idosubaru Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 Been tracking this drain on my XT6 forever and not sure how i missed this: 95 milliamp drain with *all* - every fuse pulled in the fuse panel 5 milliamp drain if I pull the fusible link for the fuse box 195 milliamp total draw with all fuses/fusible links in place What's next? Are there any non-fused circuits associated with the same fusible link that the fuse box is on (i thought the answer is no but electrical is not my thing)? So the fusible link box or fuse panel is bad? Anyway to test/find out? Are they hard to swap out - one easier? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 GG, Hardly an electrical expert but I have had alternators fail that have seemingly caused this. Have you had it tested? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dragonfire Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 having a simular issue. checked fuses, panels. seemlingly getting no where. my 89 XT 1.8 4 wheel drive seems to be ok for now. it has been two weeks and no drain as of yet. i had altenator checked good. checked fuseible links good. checked for loose conections. those were all good. i did use an ohm meter to check for draws. seems that everything was ok. but like you not much of an eletrical person when it comes to cars. i say the same as davebugs says. check the alternator. make sure it is working correctly. i had alternator checked and cleaned all ground straps and been two weeks running fine. even let it sit for 4 days and still starts. anytime the XT sat for more than 2 days the battery would be dead. and checked all inside lights and etc... all where non issues. is it possible for the starter solenoid be part of the problem? i have noticed mine clicks once or twice then starts but with no drag from a low battery. maybe check that as well. gonna pull the starter and have it checked too. i hope that was informative and helpful:-\. i have had same kind of problem on an old ford truck. but much less wiring on a 77 F-100. lol. like what nine wires total...... much easier to check for problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 sweet, good and easy check. no i haven't checked that, seems odd for alt to be tied to one particular fusible link and the fuse box. electrical is not my thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myxalplyx Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Been tracking this drain on my XT6 forever and not sure how i missed this: 95 milliamp drain with *all* - every fuse pulled in the fuse panel 5 milliamp drain if I pull the fusible link for the fuse box 195 milliamp total draw with all fuses/fusible links in place What's next? Are there any non-fused circuits associated with the same fusible link that the fuse box is on (i thought the answer is no but electrical is not my thing)? So the fusible link box or fuse panel is bad? Anyway to test/find out? Are they hard to swap out - one easier? Have you tried this --> http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain I am sure you have based on what you stated above but I'm REALLY ignorant of electrical anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 pulled the two wire electrical connector on the alt and the drain went from 200 to 100 milliamps. is it the alternator itself or could something in that circuit be bad? do i measure resistance next of those two wires...or.....just swap alt's i guess that's easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 I've just swapped alternators. I believe it is something internal. When they test an alternator at a parts store they test it's OUTPUT not it's draw. An electrical shop will test what you did if you tell them what you suspect. I'm still not an electrical guy - but have had this happen to me on non Subaru's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 pulled the two wire electrical connector on the alt and the drain went from 200 to 100 milliamps. is it the alternator itself or could something in that circuit be bad? do i measure resistance next of those two wires...or.....just swap alt's i guess that's easy enough. The main output wire of the alternator ties to the battery through the main fusible link. Remove that lead also and see what your current drain is then. Since the lead is hot remove the battery ground lead first before you work on it and keep the lead isolated from touching anything. You have already proved the alternator has a problem with the sense lead so the alternator needs to be replaced. Maybe the rest of the excess current draw is going through the main lead. Blocking diodes inside the alternator can fail and cause this kind trouble. Normal current draw should be less than 30 milliamps and maybe around 15-20 as an average. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 i get really happy when i have an electrical question and see cougar replying :banana: i feel like the end is near! removing the bolt on main alternator (the hot) wire did not decrease the draw at all, only the plastic two wire connector which decreased it by 100 milliamps. i'll swap the alt and see where we're at. thanks Normal current draw should be less than 30 milliamps and maybe around 15-20 as an average.hmm, so i went from 195 down to 95....i found a 100 milliamp draw but still have another?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 i get really happy when i have an electrical question and see cougar replying :banana: i feel like the end is near! Yep. I don't believe I've ever needed his help but he knows his stuff. And about a topic I strongly dislike! Which is when the help is appreciated the most! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Yeah - I would swap the alt and see what's up. There should be no drain through the alternator. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 Suggestion: With all the fuses out, also pull all the fusible links. Then set your voltmeter on current range and see which fusible link is drawing how much current. Hopefully this will tell you which branch of the power tree you need to search out to find the current draw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Suggestion: With all the fuses out, also pull all the fusible links. Then set your voltmeter on current range and see which fusible link is drawing how much current. Hopefully this will tell you which branch of the power tree you need to search out to find the current draw.awesome! i got alternator to swap and a few extra readings to take. appreciate it all. almost can't wait to get home! