Loyale93v Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 Ok...never done this before. I am about to Remove & Replace the Axle Cv-Joint on my '93 Loyale EA82 FWD, Auto Trans. I am reading The Mitchell/Alldata removal Instructions and "they" are instructing me to remove the Axle And Steering knuckle as a unit . Then they are instructing me to use a special tool/puller to separate the shaft from the knuckle? I have never had to do this on other vehicles. I have R & R'd many of Axle Shafts in my day, but never these older Subaru's. It also estimates that it takes 1.5 hours to complete the entire job. Does this sound correct to you guys? Need some guidance here fella's ......thanks - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
obk25xt Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 After you're proficient it takes less than 30 min..... 1. Pull cotter pin and loosen axle nut. Also, loosen lugnuts. 2. Jack and safely support car, remove wheel/tire. 3. Drive out roll pin on DOJ (end of axle @ trans). 4. Remove caliper and hang from spring w/ wire or similar. Remove axle nut, cone and flat washers, and pull off hub/rotor assembly. 5. Separate knuckle from control arm, turn steering wheel towards direction of axle being removed. 6. Pull DOJ end off trans and let it hang down. Turn steering wheel back to center. 7. Drive axle through knuckle with a dead blow hammer. Now it's out, hopefully you can do the install since you accomplished the removal. Inspect everything real good (seals, bearings, etc.) If you have any more questions, consult the USRM and use the SEARCH function.... Spencer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 thanks man I got it out and the new one in in about an hour( a little over an hour actually, but not much) I got the new axle from my local NAPA parts Supplier - get the good stuff! It seemed to fit ok. During the job I noticed the lower ball joint is in rough shape. I am going to have to do that very soon. Its not safe the way it is. The only real trouble I had was fitting the new roll pin into the hole of the new axle. THEN, I took her for a test drive....something isn't right ... it makes a mild clicking sound under acceleration...? I know it was installed correctly. I mean ...hey..., I work on cars for a living! I'm an ASE Tech.[my only concern was needing a puller to remove axle- a tool I didn't want to buy for one job]. So it makes a mild clicking during steady acceleration. Strange. The new part, well the re-maned part fit OK. everything lined up Ok land I even used my torque wrench on every nut & bolt- Looksie...it was by the booksie.. any ideas lady's and gentleman's? And oh.. I need a good place to buy the lower ball joint control arm. And I need a spot for the accessory drive belt tensioner pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I don't take the caliper and rotor off. I leave the parking brake on to hold the rotor in place, then remove the four bolts that hold the rotor to the hub and pull the hub off. Leaving the rotor held in place by the parking brake. I suppose it doesn't REALLY batter which way you do it.. just a different method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 maybe the fresh axle is putting more stress on the other axle i had this problem not even 3 days ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted January 23, 2012 Author Share Posted January 23, 2012 maybe the fresh axle is putting more stress on the other axle i had this problem not even 3 days ago Yeah maybe....not sure.. something is definately not right though. I do know that that the lowe ball joint is in tuff shape. It needs replacement. But I dont think that should make a racheting sound during acceleration.....right? BTW: can I buy just the Ball Joint? Or is it only purchased as an control arm-ball joint assembly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 Your problem is the NAPA axle. Its a rebuilt, right? 99% of them are not up to standards and this is why its clicking. And yes, the lower ball joint can be bought separately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What kind of axle is it? If it's an aftermarket one it's probably just bad out of the box and clicking. I put in an aftermarket axle about 5000 miles ago on my car. It's clicked since the minute I put it in there. They're junk. This one was a new napa maxdrive one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 What was the condition of the cone washer and hub mating surfaces? Being that you haven't dealt with one of these before, and the rareity of mechanical shaft locking devices in automotive applications I would put a high probability of the cone washer being damged (most on the road are) and of you overlooking the mechanical principles of the cone washer, and how to properly inspect and install it. ASE certified or not - you don't often see shaft locking systems of that type in automotive applications. They are used extensively in industrial machines but not on cars. I would say that 99 times out of 100 when people think an axle is "bad out of the box" it's really the cone washer. I've installed hundreds of these EA axles and I've seen VERY few that were bad out of the box. Can't think of a single example where it was clearly a bad reman. Not that it doesn't happen and NAPA parts *are* complete garbage, but it's rare. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I would say that 99 times out of 100 when people think an axle is "bad out of the box" it's really the cone washer. I've installed hundreds of these EA axles and I've seen VERY few that were bad out of the box. Can't think of a single example where it was clearly a bad reman. Not that it doesn't happen and NAPA parts *are* complete garbage, but it's rare. GD I agree that inspecting the condition of the cone washer, and cleaning up any burrs or lips on it, is important. BUT.....I have gotten MANY remaned, and even more "new"(china) axles that made clicking noise out of the box. I pulled a few of the bad ones apart for inspection. Not just EA ones, but some really bad EJ ones too (had to try 5 axles by the time all said and done with my mom's H6 outback.) No cone washers on EJs so I am sure that wasn't the issue. Worst 2: 1) inner joint had 5 balls correct size, and one visibly smaller than others. Noisy as a one man band. (EA81 "new") 2) Inner joint had an EXTRA 7th ball rattling inside "under" the joint inside the cup. Made terrible clicking, and bangs when the suspension compressed. (91 Legacy, reman) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 I agree that inspecting the condition of the cone washer, and cleaning up any burrs or lips on it, is important. Cleaning them up is not sufficient. If you really look at how they work - any loss of material on the OD of the cone washer will prevent them from properly gripping the axle shaft as they are designed to do once forced into the matching cone of the hub. ANY damage is cause for replacement and that is the ONLY acceptable course IMO. BUT.....I have gotten MANY remaned, and even more "new"(china) axles that made clicking noise out of the box..... That totally sucks man. Must be your suppliers down there. I get almost all my axles from Discount Import Parts - a local supplier that carries EMPI and OPParts axles. I have not had any issues with either. I beleive that both of them get their joint components from GCK in China. