Whoops, broke the rear bleeders off today (Not leaking) but I am now going to replace both wheel cylinders and probably the hydraulic hose (Since that'll most likely f******* up as well)

 

"If it isn't broke, fix it till it is"

Whoops, broke the rear bleeders off today (Not leaking) but I am now going to replace both wheel cylinders and probably the hydraulic hose (Since that'll most likely f******* up as well)

 

"If it isn't broke, fix it till it is"

 

I broke the bleeders off the rear wheel cylinders on my GL... said eff it to drum brakes and put discs on..

I broke the bleeders off the rear wheel cylinders on my GL... said eff it to drum brakes and put discs on..

 

Well, if you can find me a complete set of rear discs for $36.60, then I'll do so

 

You think you hated your EA82 drums, try a Toyota OMG! (Bad design for sure)

Well, if you can find me a complete set of rear discs for $36.60, then I'll do so

 

You think you hated your EA82 drums, try a Toyota OMG! (Bad design for sure)

 

I did rear drum brakes on a toyota truck once. They weren't too bad, really. Just a lot of little bits and pieces to keep straight.

This video makes me laugh at the end

 

Mine sounds better

I didnt feel like searching your thread to find it but I saw an EA82 with the same headlight covers you ordered for your car. theses are the only two places I have seen them.

Ask and you shall receive.

 

 

 

 

what kinda tires are you running? and are those just the stock 13" wheels? do you have a lift on that?

2" SJR Lift

27" Maxxis Bighorns

14" Peugeot 505 steelies (Powder coated)

 

 

Edited September 30, 201114 yr by TheLoyale

Planning on storing this beast in my garage for the winter.

Whats next for Safariwagon? Next spring I am replace Struts all around with KYBs. I may also get some Epoxy paint and repaint the springs Gray.

 

Since this thread is winding down for the time being, follow Safariwagon-II "The Landcruiser Build"

I have to ask. how hard was doing the lift? i have been thinking about it. Was extending the steering column hard? I mean I am 17 and don't really know much at all. and this is my only car ahahaha.

I have to ask. how hard was doing the lift? i have been thinking about it. Was extending the steering column hard? I mean I am 17 and don't really know much at all. and this is my only car ahahaha.

 

With a 2" lift you do not need to lengthen the steering shaft, as you don't need to lower the Crossmember.

 

For a 2" lift, all you are doing is putting a spacer block on top of the strut to (In a sense, push the body up, being a Uni-body) So the lift is straight forward. If you go bigger then 2", you will need to drop down the crossmember (Motor and all) - depending on the lift size, you can use a Steering shaft from a Outback ('95-'99) as it is longer and will work perfectly. You will also need to make a longer engine pitch stopper bar. You also need to drop down the rear diff and mustach bar.

 

If theres anything you want to know, just ask. I know a few tricks on installing the lift.

 

-Tom

 

PS: this is the steering shaft (Its a double U-joint style) this is the only thing that would need to be longer. This picture is of one from a Forester which would also work.

Edited October 2, 201114 yr by TheLoyale

Also, if you go over 2" - you will need to get a longer hydraulic soft line (From the brake caliper to the hard line junction on the wheel well)

With a 2" lift you do not need to lengthen the steering shaft, as you don't need to lower the Crossmember.

 

For a 2" lift, all you are doing is putting a spacer block on top of the strut to (In a sense, push the body up, being a Uni-body) So the lift is straight forward. If you go bigger then 2", you will need to drop down the crossmember (Motor and all) - depending on the lift size, you can use a Steering shaft from a Outback ('95-'99) as it is longer and will work perfectly. You will also need to make a longer engine pitch stopper bar. You also need to drop down the rear diff and mustach bar.

 

If theres anything you want to know, just ask. I know a few tricks on installing the lift.

 

-Tom

 

PS: this is the steering shaft (Its a double U-joint style) this is the only thing that would need to be longer. This picture is of one from a Forester which would also work.

 

well i wouldn't want to go over 2" anyways. so if i just get this sjr 2" lift kit i can just drop it onto the top of the struts basically and i am good. nothing else really necessary? take about an hour? What kinda tools would i need?

 

Also what is this? is this a hub conversion to go to 5 x100? Wheel Adapter VW5 to Subaru 4 x 140

Yeah pretty much just drop the blocks on top of the struts and your good. It will take a few hours,

 

For the front:

 

Take off wheels, Un-bolt 3 10mm bolts on top of the strut tower, Un-bolt your Tie-rod from the hub (17mm Castle nut) Un-bolt the one 14mm bolt/nut that holds the control arm to the cross member, Un-bolt the 12mm bolt that holds the sway-bar end to the Control arm, Then un-bolt the two 17mm bolts/nuts that hold the Radius rod to the control arm. You might also need to pop the axle off the transmission (Punch out the Roll pin and slide the axle off the trans stub)

 

You should then have enough movement/space to get the block on top of the strut, bolt that down, then get the strut back up into the tower, and reverse everything to re-assemble it.

 

One tip on getting the Control arm end lined back up into the cross member so the bolt goes in is to, loosen the two 17mm Crossmember nuts (Which will start to drop the crossmember/engine) this will give you the added clearence to get the control arm back into the crossmember. (I know, this sounds like a lot of BS, but its very easy once you're looking at it)

 

Also, once everything is back on and torqued down, re-install the 12mm bolt/nut for the sway bar once the vehicle is on the ground (It will be much easier to flex the bar back into place)

 

I can get you pictures of everything I talked about if you want.

As for the SJR hub conversion plates, those are to take the 4x140 hubs and make them work with VW 5x205 wheels (Baja style wheels) I had a set of these plates once.

 

Your best bet is to find a set of Peugeot 505 wheels, as those are 4x140 and will be either 14" or 15" - the XT6 5x100 hub conversion would be worth it though. You could start running newer Subaru parts (From Legacy and Impreza) Strut combos etc.

As for the SJR hub conversion plates, those are to take the 4x140 hubs and make them work with VW 5x205 wheels (Baja style wheels) I had a set of these plates once.

 

Your best bet is to find a set of Peugeot 505 wheels, as those are 4x140 and will be either 14" or 15" - the XT6 5x100 hub conversion would be worth it though. You could start running newer Subaru parts (From Legacy and Impreza) Strut combos etc.

 

I am so tempted to try and do the xt6 conversion. But i don't think i would be able to. Well maybe. Idk. Half that stuff you talked about the lift I would have no idea how to do. But I think i want to do that. My car aspires to be like yours!

I'm sure you can do it, its very easy, you can't really screw anything up. You're taking large items off, so just make sure you put them back on how they were.

 

Rust is going to be the main culprit to an issue, things may not come loose, thats when Heat and Deepcreep come into play.

Safariwagon Travels:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited October 6, 201114 yr by TheLoyale

Just an update, This will probably be the last time you will see any update to this rig, or any other, as I will probably get banned in a short time.

 

It's been a good run.

Nice Subie, Tom! Nice Pictures.

 

Let me Tell you that the Landscapes around there Looks So Flat, like a Valley...

 

here is Extremly Mountainous:

 

 

Kind Regards.

I cant for the life of me find 14" Maxxis Bighorns....

 

I can only find them in 15"

 

Wheres your source?