I am in the process of rebuilding my EA-81 and wanted to know if you guys would suggest putting these gaskets on dry or using some sort of RTV sealant.

 

-Oil Pan

-Valve Cover

-Intake manifold

 

Thanks

Ha, I just did this.

 

I was told to never put sealant on cork, but in the book it says to put sealant on both sides of the oil pan gasket. (?) But you prolly dont want to put sealant on the valve cover gaskets as you might want to take them off again to adjust your valves unless its a hydro lifter motor. The intake should just be clean and dry and oem.

Ha' date=' I just did this.

 

I was told to never put sealant on cork, but in the book it says to put sealant on both sides of the oil pan gasket. (?) But you prolly dont want to put sealant on the valve cover gaskets as you might want to take them off again to adjust your valves unless its a hydro lifter motor. The intake should just be clean and dry and oem.[/quote']

 

This is a quote from GD when I asked about rebuilding my EA81:

 

"Use Fel-Pro perma-torque head gaskets - Autozone had them for like $15 each last time I bought some. Get all the other gaskets from the dealer - especially the intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. Coat the cork gaskets in RTV and let dry - it makes them "rubberized" and not only do they seal better but they don't fail due to oil absorbtion.

 

Rick"

I read the same post by GD. I took the advise on my rebuild. I found you get a smoother finish if you put the RTV on one side then put that side on a piece of plastic and let dry. Then do the same with the other side. I haven't installed yet, but have done the sealing, looks like it will work out quite nicely. I used a marine sealant on my head gaskets (recomended by a good mechanic friend) instead of RTV, cause I couldn't find the stuff from the Subaru manual.

 

John

Edited August 28, 201015 yr by JRD
added info

When I first started doing engine work I used rtv on everything besides head gaskets.Then about 5-8 years ago a friend of my dad's who is a diesel mechanic by trade asked me why and I said "um..... I dunno?" He went on to explain to me that the gasket itself is what's meant to do the sealing and adding junk to the surfaces usually interferes with the sealing job. He also told me the best way to prevent leaky gaskets is to prep both surfaces very well, clean them and such, dry them, and install the gaskets dry @ proper torques. Since then, that is what I've done on everything I touch and have had NO problems at all. I know everyone has there own way of doing things, and this is just mine. I also believe in using quality gaskets/seals. Some from parts stores and some from the dealer, to me theres no point in doing a superb job mechanically and using inferior products.

Thanks, Spencer

IMO This makes the difference between a job that will be leak free for a short time and one that looks good and stays dry for years.

RTV has limited applications but I do coat all my cork gaskets in in and LET IT DRY before installation. This saves the cork from it's otherwise sure fate of absorbing the oil and being cooked down to crispy shoe leather.

 

One of the biggest problems with sealants in general is that people use WAY too much. Most of which is squeezed out when the parts are assembled. Anytime RTV is used the proper amount of "squeeze out" is about 1/32" to 1/16". With RTV this means you cover the surface with a smear from your finger - deep enough only to insure you can't see through it. A "bead" no matter how small is almost always too much.

 

As for installing all gaskets dry - there is a time and place for that but there is also a time and place for improving upon the gasket tech that's in the older engines. RTV is, in almost all cases other than cork, best suited as a gasket *replacement* rather than a supplement. It works very well to eliminate the gaskets on things like the Subaru water pumps. Though the coated metal OEM gaskets on the EJ's are much cleaner and easier to use, I have replaced EA water pumps using only RTV and it works just fine. You have to be careful where you use it so that it doesn't clog oil passages and it is not suitable for gasoline, etc. There are better options in some cases like the Loctite 515/518 flange sealants, Subaru Three Bond, etc. One must consider the application carefully and weigh all the options.

 

As for leaks - none of my Subaru's leak. You won't find a single drop under any of them. I only ever have to seal them up one time after I aquire them. That's how it seems to work out anyway.

 

Surface prep is definitely of utmost importance. No matter what you choose to seal it with - the surfaces being sealed against need to be fully prepped.

 

GD

Edited August 29, 201015 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thanks for all the imput.