El Presidente Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 I've been researching the best way to lift my 87 GL, and have heard of a couple guys running extended radius rods, from 1.25" to 1.5" more, to improve castor angles. From what I can tell, it also helps move the front tire away from the rear of the front wheel well, which helps when running bigger tires. How are you guys doing this? I've heard of this mod as "sleeving the radius rods", but I can't find how this is properly done. I'm thinking you just cut the radius rod, and put a piece of 3/4ish square tube over it and weld it up...sound right? Pictures would be great! I'm building a 6" front/5" rear with a 5" drop on my engine crossmember, 4" tranny/radius drop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 Cut the radious rod in half.then find a piece of tube that fits snug over the rod then weld it solid with how ever much length you need. when I put on EA82 control arms and struts and axles on my EA81 I extended the radious rod 1.5" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted April 22, 2011 Share Posted April 22, 2011 You really don't need to do this, infact it will screw up your alignment, I wouldn't even consider this. I tried something like this on a lifted rig because of a 5 lug swap. In hindsight I should have swapped out the center section of the front axles, live and learn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 You really don't need to do this, infact it will screw up your alignment, I wouldn't even consider this. I tried something like this on a lifted rig because of a 5 lug swap. In hindsight I should have swapped out the center section of the front axles, live and learn. Interesting, my understanding is that the GL EA82's generally have slight negative castor which amplifies any positive camber from a lift and creates understeer in corners. From what I've read, extending the radius rod will provide slight positive caster, which will help with this. Am I wrong? The only thing I can see it screwing up is the castor(which I'm trying to adjust) and the toe, which can be adjusted at the tie rod ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 If you move the bottoms out you will pull your axles apart, which is not good, unless you lengthen the axles. If you account for the angle when you make the drop blocks and offset your bottom from your top so it is still directly below you won't have any camber issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 If you move the bottoms out you will pull your axles apart, which is not good, unless you lengthen the axles. If you account for the angle when you make the drop blocks and offset your bottom from your top so it is still directly below you won't have any camber issues. he's talking about lengthening the radius (leading) rod, not the control arm. Lengthening the radius rod pushes the bottoms forward (caster), not out. I put small (1/2"?) spacers behind the forward bushing on the rod to push things forward on a couple cars at stock ride height. There's also a company that makes adjustable ones, they can be found from many sources (I know I've seen them on rockauto). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 23, 2011 Author Share Posted April 23, 2011 he's talking about lengthening the radius (leading) rod, not the control arm. Lengthening the radius rod pushes the bottoms forward (caster), not out. I put small (1/2"?) spacers behind the forward bushing on the rod to push things forward on a couple cars at stock ride height. There's also a company that makes adjustable ones, they can be found from many sources (I know I've seen them on rockauto). Yes, I'm trying to move the ball joint forward, not out. Did you notice an improvement in handling and tire wear by moving your radius rod forward 1/2"? Do you know what your castor angle is now? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NoahDL88 Posted April 23, 2011 Share Posted April 23, 2011 Ok, my bad, although lengthening the control arms is still a bad idea. Caster angle is pretty important, if you go too far in either direction handling goes downhill pretty fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted April 25, 2011 Share Posted April 25, 2011 Mine are 1.50 inches out to help clear the 30s it has been a very good mod so far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 25, 2011 Author Share Posted April 25, 2011 Mine are 1.50 inches out to help clear the 30s it has been a very good mod so far Right on, somebody thats done it! I've got some 30x9.50's BFG Mudders ready to go on... How does it affect your driveability on and offroad? We are talking about a ea82 right? Did you sleeve it like Uberoo suggested? How much suspension lift do you have - difference in lift between the struts and the engine crossmember? I'm planning on 1" lift and 5" drop at the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 doesnt make any difference in ride geometry is still the same just forward I suggest you make sure the rubber bushings are good on the arms but I have no issues just make sure the weld is good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael appel Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 I bought the adjustables they are junk bent them then broke them right away So I made a sleeve but make sur the arms are 16 inches long exactly that is the sweet spot they will go right on at this length I also have a 4 inch lift with 30s you want to go 4 inch with 4 inch drop trust me Right on, somebody thats done it! I've got some 30x9.50's BFG Mudders ready to go on... How does it affect your driveability on and offroad? We are talking about a ea82 right? Did you sleeve it like Uberoo suggested? How much suspension lift do you have - difference in lift between the struts and the engine crossmember? I'm planning on 1" lift and 5" drop at the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 I have been running extended rods on my lifted wagon for over a year. Definitely help with tire clearance at the rear of the front fender. Mine are sleeved/extended 1.25" on a 6" lifted car rolling 29" tires for the record.