Just curious.. I have to remove the plug for #2 because the tip part that goes on the plug cracked and got stuck on the plug..

 

blame it on the last owner for buying cheap wires.. that will explain why I had misfires on #2

 

Anyways my question it seems you have more room working under the car to take the plugs out?

Huh?

If what your saying is the rubber boot is torn and remains in the head. I would take pliers and Squeeze it at to the center and twist it as you pull it. They are hard sometimes

 

The other end is on the plug in the head I gotta get the plug out to get that piece off so I can put the new plug wire on.

 

I'm saying is it more room to stick my tool in above or under the motor?

I think a lot of people do plug changes from underneath. maybe more on the H6 than the H4 but, it seems to come down to personal preference.

Remove the valve cover. You'll have all the room you need and it's a good opportunity to replace the valve cover gasket.

This is not good!! Here's what happened.. that part that broke off well it's that like kinda hard rubber.. two things.. I took the valve cover off which only helped just a little but the damn effin plugs are still so recessed I can't get down to remove it.. and I can't put the new plugs on..

 

 

My only next thing is to torch a piece of metal and burn the rubber around the spark plug unless anyone can come up with something better right now.. I gotta be to work at 2 AM.

x acto knife or similar to cut rubber. Or even a hack saw blade.

 

O.

How can you fit that in the plug hole? in the meantime I just took a wire hanger and made a sharp pointy tip.. maybe with some WD-40 I can yank it out?

Hose clamp pliers work for me usually

Hose clamp pliers work for me usually

Again how do you fit that in the spark plug hole? All of the pliers I've seen are straight tipped.. I'm working on the passenger side ( lucky day) I tried my niddle nose and it was nowhere near going in

 

I'm going outside to try the coat hanger hook with some WD-40.

I have 2 kinds. Sunnax? have a pretty good bend before the "loop" part.

 

The cheap HF ones the "loop" is more straight like needle nose.

^%^&%$%$ finally came out.. Got under the car turned the hook sideways then back straight and pulled and This happened.

 

Now I hope people can understand that piece from the wire.

 

What a huge pain in the rump roast..

 

 

 

Edited December 21, 201114 yr by 1-3-2-4

I have 2 kinds. Sunnax? have a pretty good bend before the "loop" part.

 

The cheap HF ones the "loop" is more straight like needle nose.

 

I'd have to check these out seems handy to have I know I need to get a 10 mm wrench as well.

10-12-14-17 are a must on these cars but you just about rebuild the car with those four sizes. Glad you got it out!

10-12-14-17 are a must on these cars but you just about rebuild the car with those four sizes. Glad you got it out!

 

don't forget 22.

don't forget 22.

 

Yeah I guess there are a few of those huh.

Yeah I guess there are a few of those huh.

 

Anytime you need to pull the crank bolt...

Is there a chunk missing from the bottom of the spark plug tube in the head, or is that normal?

Normal

Oh, wait. I see it now.

 

I've never actually gotten my face up in there. You'd think I'd have seen it when I had the valve covers off my EJ25D, but I didn't. Bigger fish to fry I think; I was doing the timing belt.

glad my valve cover gaskets don't leak since they are only maybe about 4-5 months old.. I did them when I did the headgaskets..

 

However... i might change them out next year for some fel-pro's I used Rockauto's DNJ gaskets and I had a little seepage on the underside of the cover.

 

I did the gaskets on a friend's 2002 Forester it's fit was way better then the one I had for mine.. However his was a SOHC and my a DOHC but still the fit was better with the fel-pro.