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what would cause a stuck 5 MT?


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wont shift from 1st to 2nd (car stalls out) and all the other gears are the same..

 

1997 legacy outback

 

Might be stuck in 2 gears at once because of worn shift components.

I`ve had that happen on other cars.

 

Does pressing the clutch disengage the drive in 1st?

Even if the clutch is not releasing,it should be possible to shift gears w/o touching the clutch at all w/a little skill.

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This is what I got back

 

"The clutch was replaced around this time last year it was fine up until January when I replaced a gear link between 1st and 2nd that's when it started giving me trouble. I was driving and I was turning a corner in 1st and went to switch into 2nd and the car did a jerk and stopped. The engine was still running but when I tried to put it into 1st it wouldn't go 2nd same thing I even tried to put it in reverse and it wouldn't go."

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Anyone know what the gearing is for the 97 outback 5mt?

 

4.11 final drive. not sure about the rest.

 

Gotta be in 2 gears at once. might be able to reset it by unsecrewing the cover plate on the AWD extension, and removing the reverse check arm screw (allow the shift rod to float free). Then remove the 3 plugs, springs, and balls from the fork detents (drivers side, about halfway up the trans).

 

ONce you do that, the forks should all be free to shift to the Nuetral position. Look in the holes for the each rod to be on the center notch. Reinstall the detent balls and springs.

 

Now the shift rod can be reset into the forks, and the reverse lockout screw replaced.

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Ahh your talking greek to me right now (no subaru transmission to look at)

 

It's gotta be 4.11 as well..

 

Ok so let me understand.. I think the cover plate is on the top of the transmission right?

 

But I don't understand where the rest of this stuff is (3 plugs, springs, and balls) Is that all in the cover plate or something that connects to the outside?

 

and this lockout screw it's inside the plate as well? will a 5 MT that's open show these parts? I'm not sure if my haynes manual has it.

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Ahh your talking greek to me right now (no subaru transmission to look at)

 

It's gotta be 4.11 as well..

 

Ok so let me understand.. I think the cover plate is on the top of the transmission right?

 

But I don't understand where the rest of this stuff is (3 plugs, springs, and balls) Is that all in the cover plate or something that connects to the outside?

 

and this lockout screw it's inside the plate as well? will a 5 MT that's open show these parts? I'm not sure if my haynes manual has it.

 

Plate on top rear. ONce removed, look down inside.....you can see the shift rod goes through that section of the case. it has a little "finger" bolted to it that engages the reverse check. 10 mm bolt (use a 1/4 drive socket on an extension)

 

The 3 plugs are right on the side of the trans. They are simply detent ball holders. again, 10mm heads.

 

You could check out my "easy front seal" replacement thread.....it's got some good pics and a writeup of disassembly/reassembly.

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Plate on top rear. ONce removed, look down inside.....you can see the shift rod goes through that section of the case. it has a little "finger" bolted to it that engages the reverse check. 10 mm bolt (use a 1/4 drive socket on an extension)

 

The 3 plugs are right on the side of the trans. They are simply detent ball holders. again, 10mm heads.

 

You could check out my "easy front seal" replacement thread.....it's got some good pics and a writeup of disassembly/reassembly.

 

Haha somehow I just came to that thread looking at the google image search i'm going to save those pictures :)

 

So in order to reset it I need to take the rear casing off the transmission? from your impression it seems like I just need to open up the cover plate and get the shift rod unstuck.

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Haha somehow I just came to that thread looking at the google image search i'm going to save those pictures :)

 

So in order to reset it I need to take the rear casing off the transmission? from your impression it seems like I just need to open up the cover plate and get the shift rod unstuck.

 

You shouldn't HAVE to.

 

But it would make it much easier. Not my origianl suggestion though.

 

IDK though......it may be tough without a real good "mental image" to work from. You migh want to take of the rear of trans. It's not too hard really:rolleyes:

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I'm not 100% on this but I don't think that cover plate is easily accesible without pulling the transmission. And if the car was *moving* when this happened and assuming it is in 2 gears at once.... the transmission is shot. There's possibly broken teeth, and in any case the shift linkage got so sloppy that this happened in the first place..... that pretty much indicates it's a gonner. I wouldn't reuse that transmission without openening it up and inspecting at the very least.

 

GD

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I'm not 100% on this but I don't think that cover plate is easily accesible without pulling the transmission.

 

GD

 

You can drop just the crossmembers and let it droop down in back a bit to get to it. Eaiser on an OUtbakc or Forrester as opposed to a Leg.

 

 

I would tend to think opening it up would be a good idea too. But if you can reset the forks. it might be worth a try.

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Oh I know for a fact that you can't get to the cover plate without getting the transmission out.

