I don't know why you couldn't.  Obviously, you have to use progressively finer grits to get the deeper scratches our from the initial coarse grits.  Getting rid of the last few marks on the heads I've done does get frustratingly slow....

I Getting rid of the last few marks on the heads I've done does get frustratingly slow....

 

ah well, that's good to know, thanks.  that sums up these things so far.

Thank you for this brilliant idea!!!

 

I could not find any "thick" glass around here but bought some 3/32 11x14 glass from Home Depot for $3.50 and added a 16x16 porcelain ceramic floor tile for $3.45.  I epoxied the glass to the ceramic tile and got a nice solid flat surface for the head surfacing.

 

Warning for those going to Home Depot, the Red 3M sandpaper that they stock has a plastic backing that MELTS when you put the contact cement on it!  They do not carry any of the old Wet and Dry paper anymore   I had to find an actual hardware store to get it at $2.00 per sheet.  The good news is starting with 150 then 220, then 320 it only took three sheet changes total.  I did both heads on each paper, cleaning and alternating heads every minute or so to keep things even.  The results were excellent!!!  Nice flat, clean, and smooth finish.  The weight of the heads does the work keeping things flat and even.  Very impressive results.

 

I used a sanding block and the Red 3M paper to block sand the surface of the cylinder block, exhaust and intake ports.  Same sequence 150-220-320.  Results look good.

 

Thank you again for sharing this setup and method.  This is the biggest DIY job I have done in quite a while and getting the heads right is a big part of making it work.

 

Terry

 

Here are some photos:

 

Edited April 1, 201510 yr by Exblade

Now that I have the time I'm planning on going through my spare ej22 and doing the head gaskets. I would like to resurface the block, but Im planning on keeping it in one piece while I resurface it. Anyone know a good way to do this? I'm thinking of similar process, but laying the glass on the block with some weights on it to give it even pressure and moving the glass instead of the block. I just want to make sure I'm not going to ruin the block by doing this. I would appreciate some input on this

For the block sude, I've just used a piece of aluminum channel a little over 12" long as a sanding block. The piece I have is 2" wide, wider would work too. Check it for flatness against the glass. Be conseious of being sure to hit the entire block evenly.

Newbie here. So I am doing the head gasket thing. At disassembly/clean up which revealed the fire ring impressions on the block that need removal, I am now facing extraction of four pin/tubes pressed into the block upper surface. Not even sure what they are called, at first I tried to extract with no damage but no go. I then reasoned they are expendable and so have been using progressively greater force, but as yet no wiggle. Next will be a slide hammer after I make a bit to fit. Heat? Since this head has been overheated already...Any comment?

BTW on the topic of lapping, the machinist rule on progressive fineness of grits, you must vary your angle of attack as you change grit. This will show which marks are from previous grit. This avoids a lot of work polishing out real deep marks that the intermediate grit missed. I personally go with circular with coarse and different angle back and forth for finer grits. The back and forth is where you tend to rock, wobble and ruin, so I save that for the less damaging finer grits. Circular is much more steady and tends to round over the edges less than linear.

Thank you for this brilliant idea!!!

 

I could not find any "thick" glass around here but bought some 3/32 11x14 glass from Home Depot for $3.50 and added a 16x16 porcelain ceramic floor tile for $3.45.  I epoxied the glass to the ceramic tile and got a nice solid flat surface for the head surfacing.

 

Warning for those going to Home Depot, the Red 3M sandpaper that they stock has a plastic backing that MELTS when you put the contact cement on it!  They do not carry any of the old Wet and Dry paper anymore   I had to find an actual hardware store to get it at $2.00 per sheet.  The good news is starting with 150 then 220, then 320 it only took three sheet changes total.  I did both heads on each paper, cleaning and alternating heads every minute or so to keep things even.  The results were excellent!!!  Nice flat, clean, and smooth finish.  The weight of the heads does the work keeping things flat and even.  Very impressive results.

 

I used a sanding block and the Red 3M paper to block sand the surface of the cylinder block, exhaust and intake ports.  Same sequence 150-220-320.  Results look good.

