aa8jzdial Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 My daughter drove her 95 1.8 L Impreza manual tranny, 175 k miles to Phoenix 1 1/2 years ago. It has done very well until recently. She drives for 45 minutes, shuts off the motor and climbs back in 10 minutes later and it won't start 1 out of 20 times or so. If she wait another 10 to 15 minutes it fires right up. Any thoughts? She is not clueless about whats under the hood. Maybe more important, any recommended Sube repair guys in Phoenix area? She sees very few subes out that way. Thanks Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 When it doesn't start, does the starter still crank, or act like a dead battery with no crank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 CEL on? If so, she can get the codes pulled for free at most auto parts places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Maybe check electrical connections to starter? Battery clamp connectors? Might be worn copper connectors on the solenoid in the starter--a common problem. Relatively cheap fix if she can pull the starter. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj7135 Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Good information to know to help diagnose this problem would be whether or not it turn over when it doesn't start, and whether the engine sputters, tries to start, or makes no effort to start (turns over but doesn't fire). Unless it's a night and day problem where it either works perfect or not at all, i would change the plugs and wires (use NGK only). Also run injector cleaner, I would suggest the lucas fuel tretment (as it will lube the fuel-pump (which can also be a factor). Finally i would get her to listen for vacuum leaks (hissing noises) under the hood, it may just be a bad or disconnected vacuum hose. If it just doesn't turn over, my money is on a sticky starter solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aa8jzdial Posted March 5, 2011 Author Share Posted March 5, 2011 Sorry for leaving things out. I listened via her cell phone last night and it is cranking strong. I am suspicious of a loss of fuel pressure. Can she verify by ear that the fuel pump is working? I have a Forester but my ears main use is to hold my glasses on. I haven't heard a fuel pump running in years. If I was at the car I would pop the line off and check for gas pressure. I don't think I will recommend that to her near a hot engine. From what she has told me it runs fine all the rest of the time. The cel status has not been established yet either. I will suggest she verify spark during the next no start. A google search on sube/phoenix is my next step. I told her I was posting her problem here and hopefully she will chime in with direct info soon. Thanks rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 She should be able to hear the fuel pump turn on briefly when turning the key from OFF to ON. By spraying some starter fluid into the intake of the car the engine should start up if the problem is due to a lack of fuel. If it doesn't help then I would have to suspect an ignition problem. Possibly a faulty ignitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted March 5, 2011 Share Posted March 5, 2011 Once in a while, my 98 Impreza will not start on the first crank. If it turns over more then 4 times, I shut it off and then start it again. It always starts the second time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 sounds like coolant temperature sensor if it wont start every time as long as its cranking even the ignition relay could be bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 culd possibly be a crank angle sensor, based on my experience. engine codes should reveal the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj7135 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 Yah, i think it's narrowed down to either a sensor or loss of fuel pressure. Best way to check is with code reader. Lots of places do that for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wavekayaker Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 I had a similar problem on my 97 Legacy Brighton (EJ22). I never got a CEL. I replaced the cam sensor and crank sensor and never had a problem again. I believe it was the crank sensor, but it was so cheap to get both crank and cam sensors, I replaced both. Good luck PS. I checked for fuel by pulling the fuel supply line, put it into a bottle and turned on the key. It was pumping fuel. This is not the best way to do this and prob. not the safest, but when you are stuck in a parking lot, you improvise. Goo luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj7135 Posted March 6, 2011 Share Posted March 6, 2011 I checked for fuel by pulling the fuel supply line, put it into a bottle and turned on the key. It was pumping fuel. This is not the best way to do this and prob. not the safest, but when you are stuck in a parking lot, you improvise. Goo luck! Lol, a bad pump will sometimes still pump fuel, but lose pressure. Fuel pump problems are usually diagnosed audibly. I'd still try the lucas fuel treatment and see if it fixes the problem. If you're good for a month or two, look into a new fuel pump/filter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 95 Impreza still had OBD1 IIRC. She should be able to check DTC codes herself by simply connecting two plugs under the dash. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 (edited) I have a manual tranny '97 wagon and found it occasionally wouldn't start for me; not even crank over. I found that the floor mat would slip forward far enough so that the clutch couldn't be put to the floor enough to fully actuate the switch that would enable the starter. Once I figured that out and kept the floor mat where it belonged I never had the problem again. Her problem likely isn't that, but I had to bring it up. Good luck with finding the issue and resolving it. Sorry, re-read the threads and found it is cranking so it wouldn't be that. When's the last time she had the fuel filter changed? Simple solution and cheap one at that and should be tried first if it has never been changed while you've owned the car. Edited March 7, 2011 by edrach Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 Cam and crank sensor first. When it fails to start, pour cold water over them, about a quart each. Viola! It should start. Cam and crank sensors get heat soaked and fail, hence why it is starting after cooling off a bit. Fuel pump not likely fail "now" only to work a "few minutes later" and run fine. If it doesn't work you usually have to hit it to get it going, it will work for awhile, but will ultimately die soon. And fuel pumps usually don't care about hot, cold, short drive, long drive, etc. While they often only cause problems at start up, fuel pumps can die while driving. I have yet to experience a cam or crank sensor die while driving. Coolant temp sensor most likely cause of a no start issue when cold. When they fail they default to a reading like -44 F and cause the computer to go into a higher state of choke, causing excess fuel for the actual ambient air temp the car is in, say 40-50 F. Lay on the gas to wide open throttle, and keep cranking until it starts... You've got to add more air to compensate for the added fuel. It will run crappy until warmed up a bit, albeit enough to drive to the parts store to get a new sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj7135 Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 When they fail they default to a reading like -44 F and cause the computer to go into a higher state of choke, causing excess fuel for the actual ambient air temp the car is in, say 40-50 F. So would it be safe to say that a failed coolant temperature sensor can be diagnosed with the temperature gauge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted March 7, 2011 Share Posted March 7, 2011 So would it be safe to say that a failed coolant temperature sensor can be diagnosed with the temperature gauge? Nope, the two sensors don't communicate with each other. You could get the temp readings being reported to the ECU with a Scan Gauge however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GL Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 So would it be safe to say that a failed coolant temperature sensor can be diagnosed with the temperature gauge? There are two coolant temp sensors... One is a single pin/wire for the instrument cluster/gauge. The other is a two pin brown plug for the ECU. The two do not work together in any way. Olnick is right, I'm elaborating a bit on the differences for informational purposes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cj7135 Posted March 8, 2011 Share Posted March 8, 2011 There are two coolant temp sensors... One is a single pin/wire for the instrument cluster/gauge. The other is a two pin brown plug for the ECU. The two do not work together in any way. Olnick is right, I'm elaborating a bit on the differences for informational purposes. 10-4 on that. Always good to clarify. Knowledge is power! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aa8jzdial Posted March 9, 2011 Author Share Posted March 9, 2011 Lots of good ideas. The link on testing OBDI I will forward to her and save for myself. The article refers to 90 to 94 Legacys. 95 Impreza falls in that group too? We just chatted a minute ago and again she said the CEL is not on when the motor is running. If there is a code I am thinking it will be stored. Yes, no? Will a bad crank or cam sensor throw a code that will be retrievable? Kate, "If you are reading this, get a can of starter fluid for the next failure. Study the link below also." http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html I plajurized from above. Thanks for all the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shewasjustso Posted March 18, 2011 Share Posted March 18, 2011 I'm reading dad. I'll try the starter fluid and see if that helps, and I will keep you posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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