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) What was the condition of the cone washer and hub mating surfaces? Being that you haven't dealt with one of these before, and the rareity of mechanical shaft locking devices in automotive applications I would put a high probability of the cone washer being damged (most on the road are) and of you overlooking the mechanical principles of the cone washer, and how to properly inspect and install it. ASE certified or not - you don't often see shaft locking systems of that type in automotive applications. They are used extensively in industrial machines but not on cars. I would say that 99 times out of 100 when people think an axle is "bad out of the box" it's really the cone washer. I've installed hundreds of these EA axles and I've seen VERY few that were bad out of the box. Can't think of a single example where it was clearly a bad reman. Not that it doesn't happen and NAPA parts *are* complete garbage, but it's rare. GD If the cone washer comment is aimed at me, I have brand new ones in there. The washer was all messed up, napa sells them for $5 or something. Also, my other axle (replaced both at the same time) has been spewing grease out of the DOJ. The boot isn't sealed properly to the cup. And yes I was very careful of the boots when I installed the axle, I know they're delicate. Edited January 23, 2012 by 987687 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 23, 2012 Share Posted January 23, 2012 (edited) Naw it was aimed at the OP, not you. I generally assume that people familair with the EA axle routine have figured out the cone washer dance after being here a while. The OP states he is unfamilair so I thought it prudent to point it out. You have that NAPA part number? GD Edited January 23, 2012 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Naw it was aimed at the OP, not you. I generally assume that people familair with the EA axle routine have figured out the cone washer dance after being here a while. The OP states he is unfamilair so I thought it prudent to point it out. You have that NAPA part number? GD I have it written down on my shop computer. I've spent way to much time in there today, so tomorrow when I'm finishing some stuff up I'll post it up here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I have it written down on my shop computer. I've spent way to much time in there today, so tomorrow when I'm finishing some stuff up I'll post it up here. That would be really great. I've never been able to find the cone washer's outside of the dealership. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I have seen quite a few cheap, aftermarket axles causing noise and vibrations after install. I usually use OEM or Empi at work but have used OPParts axles before as well. Napa axles are usually the worst from my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87.5ea82txt Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 Now you guys that don't seperate the balljoint, are you removing the bolt that the lower arm pivots on, or are you removing the bar that some people like to extend on their lifted rigs. I removed the lower balljoint on my car and am having a hard time getting the lower arm to go down far enough to get balljoint back into it. I'm also having trouble getting the doj to slide the rest of the way on the shaft to give me the space I need to get the hub to move in far enough to get it over the hole in the lower arm once I do get it pried down. The swaybar has already been removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 I remove the 10mm bolt that holds the inner end of the control arm on the car. No dicking with the ball joint that way. And it gives plenty of room to get the axle in and out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted January 24, 2012 Share Posted January 24, 2012 That would be really great. I've never been able to find the cone washer's outside of the dealership. GD So I went in to pick it up today, the (slightly incompetent) parts counter guy was all proud he'd found and ordered me the right part. I said it's too small.... Owner puts the number in the computer, Justy part... So no, napa still doesn't have these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted January 24, 2012 Author Share Posted January 24, 2012 GD- I've read what you stated about the cone washer , As a matter of fact I do understand how imperitive it is that it is in good shape and with in tolerace- however, In this case, i am more apt to lean towards junk Napa part being the culprit. Im at work now so I will have to get back to you later with more info....working on a volvo with a cracked manifold- thanks TTYL -Loyale93v Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I remove the bolt that pinches the lower ball joint into the knuckle. Sometimes I can't either get the bolt out or it snaps so I remove the ball joint from the control arm. I get removing the control arm bolt at the crossmember in areas with lots of rust though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 In this case, i am more apt to lean towards junk Napa part being the culprit. Certainly could be the case. I just wanted to insure that we covered all the bases and the cone washer is very often overlooked as a source of noises, etc. When the castle nut continues to loosen no matter how many times you tighten it - that's usually a cone washer failure. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 Certainly could be the case. I just wanted to insure that we covered all the bases and the cone washer is very often overlooked as a source of noises, etc. When the castle nut continues to loosen no matter how many times you tighten it - that's usually a cone washer failure. GD I will absolutely double check the cone washer.....thank you. Meanwhile.....I discovered two other issues. # 1)Lower ball joint, same side as replaced axle. 2) A/C Belt tensioner Pulley failure I called Subaru Parts Dept. on both. They quoted me $147.55 on tensioner & $38.99 for the Ball-Joint. Can you reccomend any after market places to obtain the A/C Belt tensioner? Thats alot of money for a small little pulley. and to top it off they said they found one in Tennesse and its four days away - its a discontinued part I guess. I tried all the local spots and they have no listing. Aswell, all the local guys have a ball joint listed but its the wrong one- I think. Doesn't the ball joint press fit into the control arm and attatch to the knuckle with a pinch bolt? The ones Napa/Carquest have show a stud/castle nut on one side and a pinch bolt set up on the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 Need to get out of that ASE parts-hanging-monkey mentality. Install a new bearing in the AC belt tensioner. Should be about $5. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale93v Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Need to get out of that ASE parts-hanging-monkey mentality. Install a new bearing in the AC belt tensioner. Should be about $5. GD haha! yeah I hear ya. And who is gonna sell me the bearing? a machine shop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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