March 16, 201115 yr So a few days ago I went over to the leading Mom/Pop autobody shop and get an idea on what it would cost to have my two Fenders and Hood stripped down and refinished with the Factory #947 Mica Ruby Pearl. They said about $500, so Today I went and dropped off my panels and they are in the shop as we speak. The reason for getting this refinished is, for the past 5 years I have been living with a Hood thats been pealing and flaking, and the new Fenders I have repainted twice with Automotive grade paint/primer were starting to flake and rust. So I said enough of that, I am gonna put a stop to that NOW! After I get the Fenders and Hood back sometime this week, I am going to coat the back of the panels with POR-15 to seal it up. Anyway, since I removed the Fenders, Bumper and Hood, I figured what a better time to take care of everything else in this area and then move my way back. I have already sealed up and POR-15'd the rockers and underside of the car, now its all body work. I am also replacing any bolts I take out with Metric Stainless bolts. Now on to pictures. I am going to weld in some patches to takke care of this and then just slather it with POR-15 and make sure its sealed. I also need to get a new front valence that isn't rotted, the sides of mine where the fender bolts to are just gone, I remade then with sheet metal and bondo, but I don't want to fix it like that again. So if anyone can send my a non rotted out valence PM me and let me know the charge. This side isn't as bad, I might be able to just wire wheel it and seal it up with POR-15 since there aren't any holes. Here are some of the things I changed out with Stainless bolts. I am also removing some parts and going the Electrolosis route with them, I have done the Evap Canister bracket so far and it worked out well. I am now doing my Skid plate. Stay tuned for updates, and it you have followed the Trashwagon/Safariwagon 2 thread, you know there will be updates! -Tom Edited March 16, 201115 yr by TheLoyale
March 16, 201115 yr Wow! Very cool project. Everything looks so clean compared to my car! I don't know much about un-rusting. When you put on the POR-15 does all the rust have to be gone, or do you just have to get rid of the loose stuff? What about paint? Can you apply it over paint? I have a front valance like you're looking for. I will go check tomorrow to see how much rust is on it. Would you like me to post some pics of it? Not sure if you want to pay shipping all the way from Washington...
March 16, 201115 yr Author When using POR-15, you will want to hit any of the rust with a wire wheel, I also put rust converter over the rust (Navel Jelly) then apply the POR, either with a brush or via a spraygun. It soaks into the rust and doesn't ever come off! If you are applying over paint, you will want to scuff it up with 100grit sandpaper so the POR has something to bit onto. You can also paint over the POR. As for the front valance, sure thing, post pics in here if you like. I dunno what shipping would be like from WA, but its worth checking out anyhow. Thanks, -Tom Wow! Very cool project. Everything looks so clean compared to my car! I don't know much about un-rusting. When you put on the POR-15 does all the rust have to be gone, or do you just have to get rid of the loose stuff? What about paint? Can you apply it over paint? I have a front valance like you're looking for. I will go check tomorrow to see how much rust is on it. Would you like me to post some pics of it? Not sure if you want to pay shipping all the way from Washington...
March 16, 201115 yr You're probably already doing this, but make sure you're using anti-seize on your bolts, especially those new stainless ones. It makes everything much nicer if you ever have to remove it again.
March 17, 201115 yr Good start!! You may want to do something about the rear wheel wells as well. Looks like in one pic they are getting rusty. But good to see you're tackling it to keep it alive longer!!!! I'm going to have to do more to my BRAT this year and I'm dreading it!! Oh yeah, and get a dual range!! Haha
March 17, 201115 yr Looking good! Remember not to replace any graded bolt with those stainless ones which are usually made of 18-8 stainless which really isn't all that strong. Here's a chart a quick websearch turned up, there's probably better ones out there, http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/materials-and-grades/bolt-grade-chart.aspx Will-
March 17, 201115 yr Author Thanks for the pictures! I am checking another guys out as he is a little closer so shipping might not be as steep, I will let you know if I which way I go. Again, thank you! I see nothing wrong with the valance, mine was completely gone where the fenders bolt to, and so were the original fenders Lol! -Tom
March 17, 201115 yr Author I have for the most part rebuilt that section of rocker panel (Right behind the wheel) I welded in some metal and then sealed it up with Fiberglass and sheets. I will add a few more layers and then seal that up with POR-15 and that should be it for that part. The other side shouldn't be this much work, as its not rotted out. I will wire wheel the rust, then coat it with Fiberglass resin (Resin only) to seal it, then apply POR-15 to that. I also have to hose down my skid plate with some Aircraft stripper as the paint messed up on it. I will get some new pictures tomorrow.
March 18, 201115 yr Author An update, I rebuilt that corner with metal and welded it in, I couldn't be a consistant weld, so its more of a stich weld and thats why I sealed it up with fiberglass and resin. Next will be to add a little more fiberglass and then POR-15 it and it should be ready to rock and roll. Then onto tackle other goodness. On another note, I am getting my fenders and hood back tomorrow. The price jumped to $800 though
March 19, 201115 yr Author Just got my fenders and hood back from Hillside autobody. They look pretty good, don't think its an $800 job though, they need to do some wet sanding as there was dust particals which fell onto the paint. They didn't do the wet sanding cause they didn't have time, as they were just fresh out of the oven. Here are some teaser pictures, I will get better pictures outside tomorrow. Coated the backs on the fenders with this: I need to get some Gloss POR-15 to do the underside of the hood.
March 19, 201115 yr Looks awesome, They always seem to rot out behind the fenders :-\ I'll of my ea82's have been that way, and a few of my ea81s. Looks like you did a good job repairing that! Paint looks like it came out really well from the pics. Keep up the good work and the pics!!!
March 19, 201115 yr Author No dice on the valance. Dented up. Alright, thanks Ben. I should be getting on from WA as soon as dude gets back to me on shipping.
March 20, 201115 yr Hey man, why didnt you just repaint the whole car. Hows the paint match on that. Looks good though.
March 20, 201115 yr Author Hey man, why didnt you just repaint the whole car. Hows the paint match on that. Looks good though. The paint match is spot on. And the rest of the car doesn't need a repaint. I would prefer to still have the factory single stage paint on 80% of the car.
March 21, 201115 yr Watched it on youtube this morning. First words out of my mouth when I saw the hood was: "Oh wow!"
March 22, 201115 yr Now keep that car out of the salt or it will all come back and I PROMISE you that. What are you going to do about your rear quarters and wheel wells?
March 22, 201115 yr Author Now keep that car out of the salt or it will all come back and I PROMISE you that. What are you going to do about your rear quarters and wheel wells? The car will still be driven in winter, but I will keep up with it, the bottom hasn't rusted anymore, because even though I POR-15d it, I still anually repaint it with semi-gloss rustolium. I'm gonna clean up the wheel arches , seal them up and be done.
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