I don't have the fog light anymore.

However you can find similar ones at any VatoZone or similar autoparts store.

They run pretty cheap.

 

McBrat, any luck finding the article on the lowrider brat?

Finally got myself a youtube account, had my brother record while sitting passenger.

 

...I have read all over the forum about clocking the torsion bars, but there hasn't been a thread showing how to do it...

 

Found where the "clocking" takes place.

 

 

How many turns should I do? About how many turns = what amount of inches?

Anybody who has done it before please shed some wisdom.

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

That's just the adjustment point. It makes very little difference, perhaps an inch or so in height and a little softer/stiffer. I think "re-clocking" the rear torsion bars involves actually removing them from each side and rotating them slightly to a different position and re-installing them. I haven't actually done it but I know someone here has. Look up the torsion bar R & I procedure in the FSM for an idea of how to do it.

That's just the adjustment point. It makes very little difference, perhaps an inch or so in height and a little softer/stiffer. I think "re-clocking" the rear torsion bars involves actually removing them from each side and rotating them slightly to a different position and re-installing them. I haven't actually done it but I know someone here has. Look up the torsion bar R & I procedure in the FSM for an idea of how to do it.

 

correct, you have to pull the bar out slowly and rotate it, but I would never clock one again. while it will give you some lift, it alsomakes it stiffer and if you haul stuff or you wheel hard, it will end up fatiguing the bar and it will eventually fail. I've had 2 Brats and one wagon with failed bars...

If you're going to lower it you'll have to take the bars out and rotate them one or two notches then reinstall then. I should have taken some photos when I did my hatch.

No access to a FSM guys. Anyone have a link to a pdf?

So I'll be dealing with this stuff here then:






The procedure is...??

My 1600 service manual states the following in bold;

"The vehicle height can be raised by turning the outer end and inner end of the torsion bar by the same number of serration teeth in the opposite direction of the arrow mark on the outer end surface of the torsion bar. Turning the torsion bar in the arrow direction lowers the vehicle height.

The changing rate of the vehicle height is 5mm (20 in) per tooth shifted"

I assume the 1400 and 1600 rear suspensions would be the same. Hope this helps!

(^For a first gen)


http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=104319&highlight=torsion+clocking


http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74356&highlight=torsion+clocking

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

So far this has been the best description:

 

yeah all you gotta do is unbolt the 3 17mm's on the trailing arm and the 12mm that is underneath the tube near the end

 

then just tap the trailing arm out with a hammer

 

clean up the splines a bit and spray on some wd40 or anything like that to make things much easier

 

then just position the trailking arm at the height you would like and slide it back in

 

chuck the 3 17mm's back in and the 12mm at the bottom and youre done

 

and you have gotta do it oin both sides

 

 

i have done this before on a wagon... not really the best solution:confused:

 

if you go as low as it looks like your front is, then you will basically be riding on the bumpstops in the rear

 

you can get some extra suspension travel by removiong the bumpstops (they are meant to screw out, but ive never been able to)

 

a setup similar to the rear of the l series would be the go, stiffen the rear up and have short stroke shocks and you should be laughing

 

From this thread

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=592851

 

I'll start looking for some 2wd front struts now.

Did a bit of searching and got an idea of what will produce the best ride quality while lowering the ride height.

 

What struts give the lowest height?

 

ea81 turbo struts

 

or

 

ea81 fwd struts

 

 

Springs? fwd or turbo?

 

Looking at these here, love this website;

http://www.jcwhitney.com/kyb-gr-2/excel-g-shock-absorber/p2017690.jcwx?skuId=1241492&filterid=d1927y1983g996j1

 

Civic springs wont really work, the coils are not as wide. Searching for other options...

the stock strut mounts rotate 180 degrees to flip between 2wd and 4wd. not sure if it was the angle or a height difference....

Thanks to Skylar, I got some 14" pugs.

The tire size is quite different (195 vs 165) compared to the oem wheels, so they rub a bit on the front fenders when in reverse and turning at the same time.
Ride height is taller, acceleration is reduced, etc... all to be expected.
Eventually these wheels will make their home on the red wagon I'm building.
Just wanted to test them out.


During instalation; pugs on the drivers side, wagon wheels passenger.




All finished






p.s. Been busy at work, just trying to enjoy the days off when I get them. Makin money so I'll get this thing low and looking like a track car in no time.

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

i was going to say if u where going to lower the brat it would of been stupid to buy the peugeots because my 85 brat has them on it now and it only rubs on very sharp turns on front fenders with stock suspension(i need to tighten suspension which will lift it about another inch), because u have your wagon very smart buy:clap::clap:these wheels are so awesome lifts the car about 2-3inches more than stock wheels

 

looks like your brat's going together good like mine:D. u going to get a roll bar?

Its mostly the tires, not the wheels that adds all the height. The only big difference is the offset.

I think it would be kinda cool to keep the pugs on but have some 165 or 175 tires on them instead. Then I could lower the Brat with the pugs and have some good offset too.

Just daydreaming here. :-p

 

Rollbar? I've been wanting to do a rollcage...

Got my wagon wheels all painted up, masking the tires was soooooo time consuming. :-p
Went with flat white.

Just need to paint my front hubs and rear drums with high-temp black after I get off from work tomorrow. Then we will see how these turned out.

 

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

now that looks familiar so glad my dad got a tire machine and changes my tires for me:headbang:

Painted the wheel-weights too?

I see you painted them flat white, I'd suggest spraying acouple coats of flat clear over them, so the paint job lasts longer.

 

now that looks familiar so glad my dad got a tire machine and changes my tires for me:headbang:

Wish I had one of those... (jealousy)

Painted the wheel-weights too?

Yea dawg :cool: lol

I see you painted them flat white, I'd suggest spraying acouple coats of flat clear over them, so the paint job lasts longer.

No worries, I did multiple coats with light sanding inbetween.
All the clear I could find was glossy stuff, kinda defeats the purpose of flat paint...
I rarely ever see offroad, just snow in the winter. Not too worried about paint coming off.


I'd say they came out pretty fresh. :cool:

Edited January 18, 201412 yr by 6 Star

All finished

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

Just for laughs...





Cant wait to get started on the suspension...

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

I have a custom Gem Top that is flush with the roofline, just like yours. It's neat and I like better than the other factory style tops, but I think I'm taking it off because I don't like how it covers part of where the BRAT text is on the sides, and I want to be able to carry a motorcycle in the back of Brat.

 

I have a custom Gem Top that is flush with the roofline, just like yours. It's neat and I like better than the other factory style tops, but I think I'm taking it off because I don't like how it covers part of where the BRAT text is on the sides, and I want to be able to carry a motorcycle in the back of Brat.

Sorry I didn't see this sooner.

I would like to take mine off but my yard would absolutely destroy the bed.










I was surfing around the forum and found another good thread (rather the first post) relating to lowering ea81s.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82668&highlight=ea81+wagon+lowered


Just waiting patiently until I source up all I need and waiting for time off work to get things in motion. I'm also planning on getting a weber kit, this rebuilt engine is sad with the old carb still sitting on top.
The kit that The Loyale ordered looks pretty good, I may go that route.


Was doing some work around the house today, on the roof, and decided to take a picture of (some) of the heard.

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star

nice

ya I sold my Brat with that custom gem top already, ha!

I'll have to buy another some day if its rust-free enough and stick a WRX motor/trans in it, cool old cars..

Present day (10/25/12) repainted grill and headlight bezels.
 

Edited January 6, 201511 yr by 6 Star