OK, I really need some advice...I can't get the nut on the crank pulley off. I've looked at a couple solutions from impact wrench to doing it by hand. Does anyone have some ideas? Does nut come off counter-clockwise or clockwise? I assumed it was counter- but with my luck...

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

FOr clarity what year?

 

It's probably a bolt - and is standard threading L to loosen.

2004 Impreza 2.5 SOHC 5speed...I'm very frustrated.

Engine in car? If yes, put socket on breaker bar, brace handle of breaker bar on drver side "frame," bump key and the bolt will loosen. Take care and be quick so the engine doesn't actually start-up, that's not what were going for here!

 

Engine out of car..... There's a spot on either side of the engine where you can thread a bellhousing bolt in (horizontally) and it will come up against the flywheel, or into one of the stamped holes near the torque converter mounting holes. This will effectively "lock" the engine and you can loosen the bolt without it turning.

 

Spencer

Edited October 23, 201114 yr by obk25xt

auto or manual trans?

 

there are 2 holes on the engine bell housing one on each side at the 9 and 3 oclock positions. on the auto trans engines you can slide a screwdriver in from each side and rotate the crank by hand until the screw driver ''catches'' on the flex plate. do this on both sides.

 

now you can crank on the crank bolt. both off and on.

 

or for removal, use the starter bump method. put you socket and breaker bar on the crank bolt and brace it against the frame member at the battery. then bump the starter. this will remove it. but it will not work for installing it.

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125822&highlight=screwdriver+flexplate

Edited October 23, 201114 yr by johnceggleston

Dupe post, omitted

Edited October 23, 201114 yr by ocei77

That puppy is TIGHT for a reason!!

 

Make SURE you get it TIGHT again when you're done.

 

I ave a tool to hold it - but so use the starter method when I have too. My long snap-on breaker bar jsut makes it to over by the battery tray.

Manual transmission? Can't Methusalah just put his car in gear, set the parking brake, chock the wheels, and just torque away? I'm NOT sure on this, so I'm asking.

 

Anyway, I believe that the nut on the crank pulley is torqued to 130 foot pounds. I removed the crank pulley nut on my Forester with an extra long 1/2" breaker bar from Harbor Freight and a 18" long "cheater" pipe.

 

Whatever you do, make sure that you use a torque wrench when you tighten the nut. You must use a torque wrench. Undertighening this nut is a common mistake.

This is just about fool-proof and it works on almost all cars:D Take an old belt and wrap it around the crank pulley like a strap wrench at least one turn. Hook the loop around another pulley or something strong and preferably attached to the engine and use a breaker bar to loosen the bolt. Reverse the direction of the belt wrap and use a torque wrench and some loctite to re-install.

 

Good Luck!

I'm going to caution against any method which involves holding the outer part of the pulley/harmonic balancer, such as the wrap a belt around it method.

 

It's not unknown for the outer part of the crank pulley on these cars to separate from the rubber ring coupling it to the inner hub. If you use the outer part of the pulley to keep the crank from turning while loosening the crank bolt, it's going to have far more torque applied to the rubber coupling than it ever would during normal engine operation- which could result in pulley failure later.

 

I'm not saying that it will happen, but knowing that these pulleys can be a bit weak, if there's an alternate method you can use, it might be a good idea. I've used the breaker bar/ starter method on quite a few cars with good results. It sounds dubious, but if you position everything carefully it should be OK.

 

Nathan

Good point! I wasn't thinking about the two part balancers - but the type where the belt groove section of the pulley you are using bolts directly to the center hub.

I think this is the second, or possibly third time in the history of the internet that someone has accepted a contrary opinion so graciously! :-) Cheers to you, sir!

Cheers to you for pointing out an obvious oversight:D This forum is full of talented people with lots of experience and tons of good information.

Thanks for all the input...finally got it off. I used the bump start method as a last ditch effort - put the socket and breaker bar on, turn the motor by hand until it was tight against the frame rail, through an old heavy towel over the top, closed the hood and cranked - ta da!! Awesome, now once I get it all cleaned up and the new timing belt, H2O pump, idler, etc. on...I'm hoping it'll run. Thanks again everyone! I love this forum.