 

Thank you again for sharing this setup and method.  This is the biggest DIY job I have done in quite a while and getting the heads right is a big part of making it work.

 

Terry

 

Here are some photos:

 

FullSizeRender.jpgimage1.JPG

Update:

Car is running excellent.  Used Felpro MLS gaskets - really nice pieces.  Did the in car method by removing engine mount nuts and jacking the engine and moving side to side giving plenty of room to remove and install heads.  2002 Legacy L Sedan in nice condition 107000 miles bought for my son as high school car for under $1K.  I have been driving for a month and it really drives well.  Feels like it is set for another 100K miles.  This resurfacing method is the way to go for DIY.  Just take your time.  Also simple block sanding and or red scotchbrite pad works fine on the block just being careful to work evenly.  I just worked around the dowels.  They are needed to hang the heads, especially if doing in car.  My son the lacrosse star used only one hand to place the heads in while I started the head bolts

Our first Sube - really like the handling.

 

Terry

GD, thanks for this post. I'm about to dive into resurfacing my EJ22 heads. You mentioned granite. I found a couple of high-gloss-finish granite tiles. 12"x12". Seems it would work in lieu of plate glass but what are your thoughts? Also, I have a small feeler gauge but no calibrated straight edge and I'm not finding a write-up on DIY measuring for >.002" imperfections. Ideas? Thanks..

I'm frustrated. I tried this and it didn't work for me. I tried using sandpaper on a .25" thick piece of glass. I also tried with a smaller piece of glass on top of the heads. Still no luck. Glass is surprisingly not as flat as it might seem. I tried a few times with no success. Heads were still warped. Now I'm looking for a replacement head for EJ25D.

Because of all the attempts the head got too low. And when I finally called a machine shop the head was a few thousands below the deck height limet. I was told that even if the Pistons don't contact the head my timing could be a little off.

How long did you do it what grit? It takes a looong time when I've done it just to get the fire ring marks out.

@GeneralDisorder What do you do for the block side of the equation?

Nothing. You cannot resurface the block side without complete disassembly. We use the Subaru recommended 3M "white" abrasive finger wheels to clean the block deck. If you have pitting of the fire ring surface you can fill it with metal epoxy and block sand it or leave it as is. 

GD 

2 hours ago, GeneralDisorder said:

We use the Subaru recommended 3M "white" abrasive finger wheels to clean the block deck.

Got a product name or P/N we can go off of?  Hahaha

3M 07528

Hello
I really appreciate the valuable information available on this forum!
I have never done any Subaru engine repair, but intend to do so this winter.

I have 2 Foresters, '99 & '02. Both 2.5 SOHC/manual, both low miles 103K & 134K. Both need head gaskets.
 
Both are Keepers; intended to operate reliably for 100K (hopefully more) w/normal maintenance & repair.
I will R&R engines, reseal, replace timing components, clutches, & whatever else comes up.
 Have heated garage, engine hoist  & stand.

Currently, a reliable engine machine shop is over 350 miles away. So I am obtaining a quality machinist's straight edge and will flatten/resurface heads myself.

Question:
If head/s are warped, it would *seem* logical to straighten as much as possible Before removing any material to finish flattening/resurfacing.

Has anyone had an opportunity/experience straightening heads?
 Perhaps some homebrew method similar to this youtube video?
  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1z4vA8ZhLPc
 
Does it make any sense to attempt something similar on Subaru 4cyl  heads?
,,,Here's hoping your wisdom will overcome my ignorance…
Many Thanks!

P.S. Alaska Loves Subaru's !

 

Do not attempt to straighten the heads. Just leave them be and surface them flat. You can't straighten them - they don't warp like that. They lift away from the deck and are cupped in the center, not warped in a way that can be straightened.

GD

Edited November 21, 20187 yr by GeneralDisorder

Thank you for your quick response:

That eliminates a whole separate hassle.

As I get into it, I'll likely have more questions

Soo  I'll Bee  BAK!

Tnx!

rB