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 doesnt make any difference in ride geometry is still the same just forward I suggest you make sure the rubber bushings are good on the arms but I have no issues just make sure the weld is good So theres no difference in handling? Whenever you move the balljoint or strut tower forward/back, your changing caster angle, which has most affect at highway speeds and corners. Some vehicles are more sensitive to caster change than others thats why I'm asking, to gauge whats best for me and what I do/planning to do. I bought the adjustables they are junk bent them then broke them right away So I made a sleeve but make sur the arms are 16 inches long exactly that is the sweet spot they will go right on at this length I also have a 4 inch lift with 30syou want to go 4 inch with 4 inch drop trust me 16" from where to where? Do you have some pics of your rig? I thought about 4",but I don't want to have to bash and cut the hell out of my rig. I want the body clearance a 6" provides and the way I see it, if I don't like 6", I can go to 4":grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 28, 2011 Author Share Posted April 28, 2011 I have been running extended rods on my lifted wagon for over a year. Definitely help with tire clearance at the rear of the front fender. Mine are sleeved/extended 1.25" on a 6" lifted car rolling 29" tires for the record.. You've got a sweet ride man! I think yours was the one that got this whole idea rolling in my head.. How much drop do you have at the crossmember? Any change in handling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted April 28, 2011 Share Posted April 28, 2011 16" from where to where? Do you have some pics of your rig? This is my rig, with Mikes radius rods. If you do buy/make some I highly HIGHLY recommend installing them when you are installing your lift blocks. I pretty much had to drop 6 of my lift blocks to get my arms to bolt up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 29, 2011 Author Share Posted April 29, 2011 This is my rig, with Mikes radius rods. If you do buy/make some I highly HIGHLY recommend installing them when you are installing your lift blocks. I pretty much had to drop 6 of my lift blocks to get my arms to bolt up. Yeah, I'm trying to do my homework before I get started. Thed front looks awesome! Your rear tire looks like it would mash pretty good on front of the well if you put some weight on that tire..any problems with that? What size tire are you running? Is that a 6"front/6"rear lift? By Mike do you mean michael appel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted April 29, 2011 Share Posted April 29, 2011 yeah sorry Mike = michael appel. Thats a 4" lift with 225/70R14's. I haven't gotten to drive it that much, I'm still finishing up my swap but the rear end seems to squat pushing the tire away from that fender, thats also the side I DIDN'T cut anything on. yet:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted April 30, 2011 Share Posted April 30, 2011 The rear wheel being pulled forward like that is because the crossmember was left up against the body (the correct way to do it, IMHO). It looks a little goofy, but because the suspension pivot point is right at the body, it can't get any closer there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share Posted April 30, 2011 The rear wheel being pulled forward like that is because the crossmember was left up against the body (the correct way to do it, IMHO). It looks a little goofy, but because the suspension pivot point is right at the body, it can't get any closer there. I've haven't heard of not dropping the crossmember on anything over 2", but I can see how it might be better. So to lift like Tosh did, you just drop the rear diff and then move the shock-mounts down? Can you do that at 6"? or would it be best to put a 2" block at the crossmember? Thanks for all the input guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 Idk, I would ask michael about it. I was looking into/thinking about doing a 1-2inch drop of the rear sub frame to get it to "look" right. But I'm beginning to like it just the way it is. here's a shot from the other side where I've done some trimming on the rear fender. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Numbchux Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 I've haven't heard of not dropping the crossmember on anything over 2", but I can see how it might be better. So to lift like Tosh did, you just drop the rear diff and then move the shock-mounts down? Can you do that at 6"? or would it be best to put a 2" block at the crossmember? Thanks for all the input guys! worked great on the 4" setups I've done. Honestly, I don't see the need for anything beyond that unless you're doing a subframe, divorced tcase etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tosh Posted May 1, 2011 Share Posted May 1, 2011 yeah 4 inch is a LOT bigger then what I thought it would be. I saw a lot of pics of the 2 inch lifts and I wanted something bigger then that. I'm 6'5 and my front and rear bumpers are almost at my hips. I can roll under the rear end and the engine on a creeper without jacking it up. Its plenty big. The only reason to go bigger is if you wanted to run a T-case like Numbchux was saying or if you wanted to run some 31"+ tires (in my opinion). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
El Presidente Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share Posted May 1, 2011 I'm going 6":grin: Future plans involve rock sliders that will probaly end up turning into a subframe/unibody stiffener. I also need the room under the lower core support for a winch. I really like the breakover angle a 6" has too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted May 4, 2011 Share Posted May 4, 2011 I have yet to do the front radius rod extension, but i'm strongly considering it. Help with turning clearances with my new BFG's and toyota rims. Here is an old picture... You can see how my old school BYB/Ozified lift keeps the rear tire centered. I find this setup a lot more visually appealing. IMO Tosh's car just looks off with how offset the wheels are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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