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98 leg with 2.2 swap running rich


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hi guys i had a post about this earlier and i cant find it so im starting a new one.. I have a 98 legacy which i had the 2.2 swap done. car ran great for months but one day it started running like crap. Its at the third mechanic now.. anyways he found the MAF to be completely dead. he put a brand new 200$ MAF on it and it fixed the idle he said but still have the missfire. 3 out of 4 plugs are fouled completely black. He is telling me the car is running too rich and he says its the injectors. However the last mechanic i had it too swapped the intake with a known good intake with good injectors and everything so i know the injectors are good... any ideas? Thanks.

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have the plugs and wires ever been replaced?

any check engine light?

is it idling high or any other symptoms at all or drives perfect?

 

maybe the ECU temp sensor isn't working properly, CTS. i've never heard of those failing but maybe it's not plugged in (though then i'd expect a code and unlikely it got missed twice with both intake swaps)....so unlikely but maybe worth looking at.

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yes new plugs oem wires coil all those have been checked and replaced. No CEL. it was just idling rough before the maf was replaced i think he said that fixed the idle but still have the miss. the car runs like crap. i did however notice a sensor that was unplugged. it was right above the knock sensor on the right side of the throttle. im not sure what it goes to but i figured it wasnt a big deal because no one told me anything about it. i assumed that it was just left out because of the 2.2 swap

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pretty sure all sensors should be plugged in - can you post a picture of the sensor that's not plugged in?

 

if it's running rich it could be dumping too much fuel and burning up your catalytic converter - too much fuel will ruin them, maybe even melt/clog them?

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Unplugged connector is probably an EGR solenoid by the discription of the location. Swapped engine so that makes sense.
he said "no CEL", which is impossible with the EGR unplugged unless the bulb is out (a few of us have tried rewiring, swapping non-EGR ECU's and intake manifold harness so far to no avail.) i wish someone would figure that out.

 

have the codes read - if there's a code but no CEL then your light isn't working. and the code itself may be very helpful in tracking down this issue.

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Yeah that true - if it really was a 2.5 swapped out for a 2.2 then it would require the EGR...... but that's only true if this was a legacy GT or Outback..... plain legacy would have been a 2.2 already and wouldn't have the EGR.....

 

Or the bulb could be burned out.... who knows frankly. Too many cooks in the kitchen I suspect. Once you have a car with a swapped engine - who knows what someone did.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

P0183 - Fuel temp sensor

P0341 - Cam posistion sensor

P0403 - EGR Solenoid (probably the unplugged connector)

P1100 - MAF sensor

 

I would say the MAF and Cam sensor's are your biggest problem. The fuel temp thing must be either an actual failure of the sensor or someone swapped in a different ECU that is looking for one and the car doesn't have one. It's down in the tank with the pump and the fuel level sender.

 

EGR is that unplugged connector I'm betting.

 

BTW - any code you get you can just type into google and you'll immediately see what that code refer's to based on what pops up. They are universal codes used by all manufacturers until you get really high up in the numbers and start getting into brand specific codes. None of your's are.

 

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Thank you, i tested the cam sensor and the resistance was 2400 ohms so it was ok. i put on a brand new maf and the car still runs like crap so im guessing its a wiring harness problem or something with wiring. I have been using my obd-2 scanner and i recorded a log file of whats going on when the engine is running if anyone knows anything about what the values should be while the engine is running and could maybe point me in the right direction iid appreciate it. i noticed the ignition timing advance changed alot when it was missing.. would that be because of the knock sensor?

0,1,13," Vehicle Speed 0 MPH 0 Km/h"

0,1,12," Engine RPM 1438 RPM"

0,1,17," Throttle Position Sensor (absolute) 0.0 %"

0,1,4," Calculated Engine Load Value 7.8 %"

0,1,4," Calculated Engine Load Value 7.8 %"

0,1,5," Engine Coolant Temperature 117 degF 47 degC"

0,1,14," Ignition Timing Advance 33.0 deg"

0,1,11," Intake Manif. Pressure (absolute) 11.2 in.hg 38 kPaA"

0,1,16," MAF sensor Air Flow Rate 1.2 lb/min 8.9 gm/s"

0,1,16," MAF sensor Air Flow Rate 1.2 lb/min 8.74 gm/s"

1,1,12," 1250"

1,1,12," 1275"

1,1,12," 1275"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1288"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1300"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1275"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1250"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1650"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1713"

1,1,5," 118"

1,1,12," 1438"

1,1,5," 118"

Edited by Scotty1419
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I have seen these codes. The cam position sensor code is usually due to a timing belt being one tooth off at the crank.... You have to take off the pulley to varify..... seen this two times. hope this helps.

Does the car run good for 10-20 min then acting funny?

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I have seen these codes. The cam position sensor code is usually due to a timing belt being one tooth off at the crank.... You have to take off the pulley to varify..... seen this two times. hope this helps.

Does the car run good for 10-20 min then acting funny?

 

well i just had the timing belt off to verify it was all tdc. i dont think i missed a tooth.. ugh i really dont want to do all that again.. the car runs like crap all around tho form the moment it starts up

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