Okay start the laughing now..

 

Took battery out b/c it was drained a dome light drained it a bit and it was around 5 degrees. Warmed up the battery overnight and the batter was showing 12.7 v so I put it back it but with the terminals reversed. Tried to start it and realized my mistake.

No it won't do the regular clicking sound and just the door beep works.

 

I thought reversing the terminals might burn a fuse under the hood but they all look good.

 

What should I look for now?

 

thanks

 

Fitz

i've seen blown fuses and if those are all good i've seen a blown ECU once. double check all fuses....i'm not sure on yours how many would be relevant for this issue.

Look for blown fusible links.

X2. Check the fusible link in the main fuse panel.

What year and model?

Nobody's laughing friend. I can picture your frozen toes to fingers and why it was plopped in there. The previous is good info. You've yet to see info from one who has actually done that. I'm thinking the alternator took a major hit. While it was heating and breaking down a fuzelink popped as was mentioned.This may have saved your ecm.

It's an OBW 98. The first inspection of the fuses looked clear but checking continuity with my OHM meter I found the "wire" fuse cooked. The wife is off doing her "barnes and noble time" and she will return with the part. I jumped the connection with the remained piece of wire and the dash light up. But no clicking on the starting attempts. I think I need to charge the battery some today and give it a good college try. More updates to come.

 

thanks guys...this site is great.

 

 

I have a friend that works at a local suby dealer....actually this point deserves it's own post.

There has been more then one that has gone down this path before. Hopefully it is just a fuseable link since the battery was weak.

There has been more then one that has gone down this path before. Hopefully it is just a fuseable link since the battery was weak.

i willingly admit my recommendations above are directly from my own personal experience.

i willingly admit my recommendations above are directly from my own personal experience.

 

 

And here i was trying to be nice...

Done it myself too on same car and had same problem (fuseable link). Make sure you unlock your doors afterwards if you have an alarm as I then proceeded to lock my keys in the car with it running.

Make sure you unlock your doors afterwards if you have an alarm . . . .

 

That's what I love about the USMB--lotsa' technical help and some very practical "real world" suggestions too!!!

Generally anytime you work on a car ALWAYS roll down a window

^yeah it's a good idea when you're "working" on the car not "fixing" it . I just made it so my drivers door only locks manually.

I like the fact that we can and will admit to the errors we have/will made so others can benefit and learn, we are a fine bunch of subee mechanics, Good day all........G

FIXXED!!!! It turned out to be the fusable link AND a 20 amp fuse inside. It was a middle row one and once it got replaced the alarm was doing its job. They didn't have a fusable link that was a perfect replacement at two stores (advanced and car quest) but the junk yard had extras.

 

Thanks guys.

 

Michael

Junkyard to the rescue! :-p

 

Glad it worked out cheap.

 

^yeah it's a good idea when you're "working" on the car not "fixing" it . I just made it so my drivers door only locks manually.

If my door is locked and I close it, it pops the lock lever back which unlocks the whole car. I have to hold the handle up while closing in order to lock the door.

If my door is locked and I close it, it pops the lock lever back which unlocks the whole car. I have to hold the handle up while closing in order to lock the door.

 

Gotta love the newer smart cars.