal the cam carrier. no point in sealing it and cleaning it twice. other than the Fel Pro's, all the other EA82 head gaskets i'm aware of have to be retorqued which is a annoying. Edited May 14, 2010 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted May 17, 2010 Author Share Posted May 17, 2010 I am broke right now so I have to go with the set I bought.. :-\. Also something crazy, in the chilton book it shows the loosening sequence, it actually has a typo and doesn't show 2 bolts , but I checked the tightening sequence it does show them. I have one head off, Looks fine to me, my friend says that it looks pretty good. I am going to take the other one off tomorrow, the one I do have off doesn't seem to have any cracks, so all good so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 I inspected them better and there does seem to be a slight crack in between the valves( ill upload pics tomorrow). I was wondering what you guys would do as far as that goes? Replace them or leave them ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted May 18, 2010 Share Posted May 18, 2010 Leave it be, Subaru said a long time ago that it was ok to run them that way. If they were bigger, they would need to be welded or pinned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bandit987 Posted May 18, 2010 Author Share Posted May 18, 2010 (edited) Thanks, putting everything together now. Also I remember seeing a post about a dual core radiator , cant find it for some reason, does anyone know where I can get one of those? A website or number would be great FOUND IT NVM! Edited May 18, 2010 by Bandit987 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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