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Thanks for the vote of confidence guys. I'm glad to help you out of your electrical woes. Edrach is a good man also for things like this. Grossgary stated in the original post that the current drain dropped when the fusible link to the fuse panel was pulled. One of the fuses in there should tie to the sense lead of the alternator so that part of the problem has been found. If there still is a current drain with the alternator and the lead to the fuse panel disconnected then it would seem to me that something extra has been added to the power buss somewhere. If there is still a problem with the fuse panel connected then there should be a fuse inside it that will tie to the trouble circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 cougar - looks like i'm getting somewhere but is getting complicated. seems like it might be related to another problem i had and never fixed a year ago. XT6's have retractable headlights - these never go down, they'll go up, but never down - even after i replaced every single component in the system (motors, timer, controller, some box, relays, fuses, etc)...... so i'm wondering if a bad diode is to blame for it all. they can cause drains (says google) and might be causing more drain i have and the lights not retracting and the FSM shows a diode in the mix. another thread about that: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125912 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 If you suspect the lights are causing the drain then simply disconnect the power to them and check your current again. If the current drops down to a normal level or zero then you have found the other drain problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 31, 2011 Author Share Posted August 31, 2011 If you suspect the lights are causing the drain then simply disconnect the power to them and check your current again. If the current drops down to a normal level or zero then you have found the other drain problem. i'll give that a try - easy check, thanks. seems blatantly obvious now that you say it. start disconnecting light stuff until/if the drain goes away. i have a 50 milliamp drain through a green fusible links that have zero drain in my other XT6's. the retractable light system is really convoluted, with lots of relays, controller boxes, etc hopefully i can isolate something. mucho thanks. i would really like to fix it, XT6's do not look cool with the lights left open! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 1, 2011 Share Posted September 1, 2011 I seem to remember you saying you had the factory wiring diagrams and if so you can look to see what the green fusible link ties to and check those circuits. If pulling all the fuses tied to that link still doesn't clear the drain then something has most likely been added to that branch of the circuit. Something before the fuses and after the green link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted September 2, 2011 Author Share Posted September 2, 2011 removed instrument cluster and control pods (lights, wipers, etc) because the speedo was bad. with those removed the drain at the green fusible link was zero?!?! but i still have 75 milliamp with no radio installed at the main red fusible link. that's still too high isn't it? so its gone from 200....to 125 after swapping alternator....now down to 75 after removing instrument cluster/control pods. just weird having that many drains - bad alt fried multiple things? but i haven't seen that happen to anyone else with a failed alt? in an attempt to see which was causing it I plugged them all back in with the parts on the floor and the drain did not return...GRRRR:lol: note: there was one really hot connector with some brown spots, and some electrical tape on one wire of that same connector - like someone messed with it before. also the speedo cable was leaking oil profusely, it's all over connectors (but not the hot one), etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I LOVE electrical.... Good luck Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 I've just swapped alternators. I believe it is something internal. When they test an alternator at a parts store they test it's OUTPUT not it's draw. An electrical shop will test what you did if you tell them what you suspect. I'm still not an electrical guy - but have had this happen to me on non Subaru's. Altenator tests at autoiparts stores are 100% useless. You need to test it on the car at idle then with everything on and at 1800 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted September 2, 2011 Share Posted September 2, 2011 cougar - looks like i'm getting somewhere but is getting complicated. seems like it might be related to another problem i had and never fixed a year ago. XT6's have retractable headlights - these never go down, they'll go up, but never down - even after i replaced every single component in the system (motors, timer, controller, some box, relays, fuses, etc)...... so i'm wondering if a bad diode is to blame for it all. they can cause drains (says google) and might be causing more drain i have and the lights not retracting and the FSM shows a diode in the mix. another thread about that: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125912 A diode is basically a one way vlave. If the one way vlave leaks, there is some very minute draw through the valve (diode) so yes diodes can be the issue. Pulling all the fuses and links should have killed this off. I'm going with the Alt or starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 3, 2011 Share Posted September 3, 2011 It is hard to say what caused the current drain trouble. It sounds like the drain has gone away, for the moment at least. Keep an eye on things. If there is a connector getting hot then there is a bad connection there and you may need to replace the connectors going to the heated area. You can run a seperate byass connection if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.