 

From the email she sent me

 

"I was driving and I was turning a corner in 1st and went to switch into 2nd and the car did a jerk and stopped. The engine was still running but when I tried to put it into 1st it wouldn't go 2nd same thing I even tried to put it in reverse and it wouldn't go."

 

When I think of jerked and stop I think of locked wheels.. I'm not sure how strong the 5Mt gears are but I should expect broken teeth.. I mean it's no biggy I'm sure it's easy to find another transmission.. is the final drive on the case?

 

Another thing thinking while typing she said she tried to move it to 2nd and reverse which might be possible the shifter still moves?

 

I know it's not the same but when I totaled my legacy my shifter got stuck in first gear and it was impossible to move it (might of been because the motor shifted)

 

i'm not too concerned about the pulling the rear I'm just curious how it did what it did.

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"The clutch was replaced around this time last year it was fine up until January when I replaced a gear link between 1st and 2nd that's when it started giving me trouble.

 

 

Re-reading. And thinking more about this. I'd say, don't bother with this trans. Sounds like it's been opened and messed up.

 

There is a pin inside the LH case, between the selector forks, that makes it so only one selector fork can be moved at a time. If they replaced the "gear link" (thinking the collar that connects the 1st and 2nd gears to the pinion shaft when activated) they may have had to remove the selector forks, and consequently, the pin.

 

They may have not gotten that rotten little hard as @#@% little pin back into it's place. they may have lost it, or left it out when unable to figure out what it does.

 

It HAS to be missing, or else there is no way to get into more gears than one. No matter what the linkage does.

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You can drop just the crossmembers and let it droop down in back a bit to get to it. Eaiser on an OUtbakc or Forrester as opposed to a Leg.

 

 

I would tend to think opening it up would be a good idea too. But if you can reset the forks. it might be worth a try.

 

really with it still bolted to the engine? maybe it's because when I was looking on my legacy I had a hard time fitting under the car without a lift and I'm a pretty small guy (125 LB)

 

I think I will just drop the tranny however.. and I guess with everything open should i replace the clutch again or not? my legacy they put a new clutch in but left the old TOB which it rattled and rattled for like 2 years until it stopped doing it when clutching in.

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Re-reading. And thinking more about this. I'd say, don't bother with this trans. Sounds like it's been opened and messed up.

 

There is a pin inside the LH case, between the selector forks, that makes it so only one selector fork can be moved at a time. If they replaced the "gear link" (thinking the collar that connects the 1st and 2nd gears to the pinion shaft when activated) they may have had to remove the selector forks, and consequently, the pin.

 

They may have not gotten that rotten little hard as @#@% little pin back into it's place. they may have lost it, or left it out when unable to figure out what it does.

 

It HAS to be missing, or else there is no way to get into more gears than one. No matter what the linkage does.

 

 

yeah I was lost on what "gear Link" meant.. Is this pin shown in any of your pictures in your thread?

 

is this picture showing it here?

 

100_5890.jpg

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hmmm check out post number 13..

 

*edit read from the start.. same issue but he said his was the shifter selector and had it fixed in one day so Gloyale was his problem what you are talking about checking in that cover?

 

http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/111290-shifter-fork-no-idea-whats-wrong-2.html#post1743845

 

Just searching on google for subaru shift forks I wonder how many are going to think it snapped?

 

IMG_2036b.jpg

Edited by 1-3-2-4
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You can move it by hand.

 

This pic:

100_5890.jpg\

Is one of the shift forks. It either jammed or someone forced the trans into gear and bent it.

 

I don't think it's worth trying to speculate what happened. If the car is a good deal buy it and put another trans in. Figure out why the old one locked up after you get it out where you can see what you're doing with it.

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I don't think it's worth trying to speculate what happened. If the car is a good deal buy it and put another trans in. Figure out why the old one locked up after you get it out where you can see what you're doing with it.

 

+1 -It's most likely fried. Just install a used one and then open it up to learn how they work. Then you won't have to ask so many questions next time :).

 

I've seen some UGLY internal failures on 5MT's. Everything from gear sets torn apart, to bearing failures, to center diff's that have eaten themselves... and everything in-between. There's a lot that can go wrong inside there if people are really mean to them.

 

It is unlikely that it's something you can fix and have any kind of "good feeling" about using. There's often so much metal inside them that I wouldn't feel good about using the parts that are "still good". I just rebuilt an STi 5MT from Japan.... I told the customer going in that it would make noises in some of the gears from the wear. But there was nothing to do about it - it's a special STi gearset - close ratio.... can't get replacements. And it does whine in 2,3, and 4. But it works great so he's happy.

 

GD

Edited by GeneralDisorder
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